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IMG_9045.JPGYou talking about this?
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Yes. Remove the hose from the barb and the unscrew the barb from the tank fitting. Maybe use a a pair of channel locks to support the tank fitting as you are doing it. If it has an anti-siphon valve it will be in the barb. Spring and ball valve. If they replaced all your hose back to the tank why does it have a crimp fitting on the hose? That kind of fitting is normally OEM. I am also wondering why there is high temp silicone and looks like other silicone on the fitting. It is like it was sucking air there before and this was a quick fix. When you take the hose off I would cut it back if possible to make sure you get a clean piece, and use two hose clamps.
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The hose is definitely new, he must have put that clamp on. Where the hose goes over the fitting that is a lubricant of some sort, feels like grease. As for the red I was just thinking that was something like locktight or some kind of liquid thread tape so to speak... Thanks for your replies and I will take that off tomorrow, weather permitting.
Also have a video of motor running and you can hear it bog down, if that would help, but don't know how to get it posted here. Tried to upload it on photobucket but it's not letting me upload an iphone video.
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I have a 2003 225 hp ox66. Just had it rebuilt after 1000 hours. Every issue I’ve ever had beyond the O2 sensor has been fuel related. I hear TPS can go out, but it is easily tested with the test harness and a volt meter. If need the service manual pm me your email and I’ll send you a pdf.
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Thnaks, I've got the service manual and test harness. The TPS sensor tested ok but i'm thinking of replacing it anyway.
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IMG_9055.JPGIMG_9053.JPGIMG_9056.JPGSo I pulled the valve and there is nothing inside of it, blew it out with an air hose just incase. The filter screen was clean as could be. Also included a pic of how i put it back together just wanting to make sure that it will do the job.
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Update, problem solved. I don't understand it completely but it was the prop. Apparently that engine was designed to run with a 3 blade prop according to Yamaha. When it was rebuilt the computer had to relearn the best way to feed the engine fuel as it got to speed. The 4 blade prop screwed this all up and it would back off on the gas at about 3200 rpms. We switched the prop to a 3 blade first run it still missed, second run it didn't skip a beat and ran strong all the way to 5700 RPMs. Made about 10 more passes and it never missed again. Got up to 70 without any fine tuning of the trim and tilt. Very happy with this result. My mechanic said he doubted the Yamaha tech when he was told to switch the prop and thought it had nothing to do with it. However, he was willing to listen and tried it and it worked. We had over $4k worth of other parts laid out to swap 1 by 1 to try to figure this out. All it took was swapping the prop out. Thanks for anyone that replied previously. Hope this is really it.....
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and it started doing it again...... so problem not solved!
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It made it 3 months without messing up again?
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