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Help with 2000 Johnson 200hp
Hey guys a few years ago I snatched up a 2000 model 200hp Johnson to repower my boat. It had a Yamaha on it previously so had to re-rig/ wire etc. I put it all on the boat hit the key nada. The only thing I hooked up to the battery is the starter cables. I messed with it a bit and covered it up. My mother got sick then passed and I got thrown into a whirl wind of events which included building my new family home. So I am back to messing with the boat this time inside my full size garages. 
Either way it's in nuetral, I've disconnected the cable and made sure it was in nuetral on the motor as well as the handle.
I'm getting no tone or anything which tells me it's electrical I'm thinking there is an auxiliary power I need to hook into the system somewhere.
Any advice?
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SC Club Moderator
Welcome back to the boating world. Couple questions, if you turn the key to on does the system check gauge/tach cycle the LEDs? Have you installed an OMC control box along with the MWS wiring harness? You can hook up the battery to the motor and use a remote start switch to bypass the boat side. If it won't do a thing, then check the 20 Amp fuse on wiring harness near the starter.
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Omc control box? I did not install new gauges so I've got a plethora of plugs at the console not in use. I did install the throttle handle deal? Is that the omc control box?
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SC Club Moderator
So you have all of your Yamaha gauges still installed? No OMC gauges? OMC control box means shift cables and wiring harness.
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Yes I installed shift cables and wiring harness.
No I've not replaced any gauges.
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Can you tell me exactly where the 20 amp fuse is? I've looked and looked I a few modules cannot seem to find a fuse I remember the one on my Yamaha was very obvious.
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SC Club Moderator
Yes, next to the starter you will see a plastic plate held on by 3 screws, that's where the wiring harness from the boat and engine join. It is a blade type fuse and there should also be another holder that is labeled spare on it. The Spare holder is red in color.
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I went through and checked all the plugs through the harness made sure they are good and tight. Only plug on the motor that does not have anything going to it is this one.
IMG_20190129_144057.jpg
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Just remembered that's the one going g to my oil tank which i opted to pre Mix so I deleted that tank.
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Getting somewhere.
I kept the key turned and moved the throttle handle and got it to turn over.
IMG_20190129_145633.jpgIMG_20190129_145642.jpg
The 1st pic with the throttle up and down where I assumed nuetral to be. The second pic with it turned a 1/4 is where it is. I removed the cable from the post on the motor to see if the position was out of whack there or here at the handle. It appears to be at the handle. So I'm a bit confused as to how I adjust that.
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I got it. I feel like a genius. No actually I feel dumb that it took that long.
One thing. I'm still not getting any key Tone even though the key is in on position or if I remove the kill switch.
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SC Club Moderator
You need to remove the handle from where it is now and rotate it approx 45* back to where picture #1 shows. That should be neutral. The new style wiring harness will allow the motor to start whether the kill switch lanyard is installed or not. To test your horn remove a tan wire off one of the cylinder heads, make a short jumper wire up and hook it to the motor side, turn the key to on and connect the end of the jumper to the block the alarm should sound.
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What's the overall opinion of the 2000 Johnson with the Fitch injection system?
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SC Club Moderator
In 2000 Johnson only made the carb model, Evinrude had the FICHT direct injected motor.
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Keep learning new things daily. Sure enough it's carbed. I think I knew that a few years ago when I purchased it but I'd forgotten and started to believe it was injected recently. Glad it's not.
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I decided to delete the oil injection and premix my oil.
Mix ratio is 50 to 1 correct?
Where is a good place to keep an eye out for a lower unit for that motor?
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Sprint Boats Moderator
50 to 1 is correct.......but that is the best oiling system out there and a lot less hassle.....as for the lower unit check the motor parts forum down below.
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Back to the kill switch. The horn works (if given 12 volts) I tested the voltage of the wires coming off the back of the kill switch and the contact is making and breaking with instillation and removal of the lanyard. Any idea why my horn is not getting the signal?
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