I absolutely love fishing flukes, but one thing I cannot stand is how bad they twist your line. For anyone who fishes them, what have you done to eliminate that? I know you can run your line of reel coming back and it will get the twist out, but how or what do you do in rigging up a fluke so it can spin freely and not twist your line ?
Barrel swivel with a 2’ or so leader.
Barrel swivel with a 2’ or so leader.
Braid with a leader. Or just straight braid if you don't think the fish can see or care about seeing your line. The braid eats up the line twist. It also allows you to get a hook into them much easier, and to cast them further. Additionally, if you decide to try high-vis braid with a leader (that's what I'd suggest!) you might be shocked at how many more fish you catch. Fishing a fluke is honestly what got me started on high-vis braid several years ago before transitioning quite a few of my setups there. As I'm sure you know, if you don't see a fish bite a fluke you often don't feel a thump when they bite; much like a Senko, they just take off swimming. It was mind boggling just how often I'd see my line take off and be able to catch a fish without feeling for it first, and how much my catch rate skyrocketed presumably due to fish having the bait but dropping it when they felt the resistance of me feeling for bites.
Past that, be EXTREMELY anal with how you thread them onto a hook. The spin reduces to almost zero if you get them hooked straight, but you have to get them lined up perfectly. Last suggestion is to try Big Bite Baits version of flukes. They're denser and therefore heavier than others which helps with casting and action in my mind, but along with that they seem to be more forgiving when rigging them up (i.e. if you're not really careful they'll still work well without spinning). I used to love Gander Mountain's store brand flukes for those exact qualities and was really bummed when "Gander Mountain" was no more for that reason. Then I found out they were made by Big Bite and all is well in my world with flukes again!
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
Appreciate the info man! And yes I know exactly what you are talking about when not feeling any bite. After each time I pop or jerk it, I slowly reel in my line to feel any pressure because idk how many fish I have had spit out the bait due to me popping it again and a fish already had it in its mouth. I'll definitely try braid though. It's funny because I've considered going to braid and a leader on my casting set ups already. I havent tried the big bite baits ones but will look them up. My favorite so far has been the strike king caffeine shad due to how much heavier and denser it is compared to a traditional fluke.Originally Posted by DrewFlu33
Appreciate the info man! And yes I know exactly what you are talking about when not feeling any bite. After each time I pop or jerk it, I slowly reel in my line to feel any pressure because idk how many fish I have had spit out the bait due to me popping it again and a fish already had it in its mouth. I'll definitely try braid though. It's funny because I've considered going to braid and a leader on my casting set ups already. I havent tried the big bite baits ones but will look them up. My favorite so far has been the strike king caffeine shad due to how much heavier and denser it is compared to a traditional fluke.
I attach a small barrel swivel directly to the hook via a small split ring. Adds a little weight and prevents line twist.
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
This
Braid to leader is my solution.
I rig it absolutely straight and twist isn't bad.
The Big Bite ones compare very favorably with a caffeine shad in terms of density I think. The BBB are quite a bit cheaper though, seem to hold up a little better, and they keep the more traditional fluke profile to whatever extent that might matter to you.
If you're not married to the baitcaster and are going with braid anyhow, don't rule out a spinning rod for flukes either! A lot of times, especially in clear water, I've found I can do better with a spinning rod since I can cast it so much further than I can a baitcaster. It also helps me slow down a lot more for whatever reason which often makes a big difference. I've got a medium-heavy spinning rod that I use basically just for that and for fishing heavy tubes. Maybe the casting further and slowing down things with a spinning rod is just for me, though I would anticipate being able to cast a given bait further (albeit less accurately) with a spinning rod is universal for most fishermen.
Good luck!
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
I have a very hard time throwing a weightless fluke on casting gear with ANY effectiveness! I despise spinning gear while I’m bass fishing but my last time out I really wanted to throw a weightless fluke. I used my Daiwa Tierra 3000 on a Hurricane 7’ med action; my saltwater 1/4oz jig rod, and it was so easy!
The only thing I did was put new 30lb Sufix 832 on the reel. It would cast forever, line twist was no issue. With me, line twist is only an issue when I’m working it fast! If, like during winter, most of the bites are coming as the lure is falling slowly...the spinning set up was much easier to feel. It hurts me to say this since I really dislike using spinning gear on my boat; but for the fluke, it’s simply the best way to catch fish!
2006 Triton SP-185, 2006 Evinrude Etec 90, PowerTech NRS3, Garmin Echomap Plus 73CV & 93SV
How much spinning gear do you use in saltwater? Almost all mine was spinning.
Well and that's what I've been thinking, is getting a dedicated rod for flukes since I use them so much , and have been thinking about using a spinning rod for it. Thanks!
Seems like I saw a video where Gary Yamamoto said he’s switched to spinning for everything. Sounded good when I heard it but I just can’t do it. Not yet...
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
In saltwater I use almost exclusively spinning gear, it’s so easy to throw a jig, doa shrimp, Rapala sub walk on spinning gear and I don’t have to worry about wind direction, waves, etc. I will use casting gear in topwaters but that’s about it.
For bass I’m usually target casting so I use casting gear, and frankly I like to fight fish on a baitcaster much more than spinning gear.
The fluke is an odd bird for me, the lack of weight and need for feel is just easier done for me on spinning gear.
2006 Triton SP-185, 2006 Evinrude Etec 90, PowerTech NRS3, Garmin Echomap Plus 73CV & 93SV
I throw flukes on a 7' MH spinning rod, braid to fluoro and throw it a country mile. I like MH because it has the back bone to set the hook further out. I get lots of bites when the fluke hits the water. My hook up ratio seems better with the MH vs M.
My solution with a fluke on casting gear is this.
Use a heavy wire hook (like a superline EWG), make sure it's rigged straight and rig it with a little hump in the back. A little heavier hook adds as a keel better and stops it from spinning, as well as stopping it from flipping over when you twitch it.
I'll have to try the high-vis braid sometime though.
2001 Champion 187 Yamaha 175
12' Talons, Lithiums and Garmins
All pulled by a Hemi
My current set up that I fish flukes on is a 7ft 4 medium heavy casting rod with a steez that has a sv spool in it which definitely helps in casting a weightless fluke a long ways. But I agree with the heavier hook. I use the owner cutting point 4/0 ewg. My hook up ratio has gone up alot since I switched to those from Gamas.
If I switch to a spinning rod, I would go with a MH, especially since i use a 4/0 with them.
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