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  1. #1
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    I found original info on my 1990 ProCraft /Fisher 190

    I was surprised to find supporting operator and service related manuals for my boat in the glove box, all this time I've owned it.. It didn't include, anything about the boat itself. I only see the Mercury operator and service locations manual for the Mercury 150, a Motor Guide operating and battery diagram to hook it up. But what blew me away, was a copy of the original certified check for $5000 dated March of 1990 with the owner from Indianapolis, buying from the dealer in Kokomo. The boat itself was only $5000 then? That couldn't be right, could it?

    No boat ownership manual was there to describe how the systems worked. The live well, automatic vs manual, is self explanatory.There wasn't any sort of manual showing how to set up the charging system for the TM batteries while you are running down the water. I've now dug into the front bow control panel. The trolling motor I bought wasn't a 12/24vdc system. so I just disconnected the TM receptacle from one of the batteries, and wired an after market TM plug /receptacle in another spot next to the panel. Now that I see the feasibility (if I understand it right) of charging the TM batteries while you are running the outboard, I want to reverse the changes, to make the charge /run switch work again. I just wasn't familiar with how this system actually worked. All the flat paddle switches need to be replaced to repair the corrosion. I'm still going to continue using my Minn Kota All Terrain 55#. It doesn't have the bigger plug for 12vdc/24vdc system receptacle. The smaller circle receptacle for the plug spades I'm using will be connected with a jumper wire from my added receptacle to reconnect the 12/24vdc receptacle on the control panel. I'm kinda thinking if I don't have a TM with 12/24vdc selection, I wouldn't have to do anything other than the jumper connecting my 12vdc receptacle in order for the charge/run switch to work with my TM receptacle. I think it shuts off the voltage by the Charge/Run switch to the OEM receptacle, which will disconnect voltage to my added smaller circle receptacle. From what my VOM showed me the bigger OEM 12/24 vdc receptacle is showing 2 red 12vdc, and 1 black ground. What say you? I mean I don't want it to burn up.
    Biggest problem I've seen so far is finding sealed waterproof paddle switches with DpDt and off/on/off momentary and just SpSt on/off switches with the proper amp strength for the system. I am currently looking. Replacing with new, will hopefully make the beast come alive on the bow controls!

  2. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #2
    The charge run switch is from the days when you plugged a charger into the bow plug to charge the batteries. You don’t want to do it that way.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  3. Member
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    #3
    Well, see, I assumed an entirely different scenario. That's what you get when you assume. Ok, then that isnt a problem. I already have the TM batteries paralleled and hooked to a 2 connecton to an onboard MinnKota charger. So the boat is plugged at home, and the batteries are hot for TM, as well as the cranking battery. That'll save some time. Might as well, but on it up as is. I have done the live well from the steering wheel as well as the trim tilt before I go to the casting deck.

  4. Member
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    #4
    Make sure to check your voltage. I have that system right now on a 89 396 Javelin that is showroom condition bought new. That 12/24 system has 2 hot leads from 2 batteries be careful not to burn up 12 volt motor.

  5. Member
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    #5
    When I found the Motor Guide instruction booklet which included the battery diagram and the pin connections, I finally understood why the 24vdc was in the boat. VOM confirmed the voltage was correct to my after market round plug. I think I'm good. I dont believe having the 12vdc receptical will be causing any problem electrically. The wire is the same size as the system wiring from batteries. While I have it open, I'm going mount a 12vdc outlet for running a fish finder up on bow. I have to get it done quickly, Crappie time is coming!

  6. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by hankll View Post
    When I found the Motor Guide instruction booklet which included the battery diagram and the pin connections, I finally understood why the 24vdc was in the boat. VOM confirmed the voltage was correct to my after market round plug. I think I'm good. I dont believe having the 12vdc receptical will be causing any problem electrically. The wire is the same size as the system wiring from batteries. While I have it open, I'm going mount a 12vdc outlet for running a fish finder up on bow. I have to get it done quickly, Crappie time is coming!
    You don’t want to run a fish finder from a trolling motor battery. Interference is virtually guaranteed.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  7. Member
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    #7
    Ahh, Now that's something I didn't know (among all the other things I didn't know for this boat). What if I tapped the Nav bow light power? The fishfinder wouldn't draw very much amps and would like be switched off when I pull TM up to run the outboard.
    Last edited by hankll; 03-09-2019 at 01:28 PM.

  8. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by hankll View Post
    Ahh, Now that's something I didn't know (among all the other things I didn't know for this boat). What if I tapped the Nav bow light power? The fishfinder wouldn't draw very much amps and would like be switched off when I pull TM up to run the outboard.
    It probably won’t work. Most people end up running larger gauge wire to the battery to avoid the units shutting down when you crank the outboard. The factory wiring just doesn’t cut it.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  9. Member
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    #9
    Hankll, NADA shows the original MSRP around 15k which sounds about right. The 5K may have been his down payment.
    2005 Triton TR-196
    1990 ProCraft ProCaster 180

  10. Member
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    #10
    OK, that's probably right.