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  1. #1
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    Another wiring question

    So I need to run a couple more power lines for my 360, ethernet switch, and a hydorwave. I was going to attach this to the battery with https://www.boatid.com/blue-sea-syst...-mpn-5024.html, and run the wires from there. I will have a switch on the 360 and the hydrowave is switched. I was going to run 3 sets of either 10 or 12 gauge wire in loom to each additional unit. I was reading in an earlier thread about twisting the wires to reduce interference (http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=965787). I have 2 questions 1) should I twist the wires, and 2) can I run the 3 pairs through 1 piece of loom or will that cause interference. TIA for any responses
    Last edited by fishintroop; 03-07-2019 at 01:55 PM.

  2. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #2
    The only problem I see is that those units will always have power to them. They may have a slight draw even when off. You'd be better adding an additional fuse block after the breaker switch separate of the "Daisy Chain" power block under the dash and front panel, to the front and then add in your extra electronics there. Then you can turn ALL of the power off with the breaker switch. This block you show is where you would wand your Auto bilge pump to connect. That way, it always has power should it need to come on.
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    #3
    Thanks. So now it gets clearer. There is an additional buss in the front ran from the dash. I guess I can expand that because I don’t have enough openings left. I’ll just have to use the inline fuses.

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    #4
    I think what wmitch2 was saying is replace the buss block with a fuse block. Something like this b6252d9e-36d4-429e-bbb2-c2474bc874f5_1.4378dfe853855a4783f277f7fdf17cf2.jpeg

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    #5
    ^^^^ gotcha

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    #6
    Thanks. So now it gets clearer. There is an additional buss in the front ran from the dash. I guess I can expand that because I don’t have enough openings left. I’ll just have to use the inline fuses.
    Last edited by fishintroop; 03-09-2019 at 09:49 PM.

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    #7
    https://www.datapanel.com/product/ps...onnector-ip67/

    I like this option instead of the Bluesea fuse panel.

  8. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by fishintroop View Post
    Thanks. So now it gets clearer. There is an additional buss in the front ran from the dash. I guess I can expand that because I don’t have enough openings left. I’ll just have to use the inline fuses.

    No, you want to ADD an additional fuse block directly from the BATTERY, not tied into an already ran terminal block. I ran 12 ga from the battery to the new block, then 14 ga from each graph to the new fuse block.
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by wmitch2 View Post
    No, you want to ADD an additional fuse block directly from the BATTERY, not tied into an already ran terminal block. I ran 12 ga from the battery to the new block, then 14 ga from each graph to the new fuse block.
    How do you shutoff the power to that block? Did you run another switch?

  10. Member einsteins's Avatar
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    #10
    I did the same thing
    GraphLocker.jpg

    I will have both Solix Graphs and the Network switch connecting to that fuse box.
    Used 10/2 from the battery to the fuse box and 14/2 from the fuse box to bow graph.

    Not sure if the 5 port switch will have to much of a drain on battery since the fuse box is not switched. I can move to a switched connection if necessary.

    Will post pic once I finish up.
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    #11
    Wire the positive wire to a Perko cutoff switch at the main battery in the bilge. Run the positive from the Perko switch to the Fuse block. I have everything on that big perko switch (except trolling motor, that's on a separate circuit breaker/switch). That way when you turn off the Perko switch all your electronics will be off.

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    #12
    Thanks for all the info guys! Gotta get this done now.

  13. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by fishintroop View Post
    How do you shutoff the power to that block? Did you run another switch?
    No, I tied into the hot side of the breaker off of the starting battery. So when you flip off the breaker, the fuse block goes off too.
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by wmitch2 View Post
    you want to ADD an additional fuse block directly from the BATTERY.... I ran 12 ga from the battery to the new block

    I tied into the hot side of the breaker off of the starting battery.
    fishintroop,

    Fuse block power run needs to not be directly from BATTERY....all wiring must be protected by a breaker or fuse.

    If tied to the hot side of the breaker as stated, the breaker when flipped would have no ability to remove power to the block. Breaker would not then protect the circuit if it were shorted.

    Connect block source power to the load side (not the hot side) of the breaker (and only after the existing wiring and breaker size have been assessed and determined to have the capacity to safely power the newly added loads).
    Last edited by Lou r Pitcher; 03-19-2019 at 12:01 PM.

  15. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Lou r Pitcher View Post
    If tied to the hot side of the breaker, the breaker when flipped would have no ability to remove power to the block.

    Block power needs to connect to the load side (not hot side) of the breaker (and only after the wiring and breaker size have been assessed and determined to have the capacity to power the additional loads).
    Correct, I meant to say the "On Side" of the breaker.
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    #16
    so I think this is what I am readingcrude.jpg

  17. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by fishintroop View Post
    so I think this is what I am readingcrude.jpg
    YEP !!
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    Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
    Troll Bridge / V-T2 Vents