I walked on many aluminum boats and it is not normal. I would want it fixed correctly and that doesn't involve mallets and screws.
I do not think the response you got was acceptable.
I walked on many aluminum boats and it is not normal. I would want it fixed correctly and that doesn't involve mallets and screws.
I do not think the response you got was acceptable.
Joe Galada - Tamaqua, PA
2004 Ranger 521VX - Yamaha 250 SHO
I think when the manufacturer suggest hitting the spot with a mallet a couple times to get the pop out there may be a problem and I dont mean with the boat. Unreal
Although it may not be the answer you or someone else was looking for but a least they contacted him. I owned a Bass Pro product for a few years, purchased it used and tried contacting Tracker, Nitro, Bass Pro though emails, phone calls and even sent a letter to get info I needed for the boat. Guess what? I'm still waiting for them to contact me and that as 2 boats and almost 20 years ago!!
Joe Galada - Tamaqua, PA
2004 Ranger 521VX - Yamaha 250 SHO
"Sometimes with temperature change you get this. The dealer usually just has to hit that spot with a mallet a couple times and it takes the pop out of it. Worst case they put a #10 Flat screw in the floor where you cannot see it. Easy fix."
It would have been better to not have replied at all.
From the response it sounds like this is not the first time they are seeing this issue. Maybe Vexus can chime in here and let us know if it was determined what is causing this issue and how is it being addressed in the new builds? That would go a lot further to silence the negative comments then the mallet response.
I will be in the market at some point for a new boat and this would keep me from ordering a Vexus aluminum even though I love everything else about the boats.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3194025&rt=rud
if you can get under it maybe try this. we use it on cars for door skins an stuff to keep them from popping on the intrusion beams. need a special gun to apply it but may be able to mix it by hand an glob it in there. or get a similar product
Probably should have used 125 alum instead of 100 gauge.
I”m just a dumb engineer but in my opinion I’d drill the sheet metal and inject resin to fill the void. The screw idea just bugs me as a half assed fix. I also wouldn’t be fixing things on a 50k rig with a mallet!
2006 Ranger Z20 / 225HP Merc Pro XS
What's half a**** about putting a screw in it? Please explain.
I'm not an engineer, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night....
2018 Ranger RT178
Yamaha 75hp
Atlas Micro Jacker
80lb Minn Kota Ultrex
When attempting to fix a bulge or delamination mechanical fasteners can “chase” the bulge over to a tighter area. Subsequent foot pressure or other weight could end up creasing. Picture a bulge secured tightly around the perimeter and then picture securing at the center point. You end up with four smaller / tighter bulges that still have voids. You’ll never get the sheet metal back in full contact with the deck substrate. You also end up impartimg horizontal shear forces to the perimeter edges. We typically address these by filling the void via epoxy or resin injection thus re-establishing full contact to substrate without imparting more stress.
Hope this helps.
On a side note, these things just bug me because we as boat owners will put with insane things sometimes. If you took your 55k truck to the dealer with a sheet metal bulge and the dealer said”we’ve got this, we’ll just run some sheet metal screws in there” most of us would flip out. Or better yet, imagine them saying “don’t worry, we’ll just have sling blade here beat on it with a hammer”. In most cases violence would probably ensue! But if it’s a 55k boat, it’s all good. I don’t intend any this to antagonize, or in any way dis Vexus. Just my observations after 37 years of boat ownership of various brands.
Last edited by ericm; 03-24-2019 at 12:32 PM.
2006 Ranger Z20 / 225HP Merc Pro XS
2018 Ranger RT178
Yamaha 75hp
Atlas Micro Jacker
80lb Minn Kota Ultrex
Well, on the suggestion of another fellow who sent me a pm, I contacted Keith Daffron who is the president at Vexus. I sent him a video of the problem and he called me. He was nice and said that this problem is inherent with their aluminum boats. Because the rod locker is underneath, apparently it makes it susceptible to this issue. He confirmed that the solution involves screwing in a #10 screw into the deck and into the support beam under. I have to remove the foot pedal tray to find the beam. He said he’ll send me a video on Monday to show me how to do it. I could take it into the dealer but if it’s just a screw, I think I can handle it. He said if it bulges on the other side when I screw it down, I gotta whack it with a mallet. It isn’t ideal but I guess us early adopters take a risk when we buy from new companies or buy new models. Or maybe I just got unlucky. Seems like other 1980 owners have had similar issues while others haven’t. Either way, I’ll try to fix it and let you all know how it goes.
On on another note, the compression lock on my middle rod locker was placed too close to the edge and when it closes, the pin on the underside of the compression latch makes contact with the bubble trim and when it turns, it chews up the bubble trim which is supposed to make that tight seal. Kind of a bummer but it’s not that big of a deal I guess. But you would think they have a standard distance from the edge when drilling the hole to install those compression latches. I provided Keith with the feedback, hopefully it helps them improve on future builds.
I really like the boat. My last boat was a 2012 alumacraft so this is a serious upgrade but for spending 46k after tax (paid cash for it), I don’t think it’s too much to ask to have the deck not pop and bulge. Oh well. I did put a 7 pounder in it last week and that’s what really matters.
Here’s a video to the problem in case you’re curious.
Great to hear they reached out to you but the resolution is a band-aid not a real fix but it's probably all that can be done at this point without tearing up the entire deck.
If I paid 47K I would want it fixed correctly and I wouldn't care if the boat needed to go back to the manufacturer but that's me. That defect (and that's what it is) would bug the crap out of me until the day I sold the boat.
I hope their fix in production involves using thicker aluminum.
Last edited by Grizzly; 03-24-2019 at 07:42 AM.
That deck sure seems thin for aluminum.I thought the decks was fiberglass?
Wow! That gives quite a lot. It doesn't seem like there's a brace under there to put a screw in. They definitely need to make a design change to correct that on future boats coming off the assembly line. That would drive me crazy!
Last edited by Pipercub; 03-24-2019 at 07:59 AM.
2018 Ranger RT178
Yamaha 75hp
Atlas Micro Jacker
80lb Minn Kota Ultrex
Wow! after seeing the video and the oil canning effect on the deck- that's hard to take on a new boat. The solution to me would be thicker material on the deck just sayin.
Geez... that is bad! I can't imagine that a single screw will help that at all. You are going to end up with multiple smaller bubbles on either side. It will never lay flat and supported that way. Poor "fix" recommendation from Vexus