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  1. Member
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    #21
    The lowest profile way I know to do it is to tape the Phillip’s head bit into one of the flat ratcheting wrenches. The lowest profile battery option I know is one of the 3/8” driver shaped kind but by the time you adapted to the Phillip’s you’d be nearly as thick as a right angle drill.

  2. Member
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    Apr 2012
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    Insomnia, near Seaford Delaware
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    #22
    Maybe a pneumatic 1/4 inch air ratchet. What ever you use keep pressure against the back of it so you don't strip the heads of the philips screws. A better choice of replacement might be square drive screws. I think Basscat uses a square drive screw to secure their seats. Hope the ones you're working with aren't square drive instead of philips.
    You might check.

  3. Member
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    Nov 2017
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    #23
    Quote Originally Posted by billnorman1 View Post
    Maybe a pneumatic 1/4 inch air ratchet. What ever you use keep pressure against the back of it so you don't strip the heads of the philips screws. A better choice of replacement might be square drive screws. I think Basscat uses a square drive screw to secure their seats. Hope the ones you're working with aren't square drive instead of philips.
    You might check.
    The standard thu hull replacement has phillips screws under there. I kept feeling them with my finger last night and I believe they are phillips. I seemed like my Philips head was locking in with the screw. I just couldn't get enough room to turn. I think my ratchet screwdriver I posted was a little too thick.

  4. Member
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    Jun 2004
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    Grand Prairie, Tx
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    #24
    Either of these might be a little better.
    https://www.grainger.com/product/3ZH...190206150832:s
    https://www.sears.com/craftsman-offset-ratchet-screwdriver-set/p-00904116000P?sid=IDx20141028xBingPLA&msclkid=928cf e920fef18df2a0ea2c8f6e675dd&sid=IDx20141028xBingPL Ax272405771&utm_campaign=&utm_group=11984680973125 20-{creative}&utm_term=pla-4578503882132801
    __________________________________________________ __________________
    1999 Allison w/01 200 Pro Max
    2000 Dodge w/Cummins

  5. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    May 2004
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    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
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    #25
    You could try removing the nut on the outside, rotate the housing so you can get to the screws, install the new housing then reseal the nut on the transom.

  6. Member
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    You could try removing the nut on the outside, rotate the housing so you can get to the screws, install the new housing then reseal the nut on the transom.
    Interesting idea. Thanks. I'll think about it if getting a better tool doesn't work. I don't think it will work because INSIDE is siliconed tight as well.

  7. Member
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    Nov 2017
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    #27
    I am so so close!!! I have had to temporarily disconnect my bilge pumps and zip tie some pump wires. But I used it as a reason to better organize all of it anyway and glade I did that. It's also allowed me to pick up little objects that somehow make their way into the lowest areas and tight spaces of bilges. I'm going to give it a good cleaning while it's all cleared out as well.

    I had a hardware store grind down the bit I need to have a lower profile in a 1/4 crescent wrench. Even with that and everything cleared out it's STILL really tight. I've spend a lot of time piddling with it. It's a tough reach and agree that the best option is to just redo the whole thing. But I'm too far in and determined at this point. I have one screw in and another close. Someone mentioned taping the underside of a crescent to prevent the bit from falling out other side. That helped but I am glueing it in so I can have more upward pressure. Even putting my finger tip under it makes it impossible. This is a really tough job (for me anyway) and don't recommend it if your pump housing busts. But I do think I will get it done my way. But at a cost

    I will say I have at least learned a few things by getting down in there and moving and organizing.

  8. Member
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    Apr 2012
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    Insomnia, near Seaford Delaware
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    #28
    You might consider stainless bolt head fasteners instead of Philips head screws if you have room. I found some self tapping stainless bolts in Lowe's and used them to secure my Hotfoot. I used a portable drill and blind shot them into the deck behind the pedal. (measured first, no holes in hull) Five years,no issues.

  9. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #29
    I do have to commend you on your persistence!

  10. Member
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    #30
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    I do have to commend you on your persistence!
    Thanks. After shopping 5 stores I finally found a 1/4 inch combination ratchet wrench (the type without a socket where you put the bit straight in). I have all 3 screws in and it looks and appears fitted on the thru hull housing good as new. Pump cartridge snapped back in as well. I've reinstalled my bilge pumps and zipped wiring at a higher point. I won't say mission accomplished until I back her down the ramp and see with my own eyes it's fixed. But I'd be surprised if it isn't. I'll post tomorrow evening if I get boat out tomorrow. There were a couple other little details I want to share if this is for sure done right.

  11. Member 78Staff's Avatar
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    Mar 2012
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    #31
    Quote Originally Posted by BassCatKev View Post
    Thanks. After shopping 5 stores I finally found a 1/4 inch combination ratchet wrench (the type without a socket where you put the bit straight in). I have all 3 screws in and it looks and appears fitted on the thru hull housing good as new. Pump cartridge snapped back in as well. I've reinstalled my bilge pumps and zipped wiring at a higher point. I won't say mission accomplished until I back her down the ramp and see with my own eyes it's fixed. But I'd be surprised if it isn't. I'll post tomorrow evening if I get boat out tomorrow. There were a couple other little details I want to share if this is for sure done right.
    Did you get a chance to test the fix?

  12. Member
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    #32
    Nope I've had work and nasty weather. For sure putting boat in lake this weekend. Will definitely post what happens although I'm confident it should be fine. I would be very surprised if there is a problem. But I guarantee you I'll have my bilge lid open and flashlight in hand when I launch tomorrow morning. Thanks for checking. I'll definitely follow up.

  13. Member
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    #33
    Got to put my replacement housing to the test this weekend. It had been pouring rain so lots of water was constantly dripping and flowing to bilge area anyway so I had to keep staring at it while transom intake hole was submerged but boat still attached to trailer. But saw no water flowing out of housing. I was even more assured it was working perfectly the following day . A 1/4 inch ratchet wrench with a grinded down Phillips bit is absolutely necessary. It also helped to put (I used) electrical tape as tight as possible under bit so you don't have to put your index finger under bit and can give a little upward pressure on the screws. In reflection, I spent a ton of time doing this by not having the necessary tool in the first place. I don't think I could have done it without disconnecting intake hose and removing my two bilge pumps and moving their hoses. But I was organizing pump wiring anyway and also managed to remove some other junk that shouldn't be down there. I can definitely see why several people told me to just replace thru-hull fitting and housing all at once. But it can be done this way.

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