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  1. #1
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    Aug 2017
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    Engine too high on Ranger?

    89 Ranger 364V with 88 Johnson GT150 with a 24P Raker and 6" jack plate. 3.5" PTP. Just had the prop repaired and B&B added some cup to the blades. Previously I had great holeshot and good bow lift. Now I feel like I'm getting a lot of stern lift. Holeshot is 3x's as long and the nose is low running WOT. It actually is throwing a rooster tail now where it has never come close to throwing one before. The more you trim the higher the rooster tail with zero nose lift. I am not an expert at this so here are my two thoughts at what is going on. Maybe someone can verify or validate what I'm thinking... I am thinking start by dropping the engine a quarter or half inch? This should give me more leverage and possibly get the nose up as a result? Keep going down till I get desired results. This is the main goal right now. Getting the nose up. I would think going up would just worsen the effects correct? Or possible the cup in the Raker is just too much for the engine? But then I think maybe it's not. When purchased it ran 4800 RPM w/ no setback and 5.75" PTP with this nose level w/ this damaged prop. With same damaged prop and 6" plate and prop set to 3.5" PTP I was seeing 5000 RPM at this nose level. With both of those setups I could raise the nose higher to the point I was actually getting really up on the pad. It would just start walking on me, and that took a while to figure out how to drive it. Last time out before prop repair was when I learned how to balance it on pad. I could give more trim and it opened up(gained 4 mph and I could hear the RPM's increasing) but I didn't bother checking RPM's closely as I was too busy watching the nose of the boat. But it was north of 5000 RPM's. Now I am seeing 5200 RPM running level. I am thinking nose up on pad is going to get it a couple hundred extra RPM's. Am I thinking correctly??

  2. Member
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    Sep 2016
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    Ruma Ill
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    #2
    Your ptp is real close to where it needs to be . But your rpms are low should be seeing 5600 to 5800 rpm . Have the throttle Checked for wide open . Have the compression ck on the motor . If those ck out . Then I’m thinking your running heavy . Either to much stuff in the boat and not load correctly or boat is water saturated . That boat is 30 years old thats a lot of time for water to build up in the foam .

  3. Member
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    Aug 2017
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    Texas
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    #3
    I'm sure it's probably pretty wet inside the boat, but would the fact 8 or so feet of boat still being in the water theoretically limit RPM's? I don't have a lot of experience with this, but the last run I made before the prop repair seems like there is more RPM's to be had fully up on pad. I wished I had checked my tach before I ran out of water. I had brought the nose up to the point it starts walking which is 58 mph and 5000 RPMs. Once it started walking and I got it back running level till I felt comfortable with what I was doing then added more trim and it took off. It felt like you hit a passing gear on the hwy in your car. You could feel the acceleration and a noticeable increase in RPM's. Just wished I looked at the tach and had more water to keep pushing it. That's what got me thinking with not being able to lift the nose now after prop repair maybe the engine is a little high.

    Compression is ok for an old GT. Within 8 pounds of each other. 82 to 90#. From what it looks like to me the carbs are full open when throttle in wide open.

  4. Banned
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    #4
    Where are you in Tx

  5. Member
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    Aug 2017
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    Texas
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    #5
    In Springtown

  6. Member
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    Sep 2016
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    Ruma Ill
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    803
    #6
    Weight will kill top end performance and rpms big time . If the boat foam is saturated Don’t worry about top end performance any more buy a smaller prop and just go fishing . Ranger puts a lot of blow in foam in there boats they can get heavy real quick and it’s hard to get dried up .

  7. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Red Oak Va.
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    10,597
    #7
    Why did you have cup added to prop? A factory spec 24" Raker was all you needed and it sounds like you might have a bad prop repair if with too much cup added to blades. Try dropping the motor 1/4" and see what it does but it might need to be returned and tweaked by your prop guy. It's easy to mess up a Raker.

  8. Member
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    Aug 2017
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    Texas
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    #8
    I didn't ask him to do anything other than straighten it up. He added the cup on his own accord. I figure when the O.T. slows down I'll get out there and start dropping the engine and see how she reacts. If I can get it to act ok deeper I can live with that for a while till I can take it back and get it lined out.

  9. Member
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    Jul 2005
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    Norfolk Virginia
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    #9
    My guess is the prop guy screwed up your prop. I have been down that road before. See if you can get your hands on another Raker or maybe a Tempest prop and give it a try. Here where I live we have several prop shops that can make a prop look very nice but they cannot get the prop to run like it should. You may want to try sending your prop to Mark's Propellers (board sponsor). He may be able to fix your prop.

  10. Member
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    Aug 2017
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    Texas
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    #10
    It could be, but the shop is a reputable shop that has been around since the 70's. It was a toss up between him, 45 minute drive, or Josh down at Lake Fork, several hour drive. Both had exceptional reviews from everyone I talked with. Figure the next couple days run it with just me in it and see how it runs and start dropping the engine. Anything lower than half an inch lower than what it sits now and I'll have the cup removed. I probably should have ran it alone that first time to get a good representative comparison as I fish alone 95%+ of the time.

  11. Member
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    #11
    If he added cup on his own I would question the repair.

  12. Banned
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    Jul 2016
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    Skiatook, Oklahoma
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    #12
    He added cup on his own without your in pit he needs to repair it on his own.

  13. Member
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    Aug 2017
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    Texas
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    #13
    So finally ran it with just me in the boat with my normal light load, but 2 full tanks instead of 1. Same engine height. Here is the short of it... Smooth. Actually first time I've been able to trim it to a neutral position and have zero torque on the steering wheel. Entire boat seems like it's sitting up out of the water better. Was able to hit 60mph unknown RPM's, rectifier gave out that morning. But number 1 thing that I was not expecting was the fuel range increase. Actually getting MPG's instead of gallons per mile lol. Oh well gonna live with what she is. An old boat lol.

  14. BBC SPONSOR/ Shallow Water Anchors Moderator
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    Apr 2015
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by mtatum View Post
    It could be, but the shop is a reputable shop that has been around since the 70's. It was a toss up between him, 45 minute drive, or Josh down at Lake Fork, several hour drive. Both had exceptional reviews from everyone I talked with. Figure the next couple days run it with just me in it and see how it runs and start dropping the engine. Anything lower than half an inch lower than what it sits now and I'll have the cup removed. I probably should have ran it alone that first time to get a good representative comparison as I fish alone 95%+ of the time.
    Can never go wrong with Croxton, it would have been worth the shipping cost.