How to Access Under Bow Floor to Install Backing Plate???

[darleyhavidson]

I have a 2002 Ranger 620 that I want to install an electronics mount. The mount will be installed on top of a 10" tall Cisco extension. Unfortunately, there is no way to access under the deck floor in the spot I want to mount it. Any ideas on what I can do? I have no idea what is under the deck floor in that spot.

In the attached picture, is a mock up of my setup.

Thoughts?

[alli ss]

Can you not remove that front panel? You could cut a bigger hole where that trolling plug is then make a plate to cover it- install the troller plug and maybe a usb outlet or something. Or install a recessed foot well? Theres always options if you think outside the box.

[darleyhavidson]

Can you not remove that front panel? You could cut a bigger hole where that trolling plug is then make a plate to cover it- install the troller plug and maybe a usb outlet or something. Or install a recessed foot well? Theres always options if you think outside the box.

I can remove that panel, but if I remember correctly there is not direct access underneath the floor from that spot. I will check again tonight. I believe the 620 models don't lend themselves to a recessed foot tray, at least from what I have seen on the forums. It can be done, but it labor intensive. Plus I am not looking to do that.
I am leaning towards installing a screw-in deck plate near that area so I can access underneath the electronic mounting plate.

[Axhammer]

Glue down a mount plate using “the right stuff”, no screws required with that adhesive. If you ever want to remove it, it will be a pain, but possible. That stuff is amazing, and might be better than drilling blind holes in your deck.

[bigboyztoyz]

Should be able to remove front plate and reach back to get access to that area. You may have to remove some foam or even cut an access hole going from front to back, but it can be done.

[turfy49431]

I believe the floor is pultruded. Should hold screws no problem

[darleyhavidson]

Well, as I suspected, no access from the Bow panel. But, I can access the area by removing the TM 24V plug cover. The problem is I am having difficulty moving the rod tubes out of the way, to allow my hand to squeeze under the floor. The rod tubes are foamed in place. Any suggestions?

[jtracc]

I can't access this area on my ranger either. The areas with any empty space are filled with foam. If you wanting to attack a base plate to the deck you will have to screw down with SS screws. I have a different bow on mine but I replaced the flush mount unit with a larger one. I made a plate to cover the old 5" cut out and used the humminbird factory gimbal mount. It's rock solid and very clean install. Plus it's not sitting on the deck so if I ever make a swap there's no damage to the deck.

[darleyhavidson]

I can't access this area on my ranger either. The areas with any empty space are filled with foam. If you wanting to attack a base plate to the deck you will have to screw down with SS screws. I have a different bow on mine but I replaced the flush mount unit with a larger one. I made a plate to cover the old 5" cut out and used the humminbird factory gimbal mount. It's rock solid and very clean install. Plus it's not sitting on the deck so if I ever make a swap there's no damage to the deck.

Thank for the reply. I do not want to mount any electronics to the bow plate. The previous boat owner did this and all the screw holes holding the plate in place were wallowed out. The area of the deck I am going to mount the base is perfect for how I fish and won't be in the way. The attached picture is a mock up of what I am going to end up with (one way or another).

[alli ss]

You gonna be able to see over that? I had to mount mine off to the side

[darleyhavidson]

You gonna be able to see over that? I had to mount mine off to the side

The trolling motor itself makes its hard to see past the bow. I can tilt the head unit down when underway and not lose any more visibility than what the TM already limits.

[darleyhavidson]

Got the plate mounted. It took about 8 hours to get it done. Tried many different methods and finally got the right combination of wrenches taped together to reach bolt. Sadly, I had to do it twice. The first time there must have been carpet fibers or debris in the bolt threads as the nylock got stuck and I couldn't tighten it any more. So, I had to break that bolt and install a new one.

Got it done though.

[wmitch2]

I'd have just used large Stainless screws and screwed it to the deck, Pre-drill a smaller hole then screw them in, 15 min tops !!

[MichaelJ3]

I'd have just used large Stainless screws and screwed it to the deck, Pre-drill a smaller hole then screw them in, 15 min tops !!

This...should have been fine in a pultruded floor. Thats how all the seats are mounted.

[darleyhavidson]

I'd have just used large Stainless screws and screwed it to the deck, Pre-drill a smaller hole then screw them in, 15 min tops !!

I did that method first. It wasn't strong or stable enough.
Thanks for the feedback.

[tdot_ranger482]

What about a aluminum plate bolted/ sandwiched between trolling motor and bow with a extended mounting leg for your sonar mount? Little higher than you wanted but be strong for sure

[darleyhavidson]

What about a aluminum plate bolted/ sandwiched between trolling motor and bow with a extended mounting leg for your sonar mount? Little higher than you wanted but be strong for sure

Interesting idea. I went with my approach, as I can remove the 10" extension and have a small mounting plate left, which is not in the way when not using the boat for fishing. I got it mounted and it's not going anywhere, very sturdy.