Ranger Trailwe Brake Issue, Burning Question...

[QuanBasser]

I am hoping to get a little advice on what can remedy a brake issue my trailer has developed. I will try and make a long story short. I have a 2010 Ranger Z518, Single Axle Trailer with Brakes. My buddy and I bled my brakes along with other maintenance, like replacing the emergency surge brake cable (it was pretty shredded and weathered upon inspection). Things seemed pretty good. A month or so after this, while driving on I-495 in the DC area a gentleman yelled out his window “your s*** is on fire”. I pulled onto the shoulder of the beltway (fun) and saw that my brakes on the passenger side were, well, on fire on the passenger (truck) side. Extinguished the flame and disconnected the brakes to get home. Pads on this side were totally worn to the nub, heated up and started the fire. Since this incident I replaced the hub assembly (Vault 14” Hub Arm Assembly, w/calipers, pads etc) and bled the lines again. A few weeks later after driving the trailer several miles I got out of the truck and smelled my brake pads on the trailer and wheels were pretty hot. Discovered that my e-cable was still engaged while driving. I’m not sure if this was the case for the first incident. I flipped the release switch on bottom side of the actuator. It clicked over so I suspect the e-brake was engaged causing the overheating. I check this switch every time I trail now. I’ve noticed the wheels getting warm and smell the brakes even when the switch is released. The brake lines seem okay upon inspection, no leaking fluid, or viewable tears. The actuator (UFP A-60) looks as if it is in good condition, it has appropriate pressure and slides smooth. I never had any issue with the brakes locking up when I accelerate after a stop. Does anyone have any idea of what is causing my brakes to heat up, or stay engaged while driving? Could it be a sticky/faulty master cylinder? It looked okay when I inspected it. I’ve seen other posts on BBC that explains some solutions, I have tried them, but they are still overheating. Sorry for the novel, any help is appreciated.

[Zpilot]

Sounds like the brake calipers are not releasing.
Also did you clean and lube the slide pins prior to re assembly?

[QuanBasser]

Sounds like the brake calipers are not releasing.
Also did you clean and lube the slide pins prior to re assembly?

Yes sir, we cleaned everything we could take apart in the actuator, including the pins, but that is worth a double check. Thanks. I agree that it could be about the calipers, but don't know the root cause.

[Zpilot]

FYI, the slider pins I was talking about are on the calipers, not the actuator. Good luck.

[QuanBasser]

Oh, thanks for setting me straight. Will check that out.

[Danrude]

If it has a swing away tongue check the flexible hose at the pivot point for a kink. Had the same issue with my old trailer and it was kinked not allowing the caliper to relax.

[mikesxpress]

Caliper pins sticking.
Need this:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...Caliper+grease

[QuanBasser]

Oh, thanks for setting me straight. Will check that out.

I will certainly check that out. I store in a garage and use the swing tongue often so this is a great suggestion. Thank you.

[QuanBasser]

If it has a swing away tongue check the flexible hose at the pivot point for a kink. Had the same issue with my old trailer and it was kinked not allowing the caliper to relax.

I've heard Permatex is good stuff. I will lube the caliper pins. Thank you.

[nitro3847]

If just one side, could be flexible brake hose at the caliper

[Champ 2001]

One other thing, when you are done fishing and putting your boat away make sure that your actuator doesn't stay engaged. Pull the actuator out manually to prevent the calipers from staying pressurized and sticking.

[marathonman]

I have had the inner liner of the brake line come loose and act like a check valve not letting the fluid to flow back to actuator causing the caliper not to release.
Has happened on both a boat trailer and a backhoe. Just replaced brake line and problem was solved.
if u have all steal line from actuator to calipers, then this is not your problem. Mine had a short piece of rubber flex hose on it and there laid the problems.

[TrailerTami]

In these cases there are several things to look at, is the brake release tab on the bottom of the actuator moving up and down freely? When you bled the system did you lower the actuator to where the bleeders on the calipers were your highest point? Was it only one caliper that was hanging? or both? Is this a straight tongue or a swing-away? 931-454-9089

[QuanBasser]

If just one side, could be flexible brake hose at the caliper

Okay, both sides were getting warm.

[QuanBasser]

I have had the inner liner of the brake line come loose and act like a check valve not letting the fluid to flow back to actuator causing the caliper not to release.
Has happened on both a boat trailer and a backhoe. Just replaced brake line and problem was solved.
if u have all steal line from actuator to calipers, then this is not your problem. Mine had a short piece of rubber flex hose on it and there laid the problems.

I regret not changing the brake line when I worked on the trailer before. They are not all steel lines on mine. Thanks for the tip.

[QuanBasser]

In these cases there are several things to look at, is the brake release tab on the bottom of the actuator moving up and down freely? When you bled the system did you lower the actuator to where the bleeders on the calipers were your highest point? Was it only one caliper that was hanging? or both? Is this a straight tongue or a swing-away? 931-454-9089

The brake release tab does move up and down freely when I press it.
I did not lower the actuator, I kept it at the regular hitch level, could this allow air in the lines?
Both calipers were hanging, so both were getting warm. It is a swing away tongue, and I use it often as it is stored in a garage.

[Fishing Addict]

T
I did not lower the actuator, I kept it at the regular hitch level, could this allow air in the lines?

YES. The hitch should be lower than the bleeders. The air in the system wants to rise to the top. Probably a good time to go ahead and replace those rubber sections of brake line at the same time, as well as clean/lubricate the caliper pins.