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  1. #1
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    Battery selector switch question

    Hey all,
    I searched around on this topic and I'm still a bit unclear so I'll throw out this question. I have a 2017 Tracker 195 with a Merc 150 four stroke. I am upgrading to a 24v trolling motor, and I'm installing two new graphs. I'm also upgrading my onboard charger to a three bank variety.

    I want to install a battery selector switch that allows me to cut off all peripherals when the boat is not in use. When it's in the garage I'll keep the charger plugged in, but when the boat is away from the garage I need to minimize any draw on the batteries as much as possible. I also assume that the graphs will be drawing from the cranking battery, so I want the ability to switch to the trolling motor batteries to start my engine in the event the cranking battery is depleted while on the water.

    I'm considering the Perko medium duty switch with Off/1/ALL/2 selector positions. I wondering if my assumptions are correct, and if so, how do I properly wire up the selector switch to accomplish my goal, and still permit me to charge all three batteries off the onboard charging system.

    Thanks in advance for your help.

  2. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #2
    You don't want to do it that way. Those kinds of switches don't switch the negative side which makes it a requirement that your cranking battery and TM batteries share a ground and that means you can't have a 24V string on the switch.

    Best setup is to keep the battery systems completely separate and use jumper cables or just physically swap the batteries if you need to start.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  3. Member
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    #3
    This should be what you're looking for. It is for 36V so just eliminate bat 3 and that jumper from bat 2 to 3.

    battery wiring selector switch.jpg
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  4. Member
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    #4
    I have the exact same setup and wired like the diagram from Jonestrollingmotor, although my 24v jumper is at the plug (4-wire system) and not at the batteries.

    Works like a charm. I used a Blue Seas switch. Just my preference, always liked them more than the Perko ones.

    My only complaint, really a first world issue to be sure lol, is that since I have everything running to the switch when it is OFF no juice to anything (except automatic bilge, still wired to the battery). So I have to get in the boat and turn the switch to 1 (normal starting/house battery) or 2 (one of the trolling batteries) to trim the engine up or down. Got spoiled all those years with my large I/O sport boat with separate trim system that I could leave wired to the batteries so I could trim the outdrive without having to turn anything else on.

  5. Member
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonestrollingmotor View Post
    This should be what you're looking for. It is for 36V so just eliminate bat 3 and that jumper from bat 2 to 3.

    battery wiring selector switch.jpg
    JonesTrollingMotor, can you post the 24V version of this wiring diagram? I know it’s just eliminate the middle trolling battery but still would like to see it. Thanks!

  6. Member
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by BoilermakerRT178 View Post
    JonesTrollingMotor, can you post the 24V version of this wiring diagram? I know it’s just eliminate the middle trolling battery but still would like to see it. Thanks!
    24V version
    battery wiring selector switch.jpg
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  7. Member Topwater All Day's Avatar
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    #7
    Hey John, what if I had a 24v system like above, but also added a fourth battery just for my electronics? How would that look for installing one of these switches?

    Thanks!
    Rob Ridge
    www.folsombassteam.com
    2018 Nitro Z19 Pro, 200 Mercury Pro XS


  8. Member
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    #8
    Depends on what you wanted to do with the battery. If it's only for accessories, then you wouldn't want to connect it to that circuit and charge separately. If you're thinking about charging it at the same time as charging a trolling battery, cranking battery then I wouldn't put that much a single charge bank. You could also not wire to the trolling battery as shown in the drawing and wire to the accessory battery. In that case, one charge lead would charge the cranking and the accessory, then a lead each for the trolling motor batteries.
    John
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  9. Member Topwater All Day's Avatar
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    #9
    Thanks John!

    The fourth battery is just for my graphs and other electronics that are not part of the boat electrical system. I had the room in the bilge for it and since i run 3 large Humminbird graphs, it keeps my starting battery from being over worked. I am using a Minn Kota 4-bank charger to charge all four batteries and am simply disconnecting the power to the graphs and unplugging the trolling motor at the bow when I charge.

    However, I hadn't thought that some of the smaller electronics (Humminbird Ethernet hub for example) don't have a way to be disconnected when I'm charging, so that's why I was thinking about putting the switch in.

    Thanks again for the help!
    Rob Ridge
    www.folsombassteam.com
    2018 Nitro Z19 Pro, 200 Mercury Pro XS