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  1. #1
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    Current thinking on direct wiring of Lowrance units to battery

    Going to direct wire my bow HDS12 and console HDS twin 9 to battery, after reading a lot little confused. Can someone please tell me what is the current best way..boat is a 2015 Ranger 521c

    Thank you in advance

  2. Member
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    #2
    I have 3 HDS in my boat - 1 at bow and 2 at console. Made for long messy wiring runs connecting all of them to the battery.

    So I added a Blue Seas 5025 bladed fuse panel under drivers console. Available from Amazon or Powerwerx, etc. Separates graph power wiring from boat's wiring harness by using heavier wire and makes for much cleaner installation and if ever need to check/replace fuse will be much easier.

    I got the idea here:
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=174227

    Scroll down to entry "Adding a dedicated fuse block to run your electronics" by MarkNY dated 03-15-2013 almost at bottom of page.

  3. Member
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    #3
    What 184 said!

  4. Member
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    #4
    I did the same. I run 10 gauge tinned wire from the battery cutoff switch (also ground wire from battery) in the bilge to the Blue Seas 5025 I installed inside my starboard rod box. From the fuse box I ran 12 gauge tinned wire directly to the Graphs.

  5. Member
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    Jul 2011
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    #5
    If you want something simpler and less expensive use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Using the five socket, you have a connection point for the wire coming from battery, going to bow, and 3 accessories. Once I strip the wire I coat with anti-oxidant before inserting. If you decide to go by the thread referenced above, I would do two things differently. I wouldn't coat contact points with dielectric grease. It is an insulator. Use anti-oxidant instead. If needed, I would extend the graph wires with AWG-12 or 14 instead of the same size that came with the graph.
    D-Dubya


    2003 Skeeter ZX225
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  6. Member
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    #6
    thanks guys keep it coming...what about the nema network, just leave it wired as found?

  7. Member
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    #7
    do you think using heavier wire, from the bus to the unit would then need a in line fuse to protect the unit? is it better than using the regular 16ga size of the power cord and not having to add a additional in line fuse?

  8. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #8
    Ran 10 ga from battery, Pos thru the breaker and Neg direct to fuse block and then 14 ga from each unit to the fuse block.
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    #9
    thanks for pics wmitch2, did you fuse at the units also?

  10. Member
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Lykins Tr21 View Post
    thanks for pics wmitch2, did you fuse at the units also?
    The Blue Seas block does that already. No need for additional fuses.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by wmitch2 View Post
    Ran 10 ga from battery, Pos thru the breaker and Neg direct to fuse block and then 14 ga from each unit to the fuse block.
    Be sure the circuit breaker is "Ignition Protected" and mounted close as possible to the battery post.

  12. Member
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    #12
    I ask because as I understand it when we attach 2 diff size wires together, (ex 14 ga to power cord which is 18ga) we created a spot where fuse may be needed , due to ? change in resistance?? again I am just noting this from other posts...

    My current dilemma is to run larger wire to bow unit from my block or to stay with same size as the power cord. My 2 goals are to have little voltage drop, and accessible fuses.

  13. Member
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    #13
    When connecting two different size wires you still only need one fuse. The size of fuse used is determined by the smaller wire size and the smaller wire should be adequate size to power the unit. Whatever size fuse is recommended for the unit is the size of fuse that should be used

  14. Member
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Lykins Tr21 View Post
    I ask because as I understand it when we attach 2 diff size wires together, (ex 14 ga to power cord which is 18ga) we created a spot where fuse may be needed , due to ? change in resistance?? again I am just noting this from other posts...

    My current dilemma is to run larger wire to bow unit from my block or to stay with same size as the power cord. My 2 goals are to have little voltage drop, and accessible fuses.
    I don't think that splicing 2 slightly different wire sizes together inherently creates a need for a fuse at that location. The very small change in wire resistance at the splice with the wire lengths, wire size, and graph load currents we deal with in wiring bass boats just shouldn't matter. It just may be a convenient point to insert an inline fuse if a fuse panel/block isn't used.

    I used #14 AWG marine wire spliced onto the graph's power cable for front unit. The spliced #14 goes to the console fuse panel. Short run of wire so the extra wire length isn't a problem at the wire length and current drawn by front unit. #10 AWG marine wires from battery to fuse panel. Graphs on console wired directly to fuse panel using graph's power cables with no extra wires spliced.

  15. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Lykins Tr21 View Post
    thanks for pics wmitch2, did you fuse at the units also?
    No, only the fuse at the fuse block. It's better to have the fuse as close to the power source and no additional fuse is needed.
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
    G Loomis Rods / Shimano Reels
    Raymarine / MinnKota Ultrex
    Garmin / Live Scope Plus
    Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
    Troll Bridge / V-T2 Vents