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  1. #1
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    Trim piston leak?

    Hi,

    I have a 225 Pro XS that's leaking a dark purple-ish fluid out of the top of the main hydraulic piston that trims the motor. I'm sure it's the main center piston, and not the 2 rams on the side because I can see it pooled at the top of that piston.

    The pool of fluid on the ground is roughly the size of a dollar bill if you ripped it in half length-wise. What's weird is, I cleaned it all up about 2.5 weeks ago, and nothing was leaking. Now all of a sudden we have a fair bit on the ground. I was recently doing some re-wiring in the boat, which had me testing that the trim worked, the jack plate worked, the power poles worked, and the motor cranked after I did the wiring. So most likely all that messing around aggravated the leak.

    Here's a few other fun facts:
    • I had the boat winterized and had a basic maintenance/inspection done on it since I just bought the boat 3 months ago
    • I didn't notice the leak before taking it to get winterized, it just started recently
    • This was originally a Florida boat, and is now a Chicago boat enjoying it's first cold winter and 45 degree water (before getting winterized)
    • I keep the boat stored in the garage with the trim down and the wheel turned, otherwise she wouldn't fit


    So my questions are:
    • Is it possible that the leak is caused by the motor being stowed in the down position and/or turned, possibly if they over-filled it?
    • Is this fluid normally purple, or is it something else is leaking?
    • Do places normally fill this fluid up when doing basic maintenance?
    • If it is a bad seal, how do you estimate it might cost/how many hours?


    I plan on calling this place tomorrow to see if they know what's up, or if they "guarantee their work"

    Specs:
    Serial Num: 1b863739
    2012 Merc 225 Pro XS
    Fury 4-Blade 25p


    Thanks for your help!
    Last edited by natrix19; 01-22-2019 at 10:30 AM. Reason: Added required details
    2012 Nitro Z8
    225 Mercury Pro XS

  2. Member
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    #2
    1. No
    2. No Purple Fluid in a Mercury
    3. No
    4. Cost depends on labor rate

    Somebody likely knew about this leak, and added the "purple" fluid.



  3. Member
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    #3
    Alright, thanks Savage.

    The trim sounds fine throughout the range, so I don't think I have a major problem on my hands at the moment. But obviously i'm going to want to get this fixed before putting it in the water again. Definitely don't want water getting into the cylinder.

    Hopefully a job like this won't take too many hours.

    The joy of buying used boats!
    2012 Nitro Z8
    225 Mercury Pro XS

  4. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #4
    If you would, please review the Forum Announcements and update your thread with the Required Info. Thanks!


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
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    #5
    Updated with required info, thanks!

    Also, did a little bit of digging and this fix looks like it might be a do-it-yourselfer. Found a couple of useful YouTube videos.

    I'll probably attempt this in the next month or so, if anyone has any advice to replace these seals, or tips/tricks to be aware of that would be much appreciated!

    Thanks.
    2012 Nitro Z8
    225 Mercury Pro XS

  6. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #6
    A couple tips I would offer:

    1. Have a PRISTINE clean area to work.

    2. Obtain a Factory Service Manual to use as your guide (I would not use "tube" videos as references- a large majority of them have errors that may cost you).

    3. OEM Seal Kit

    4. Spanner Wrenches as required for the components being serviced (trim ram uses a special spanner).

    5. 2 Quarts of Mercury or Quicksilver Power Trim and Steering Fluid on hand.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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    #7
    Thank you sir!

    As you mentioned about YouTube, it's basically impossible to find a video of a specific job with a specific motor...unless you get lucky. But it helps give you the basic gist.

    I have a Seloc manual on the way for the motor, and will be getting OEM parts as you suggested. Gotta love paying $90 for some o-rings! LOL

    The spanner wrench will be the tricky part. My old man might have one (he was a diesel mechanic for a construction company before he passed), if not I'll see if I can rent one from AutoZone or just bite the bullet and buy one.
    2012 Nitro Z8
    225 Mercury Pro XS

  8. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #8
    Mercury Manual- watch the aftermarket ones. Far too broad coverage.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  9. Member
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    #9
    Fair enough. Thank you!
    2012 Nitro Z8
    225 Mercury Pro XS

  10. Member
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    #10
    Harbor freight sells a pin wrench that might work. It is designed to remove the arbor bolt on an angle grinder, but will work in other places. Only question is center-to-center distance on the center cylinder, you probably want to measure. Good thing is the pin wrench is something like $5 bucks and will fit most anything up to maybe 1 3/8" spacing or so...
    2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
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    #11
    Hey guys, I started this repair and everything is going relatively straight forward. However, I can't figure out how to get the shock piston off of the tilt cylinder rod so that I can get the end cap off and change the seals.

    Any tips?

    There seems to be a small pin thats holding it on, but I'm not sure how to remove that.

    Thanks!
    2012 Nitro Z8
    225 Mercury Pro XS

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quick note. Harbor freight pin wrench will not work on the tilt cylinder. The distance between the two pin holes is about 2", the harbor freight wrench can span up to 1 3/8" so it is a tad short. As far as disassembling the piston, is there not a nut on the bottom end that holds everything together?
    2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
    2014 Mercury Pro XS 200

  13. Member
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    #13
    You are correct that the harbor freight one is too small, I bought a nice adjustable pin set off Amazon for $60.

    As for the nut, yes there is one which I did remove.

    I was able then to remove the washer shock springs, keepers, and balls. At this point I'm stuck trying to remove the shock piston itself so that I can get the cylinder cap off to replace the inner seal & o-ring on it.

    Unless there is a different way to get it off that I'm not seeing? Or maybe I'm not supposed to take that off and replace the inner seals? My repair manual says other wise tho

    I'll post some pics in a second
    2012 Nitro Z8
    225 Mercury Pro XS

  14. Member
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    #14
    Ok, so this pic is the piston assembly. The silver part at the top is where the tilt rod locks into the motor and is welded on to the rod. In the middle you see the black hydraulic cylinder cap, at the bottom the shock piston.
    IMG_20190204_155703.jpg
    IMG_20190204_155128.jpg

    I'm currently trying to remove the cylinder cap to change the inner seals/o-rings, and the only way I can figure how to do that is by removing the shock piston.

    The shock piston won't budge on the tilt rod, it won't even rotate. It has a little pin that I'm thinking is the reason I can't move the shock piston, but I have no idea how to remove it or if I'm even supposed to remove it at all. You can see that little pin in the last pic thru that small hole. There's a little tiny hole on the side of the piston to access the pin, which I thought might have been an allen screw, but I don't think so. If it is, I definitely don't have one small enough LOL, but it looks like it's round, not meant for allen keys.

    IMG_20190204_155014.jpg
    IMG_20190204_155030.jpg
    2012 Nitro Z8
    225 Mercury Pro XS

  15. Member
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    #15
    Basically, this is what I'm trying to do:


    But I wanted to make sure this is what's necessary before trying something this drastic. The last thing I want to do is damage anything.
    2012 Nitro Z8
    225 Mercury Pro XS

  16. Member Rick H's Avatar
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    #16
    I always store my boat in the garage motor down year around. Never had a problem till the end of last summer. The boat sat almost 2 months while we where in Florida. I was getting ready to take it out which ended up being the last trip for the season. For the first time ever there was a quarter size of fluid that had leaked past the main ram seals on the tilt cylinder on the floor. I cleaned it up and went fishing. Hasn't leak since and I have left the motor up a little to put more pressure on that seal. The leak was in October and still clean. I wonder if having the motor up a little and not straight vertical is allowing the pressure the keep the seal seated so to speak. Guess I'll be watching it this spring.


    Thanks for posting. BTW Which spanner did you purchase and what size are the pins? I need to check what I already have to see if it will work. Was the cap very tight?

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  17. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #17
    Normally not necessary- I honestly would not recommend attempting to remove it. Best to follow the procedures in the Factory Service Manual (while there are some nice videos on the "tube"... those are usually not a good choice to use as a repair guide as you will often find yourself in a very expensive error).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
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  18. Member
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    #18
    The manual does tell me to remove the piston, just doesn't really say how. If I was to take it into a Mercury dealer for this fix would they remove the piston to replace the inner seals, or would they just do outer seals only?

    Quote Originally Posted by EuropeanAM View Post
    Normally not necessary- I honestly would not recommend attempting to remove it. Best to follow the procedures in the Factory Service Manual (while there are some nice videos on the "tube"... those are usually not a good choice to use as a repair guide as you will often find yourself in a very expensive error).
    2012 Nitro Z8
    225 Mercury Pro XS

  19. Member
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    #19
    I got this spanner wrench, and no the cap wasn't super tight.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The size pins I used were the #6.

    So far the tightest things were the groove pin, the nut keeping the piston valve assembly together, and now the piston itself

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick H View Post

    Thanks for posting. BTW Which spanner did you purchase and what size are the pins? I need to check what I already have to see if it will work. Was the cap very tight?
    2012 Nitro Z8
    225 Mercury Pro XS

  20. Member
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    #20
    When I measured the pin holes, I found the tilt cylinder was 6mm, the trim cylinders were 5mm. Can't swear to those as measuring holes that small with an internal caliper is somewhat "iffy" but I took readings several times and am fairly sure those are correct. Just finished my lower unit re-seal and pressure testing this afternoon (amazing how many things come up that need immediate attention, while I am working on my boat.) Am now fixing to start searching for a good pin spanner to tackle the tilt cylinder. Will have to wait and see if I run into the same difficulty you have described. Probably will take a week to find, order and get the spanner here...
    2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
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