Verify lower unit

[Anthonysjo]

Guys can you help identify the gear case that is off my 07 250 pro xs with SN# 1B473522. image.jpg

Got the parts from Don and Rhonda to do the annual service and want to make sure I fill the LU properly.

[hooken203]

Fill it until it runs out the vent. Let a couple ounces drain back out put the plugs back in and your done.

[fishnfireman]

Fill it until it runs out the vent. Let a couple ounces drain back out put the plugs back in and your done.

What he said ^^

Been my experience that because of how there cast, it's near impossible to determine how many oz each one will hold.
32 oz may overfill one, and not fill the next.

[bass.man65]

Fill it until it runs out the vent. Let a couple ounces drain back out put the plugs back in and your done.

This, Also it's a GEN 1 TM

[Anthonysjo]

Thanks guys. Any one have any tips on getting the LU to slide up the final bit. I have followed Sherm's tips for the water pump replacement and when trying to get the LU back up using method #1 without a helper, I am able to get the shaft engaged and the studs just sticking through the LU with the shift shaft aligned but that is about as far as it wants to go. I am trying to verify that I have shift shaft splines aligned but its a bit tough with one person. I have done several of these for other boats but first time I have had this particular one off so any tips are appreciated.

Thanks!

[Savage]

Get a friend to help by turning the flywheel, if you can't install yourself.

[Anthonysjo]

Finally got some help. It was binding on the shift shaft. I will post more details soon to hopefully help the next guy. Thanks for the quick reply savage!

[Bob G.]

I use a strap connected to the jackplate to support the lower unit when installing as I can't reach the flywheel while holding the lower unit.

[Anthonysjo]

The method below worked for me but I was having issues getting the shift shaft splines aligned when pushing up the last little bit. With a helper we pushed it up and slide joining coupler up on the shift shaft so it would start to join up with the linkage a bit earlier and while it had some play in it. Once we were able to wiggle these two together with the LU resting on some wood the LU slid right together with no issues. I am not sure if I would have had the same issues had I had someone there originally to do method #2 but oh well. After messing with the shift shaft and linkage position, making sure propshaft was moving counterclockwise as not to cause any damage, I verified normal operating conditions of the controls and LU while again spinning the shaft.

Thanks for the help and if anyone has other suggestions or tricks that you use when doing this yourself I am all ears. Thanks to all that have helped or contributed to all the great info on the forum!

Method #1
Step 23: Put control box/motor in forward gear....then turn propshaft COUNTER- CLOCKWISE as you rotate the shift shaft CLOCKWISE (shift shaft will only turn less than 1/4 turn), until you have it in forward gear.
You will feel it go into gear and propshaft will become very hard to turn, so stop....it's in gear.
Step 24: Time to install gear housing, so slide your prop back on temporarily.
Step 25: Slide gear housing back up into drive shaft housing as when you removed it. As you get it up near the top you will need to feed the pitot hose through the hole in driveshaft housing and as you get it closer you will need to rotate the prop COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to align splines on drive shaft to the crankshaft. After it aligns, you stop turning prop and make sure the shift shaft aligns and slides together. Once all is aligned push drive shaft up tight.

[EuropeanAM]

G1 TM is correct- run it 1-2 ounces below vent opening.

Sherm's instructions are very good. Two items I recommend differently are:

1. NO GREASE on IMPELLER (use dawn dish-soap).

2. Remove and install in NEUTRAL. Far less chance of mis-matching this way.