TX17/RT178 Trolling Motor Rigging Question

[BigEasy]

So I ran across a NOS 2018 TX-17 that just about ticks all the boxes for me.

The one stand out that is not ticked is the trolling motor. From pics on the dealer site the TM appears to be the standard 45lb/12v Minn Kota.

My questions are has anyone upgraded to a aftermarket 24v system and how hard was it if you did?

Thanks for any tips.

[Jeff Hahn]

Pretty easy. I upgraded my Lund to 24 volt. Add a 3rd battery, run a 6 gauge jumper between the TM batteries, and run two 6 gauge wires to the TM plug. Plus, add a 60 amp breaker between the battery and the positive TM battery post.

[fishon396]

I had my 178 upgraded to 24v at the dealer so I am not sure how hard it was but I am glad I did it. It looks easy enough but you may need a different charger and it will be easier to install before you add the new battery.

[n2ratfishin]

Just finished taking off my MK 70 Maxxum trolling motor and I noted that Ranger only put 4 bolts in from the factory. The Ultrex going on calls for six. No biggie drilling a couple more holes. The wiring tube was nothing more than a section of flex tube they had laid down the side and encased in foam. I guess that is better than no tube LOL. I would have rather found a nice solid section of PVC. There was a connection block that was easy to unbolt the existing trolling motor from the wiring running from the battery. The tubes are just laying in there, but they DO run all the way up to the nose of the boat! I have a RT188, seems like the RT178 has the rod locker on the side? If so that makes the job easier in one aspect and tougher in another since the center locker makes reaching the nuts MUCH easier. I was able to reach them all and run the drill gun by myself. I'll get help when installing the Ultrex.

I put my own Lowrance LSS Transducer in back. There is a similar tube running down the drivers side back there. If you don't have 6ga wires already it shouldn't be too bad a job with a buddy's help and a good fish tape. Like Jeff said, adding the extra battery is no biggie at all.

[BigEasy]

Thanks guys. The wiring/battery part I got covered. It's the rigging tube part I am interested in. It's good to know they used it in the 188, hopefully they do it in the 178.

[billwvu05]

All wiring in my 2015 RT178 runs up the driver side through the rigging tubes. Pulling the trolling pedal tray, compartment insert in front of console, and driver cup holder pretty much gives access to everything. You should be set with the factory wiring as it should be 6 ga. I did the same swap to a maxxum 70 and it was a breeze. Only thing I did was upgrade the breaker at the stern to a blue sea 60 amp and put a blue sea terminal block up at the bow as the factory connection was corroded pretty good. Now if I could figure out how to squeeze a 3rd group 31 back there for the cranking battery, I will be set.

[Bill Reynolds]

The batteries just barely fit and you will need to remove the plastic battery holders as they are too wide. Skeeterbait shows how to do it in this post:
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....377&highlight=
I used the plywood floor but did not want to spend the money for the Basscat battery holders so just attached the battery straps directly to the plywood.

[Deerchaser]

2016 rt178, 3 batteries, all in battery trays.

[Bill Reynolds]

2016 rt178, 3 batteries, all in battery trays.

What size batteries? My RT188 came with 2 group 27’s and 1 group 24, but I could not fit 3 group 27’s or 31’s with the plastic trays.

[Deerchaser]

What size batteries? My RT188 came with 2 group 27’s and 1 group 24, but I could not fit 3 group 27’s or 31’s with the plastic trays.

AAs ;). Probably the same as what you had. Ill double check when i get home.

[fishon396]

My 2016 rt178 has 3 batteries in the original trays but they are 2- 27 series and one 24 series. One battery is smaller than the other two. When It comes time for new batteries I might change out the trays.