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  1. #1
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    Mounting trolling motor on Ranger bow

    I plan on installing a quick release bracket with my ulterra at the bow. Is any reinforcement plate required under the deck to minimize flex, etc?

    or are larger washers sufficient?

  2. #2
    It is not necessary on the glass boats I have had Terrova and now Ulterra on a Z boat for years there is extra reinforcing layers of pultrusion where the trolling motor mounts and I have also been to the factory and seen the deck flipped with this process. On the aluminum boats I would put a quick call to Ranger and ask. The stow&deploy on the Ulterra is slow and pretty smooth and I have not noticed any more flexing or stress on the deck then with a standard trolling motor.

    Tournament-Fishing \"It\'s not a question of if you will be humbled but how many times\"

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    #3
    That's great to know bassbama. I am coming from a Ranger Aluminum and I used washers under the deck but no additional support beyond that. Never had a worry.

    My worry wouldnt be the stow and deploy, but the bouncing up and down when traveling at speed or even trailering. With what you describe it sounds like its not a worry.

  4. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #4
    Use Stainless Bolts, Lock Nuts, and I added Fender Washers under the deck. They're much wider than regular Flat washers and help to protect the fiberglass.
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
    G Loomis Rods / Shimano Reels
    Raymarine / MinnKota Ultrex
    Garmin / Live Scope Plus
    Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
    Troll Bridge / V-T2 Vents


  5. #5
    I will add this I've been in a few tournaments over the years where at the end of the day when making the run to weigh-in the wind has increased dramatically since the start of the day and I know it will be an extra rough ride. in such a case I will retract the Ulterra and strap it down before heading in just to be on the safe side. on my Terrova and Ulterra always have used R&R mounts https://www.rnrd.com/marine-products/trolling-motors/

    Tournament-Fishing \"It\'s not a question of if you will be humbled but how many times\"

  6. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by wmitch2 View Post
    Use Stainless Bolts, Lock Nuts, and I added Fender Washers under the deck. They're much wider than regular Flat washers and help to protect the fiberglass.
    THIS^^^. But, put some Never Seize on the threads in case you'd ever have to remove the TM mount.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments

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    #7
    same here a Ulterra on a Z520 with sliding quick release bracket Bow area is reinforced and solid!

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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Hahn View Post
    THIS^^^. But, put some Never Seize on the threads in case you'd ever have to remove the TM mount.
    On my old boat I used the nylocks and ummm.... well they are hell to get off so I left em. I read that you can torch them so the plastic melts but handling a torch under your deck is doable but less than desireable.

    Moving ahead, how would it perform if I use regular nuts, lock washers, fender washers, and blue loctite?

  9. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by BoilermakerRT178 View Post
    On my old boat I used the nylocks and ummm.... well they are hell to get off so I left em. I read that you can torch them so the plastic melts but handling a torch under your deck is doable but less than desireable.

    Moving ahead, how would it perform if I use regular nuts, lock washers, fender washers, and blue loctite?
    I would never use an loctite on those bolts. If you tighten them down sufficiently, they won't back out. I would put Never Seize right up where the nut will sit when tight. Then, if you want a little extra security, put a dab of clear RTV silicone below the nut once it is tight.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments

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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Hahn View Post
    I would never use an loctite on those bolts. If you tighten them down sufficiently, they won't back out. I would put Never Seize right up where the nut will sit when tight. Then, if you want a little extra security, put a dab of clear RTV silicone below the nut once it is tight.
    Thanks Jeff. But again, my experience with the lock nuts are that once they are on, it is a major pain getting them off especially in tight spaces. Do believe the loctite comes in two strengths. Highest is red and medium in blue?

    Just looking for alternatives to these lock nuts on something I want to remain stable yet at some point the option to remove....with feeling like I have to get out a blow torch or hacksaw.

    So maybe yes, adding the never seize near where the final nut resting spot sits might do the trick. Thanks for that.