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  1. #1
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    hand wrapper question from a beginner

    At this point I'm not looking at actually building rods, but I do want to learn how to replace or re-wrap guides on my existing rods that need it. I've been looking at a couple of starter kits online and was hoping someone could help me out. Both kits have a hand wrapper included, but one has a thread tension rod and the other does not. Is this something important for a beginner like myself to have? Any other tips or pointers for someone just starting out with this? Thanks!

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    #2
    You need something to keep tension on the thread, yes.

    I'd just recommend this one. Come with everything you'll need including a dryer. Get some thread and Threadmaster finish and you'll be able to fix any rod and pretty much build any rod.

    https://www.getbitoutdoors.com/rod-b...-gbstk-wd.html

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    #3
    ^^^^^I concur with this.

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    #4
    Thanks, that's one of the kits I was looking at. One more question comes to mind. When looking at epoxy finishes, I see them listed as Lite build, High build, and even Medium build...what does this mean?

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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by coreynov902 View Post
    Thanks, that's one of the kits I was looking at. One more question comes to mind. When looking at epoxy finishes, I see them listed as Lite build, High build, and even Medium build...what does this mean?
    basically means how thick it is. Lite build is thin so you have to use more coats. High build is thicker so you don't have to use as many. Just a preference. Myself, 9 times out of 10 I use 1 coat of high build but I've got a certain way I apply it and have found it comes out really well.

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    #6
    Whatever you get comfortable with my advice is to stay with it. I use the Threadmaster Lite and do 3 coats.

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    #7
    Thanks for the explanation. If you do multiple coats, do you need to let each coat completely dry before adding the next, or do you just wait a certain amount of time (like 30 minutes or an hour) and then apply the next coat? Is the Lite easier to apply than the High since it's thinner? Is it more difficult to get the high build to look as good since it's thicker?

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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by coreynov902 View Post
    Thanks for the explanation. If you do multiple coats, do you need to let each coat completely dry before adding the next, or do you just wait a certain amount of time (like 30 minutes or an hour) and then apply the next coat? Is the Lite easier to apply than the High since it's thinner? Is it more difficult to get the high build to look as good since it's thicker?
    I go 16 to 18 hours between coats and 24 to 48 hours for the final coat. Tempature is a factor and in some cases humidity. I like to dry at 72 degrees and 50 to 60 percent humidity. That is what i'm comfortable with other factors may be different for you. The lite is no easier to apply but for me i get better soakin results. I don't have to babysit the lite. Nothing wrong with the high for others.

  9. Member
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    #9
    If you only want to replace a guide or two and don't care if the repair matches, all you need is a spool of guide thread, a vial of rod cement, a roll of tape and a few books.

    Run the thread through the pages of a book and add weight until the proper tension is achieved.

    The technique for wrapping is easy to learn.

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    #10
    OK, thanks!

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    #11
    Like DOC said, it's kind of a preference thing along with your technique. For me, I mix up the epoxy pretty fast with a popsicle stick in a plastic dixie cup and then pour it into a little bowl I make out of tinfoil (3mls of resin and 3mls of hardener is what I use 90% of the time for a whole rod...for repairs I use 1ml each). You'll have a ton of bubbles in the epoxy in the bowl but that doesn't matter at this point. I apply with a cheap disposable plastic brush. I soak the brush really well with epoxy and then sort of press it into the wraps for several revolutions, this will help get it into the wraps and also take out a lot of the bubbles. Once the guides look good and soaked I'll put on a little more with the brush and then hit it quick with a flame and it'll all even out and take out any bubbles. That's pretty much it and then I move on to the next guide. I've never had a problem with bubbles and have had no issues with durability.

    The warmer it is, the quicker it will set. My rod shop is next to the room where my furnace is so in the winter that room is actually warmer than in the summer.

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quite a while ago, I made a rod wrapper from some 5/8" plywood. Its about 6 feet long and about six inches wide,with three rod supports. The rod supports are lined with felt. Definitly suggest a thread tensioner. My work is not as perfect as many I've seen here, but the fish can't see it...BF

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    #13
    When I was a kid I build my first rods using two hooks like these to hold the rod https://www.homedepot.com/p/Robtec-5...516Y/205995707

    I would put the spool of thread in a plastic coolwip bowl and run the thread thru a telephone book with weight on it (thread tensioner). Worked like a champ.

    I now have a muddle tackle CRB handwraper now, but the old way I used to do it works just as good.


    Quote Originally Posted by coreynov902 View Post
    At this point I'm not looking at actually building rods, but I do want to learn how to replace or re-wrap guides on my existing rods that need it. I've been looking at a couple of starter kits online and was hoping someone could help me out. Both kits have a hand wrapper included, but one has a thread tension rod and the other does not. Is this something important for a beginner like myself to have? Any other tips or pointers for someone just starting out with this? Thanks!

  14. Member
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    #14
    Thanks for all the advice and information! I greatly appreciate it.