Change the trigger with the stator?

[snapshotmd]

I'm getting ready to replace the stator on the motor in my signature. AFAIK, this is the first time the stator has been replaced. Does it make sense to change out the trigger while I'm at it? Or am I just wasting money?

The reason I'm changing the stator is I have an issue with my motor bogging down/momentary power loss when the motor gets warm. Can the trigger also be suspect?

[lpugh]

check the idle relief ports they are probably due to be cleaned

Props to big for that setup, 25 tempest or reworked 24 Fury. I would bet you only pulling about 5700 RPM if pad to prop height is set correctly at 3.5 to 3.75 inches
I am very intimate with the combination you have

[JOE54]

+1 ^^^^^^^^ bet not even 5700 /wager stator not problem also/get a known good 25 TEMPEST take 2 plugs out leave one large hole plug in/make sure spark arm is moving to full advance to stop with no lag time/ report back

[silverbullet02]

How is the holeshot before it gets good and warm? How long have you ran the setup and is this a recent issue that started? If you do end up replacing stator I wouldn’t bother with trigger, those don’t go bad very often. If it holeshots worse when warm but runs ok once you get going it very well could be the low side of the stator getting weak.

[OnTRAK]

Have you done a resistance (ohm) test on the stator to see if it is bad, or are you just throwing parts at it?

[Bruce2]

Diaphram fuel pump will cause a bogging issue as well also not pumping up the primer bulb before every start will also cause a bogging issue.

[EuropeanAM]

Several good points above.

Replacing the stator does not "mandate" you replace the trigger. Replacing the CORRECT component is, however, mandatory to solving the problem.

Do you see melted, discolored or burnt bobbins in the stator? Ohms tests OR DVA Voltage Tests failing, or outside of acceptable parameters?