Replacing 24v with 36v MinnKota?

[Neverest]

Thought I knew want I was going to do but after reading various threads and other research, I’m more confused now than when I started.

Premise: Replacing a 24V Maxxum direct wiring (no plugs) with a 36V Fortrex and I want male/female receptacles versus direct wiring so I can plug-n-play a backup Fortrex. Also want switching ability to isolate charging while protecting Fortrex.

Questions:
1. What gauge wiring is necessary between the Fortrex and battery connections?
2. What switches, breakers, etc. are required?
3. Would be nice if switching would provide emergency start for big motor but this isn’t a show-stopper.

Any other recommendations or advice?

Thanks...

[CatFan]

8AWG is required, but 6 is better. For a 112 you need 60A. For a 101 you need 50A, but if you have 6AWG I’d use a 60A switchable breaker.

Look at the Battery Tender connector.

[Neverest]

Excellent information. Going to plumb for the 112. Will look at Battery Tender. Recommendation for a 60A locking male/female plug? Thanks again...

[CatFan]

Excellent information. Going to plumb for the 112. Will look at Battery Tender. Recommendation for a 60A locking male/female plug? Thanks again...

The Battery Tender is a very good locking plug.

[mak747]

Check out the following thread for some additional plug options.

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=952419

[friogatto]

All wiring custom built lengths, connectors, terminal connector size/style, colors, (clear) shrink wrapped ends.
I ordered from www.genuinedealz.com
It's more cost effective than you would think and only took a few days to get. Highly regarded company on THT and other forums. They use marine tinned wiring.
They also have the wire gauge calculator and other resources to help.

Take your time and make a full diagram. Sucks ordering twice or forgetting a part.

2 TM's would need 2 battery tender TM plugs. One base mounted and for quick swap out it each TM needs it's own top half of the plug.
They are not cheap but pretty much the best TM plug your going to get. Worth the money.
Battery Tender TM Plug https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende.../dp/B002UCLJG0

Bussman 60amp breaker. Installed on the positive side. Remember to order a short wire for this to be mounted as near the battery as possible. The breaker also acts as an on/off switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB18...bussman+60+amp

If you need to mount the breaker right to the battery this is a hard plate designed for that.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YMZIVY6...v_ov_lig_dp_it

[Neverest]

Thanks. Removed 24V and discovered a junction box that marries the troll motor electrical feeds to the pre-wired 6 GA feeds to the rear battery compartment - incorrectly assumed I have to replace the wiring from the bow to stern. Given this revelation and ease of access to the junction box behind a bow panel, I’m re-evaluating whether I want a bow plug (for disconnection when charging) on both motors or a rear switch that I can use for charging and an emergency jump. Probably the latter. Thanks again for the great information...

[tracer1]

Cut off switch in the battery compartment. I have switch for the TM & another switch that cuts power to everything else , especially with PPs

[Lou r Pitcher]

Thanks. Removed 24V and discovered a junction box that marries the troll motor electrical feeds to the pre-wired 6 GA feeds to the rear battery compartment - incorrectly assumed I have to replace the wiring from the bow to stern. Given this revelation and ease of access to the junction box behind a bow panel, I’m re-evaluating whether I want a bow plug (for disconnection when charging) on both motors or a rear switch that I can use for charging and an emergency jump. Probably the latter. Thanks again for the great information...

I myself would not advise anyone to violate a manufacturers recommended over-current protection specification. If a manufacturer states a size 50 amp breaker is needed to protect their trolling motor then a 60 amp simply does not accomplish that requirement no matter what gauge wire happens to have been used to connect the battery to the trolling motor's input wires. The over current protection provides needed safety for more than just the boat's wiring in the path to the trolling motor.

To go with a quick changeout between 2 trolling motors having different 50 and 60 amp requirements two breakers would need to be able to be configured in the wiring setup appropriately depending on which TM was being powered.

[Neverest]

I myself would not advise anyone to violate a manufacturers recommended over-current protection specification. If a manufacturer states a size 50 amp breaker is needed to protect their trolling motor then a 60 amp simply does not accomplish that requirement no matter what gauge wire happens to have been used to connect the battery to the trolling motor's input wires. The over current protection provides needed safety for more than just the boat's wiring in the path to the trolling motor.

To go with a quick changeout between 2 trolling motors having different 50 and 60 amp requirements two breakers would need to be able to be configured in the wiring setup appropriately depending on which TM was being powered.

Sorry I wasn’t clear on my upgrade. I’m replacing the 24v Maxxum with a pair of 36v Fortrexes...

[Dave in Mpls]

All wiring custom built lengths, connectors, terminal connector size/style, colors, (clear) shrink wrapped ends.
I ordered from www.genuinedealz.com
It's more cost effective than you would think and only took a few days to get. Highly regarded company on THT and other forums. They use marine tinned wiring.
They also have the wire gauge calculator and other resources to help.

Take your time and make a full diagram. Sucks ordering twice or forgetting a part.

2 TM's would need 2 battery tender TM plugs. One base mounted and for quick swap out it each TM needs it's own top half of the plug.
They are not cheap but pretty much the best TM plug your going to get. Worth the money.
Battery Tender TM Plug https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende.../dp/B002UCLJG0

Bussman 60amp breaker. Installed on the positive side. Remember to order a short wire for this to be mounted as near the battery as possible. The breaker also acts as an on/off switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB18...bussman+60+amp

If you need to mount the breaker right to the battery this is a hard plate designed for that.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YMZIVY6...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Excellent advice here^^^! One noteworthy item - The Bussmann CB185 are not marine rated. The CB285 series are nearly identical and are marine rated. I have no idea what, if anything, the differences are...see pages 22-23, and page 35 here: http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...515.1548460538
Don't be confused by the "M6 threaded studs" language on the CB285 - it is essentially 1/4" from a ring terminal standpoint.

[Champ 2001]

Bummer! I just ordered the Bussman CB185 breaker!

[Dave in Mpls]

Bummer! I just ordered the Bussman CB185 breaker!

You’ll be fine. I’ve used the 185 series in numerous installations going back over 10 years and have never had a problem. Honestly I think they change a couple small non-essential details and jack the price cause they are “marine” rated! Just wanted to point it out....

[CDN Bass]

Sorry I wasn’t clear on my upgrade. I’m replacing the 24v Maxxum with a pair of 36v Fortrexes...

3 x thirty six volt!

Wow! What boat are you running; and where are you going to place them? ... and power them?

[Lape0019]

If your boat already HD 6AWG, I imagine you already have a breaker? If the breaker isn’t big enough for the new motor, I can understand replacing it but I would assume you have everything you need to hook the fortrex up.

My Ranger is wired with 6AWG to a breaker in the back. Like you, I was concerned about being able to cut power to charge. I have an ultrex so ensuring power is turned off is very important. After some extensive research, I determined that using the breaker as an on/off switch would suffice for charging purpose.

So in the end, you really shouldn’t need anything other than another cable to fit between two of the batteries.

[Neverest]

Expected behavior in the Lounge but not in other forums. In this forum, I’d expect constructive posts that contribute value, not diminish it. For your personal clarification and comprehension, one mounted on the boat and the other as a spare stored (not mounted) in the truck...

3 x thirty six volt!

Wow! What boat are you running; and where are you going to place them? ... and power them?

[Neverest]

Thanks. I’ve got an older 520 and going to reinspect to see if I can locate a breaker for the TM wiring. Like yours, the 6 GA homerun was already in place. The prior seller explained that he always removed a lead off of one of the batteries to charge and I’ve been doing that since I’ve owned it - less than a year. I have a breaker for the start battery on the starboard size and expected the same on the port for the TM but didn’t see one. I’ll check closely. Thanks again...

If your boat already HD 6AWG, I imagine you already have a breaker? If the breaker isn’t big enough for the new motor, I can understand replacing it but I would assume you have everything you need to hook the fortrex up.

My Ranger is wired with 6AWG to a breaker in the back. Like you, I was concerned about being able to cut power to charge. I have an ultrex so ensuring power is turned off is very important. After some extensive research, I determined that using the breaker as an on/off switch would suffice for charging purpose.

So in the end, you really shouldn’t need anything other than another cable to fit between two of the batteries.

[Lape0019]

My boat is a 2016. My buddy has a 2013 and his breaker is in the same spot. Against the port side wall of the battery compartment.

You have to have something in there that is accessible now. Follow the positive wire from the battery to wherever it goes. If you don’t have a breaker, you should at least have an in-line fuse. Worst case scenario, install the breaker you bought and you’ll be good to go.

[friogatto]

Excellent advice here^^^! One noteworthy item - The Bussmann CB185 are not marine rated. The CB285 series are nearly identical and are marine rated. I have no idea what, if anything, the differences are...see pages 22-23, and page 35 here: http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...515.1548460538
Don't be confused by the "M6 threaded studs" language on the CB285 - it is essentially 1/4" from a ring terminal standpoint.

Thank you for the correction.
Sorry if i lead anyone astray.