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  1. #1
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    Trolling Motor Connection to Positive Terminal

    ​I have a 80 lb Terrova with an in line circuit breaker ahead of the positive battery terminal. The connection between the breaker & the terminal was originally achieved via a brass or brass plated metal strip with holes bored to bolt to the battery & the circuit breaker. This strip has corroded to the point where it needs to be replaced. My problem is that I have been unable to find a replacement. Does anyone know a source for these brass connectors or an alternative off the shelf way to make a good connection between the battery & the breaker ?

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    #2
    A short length of #6 wire with the appropriate sized terminal ends would do the job. Otherwise you can buy brass stock at many places and bore it.
    https://www.grainger.com/category/ra...&filters=attrs

  3. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #3
    Don't know who makes them. have seen some handmade from brass or copper sheet.
    I have had the plastic coated strips and did not care for them for the reason you speak of. My suggestion would be to get a good breaker that you can mount..and connect with appropriate jumper wire..

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    #4
    You mean like this.? I used stainless, 1" x 0.090"

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=545016

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    #5
    You mean like this.? I used stainless, 1" x 0.090"

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=545016

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by rocket man View Post
    You mean like this.? I used stainless, 1" x 0.090"

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=545016
    That's a nice install. You can get the flat bar from lowes or home depot I'm pretty sure

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    #7
    Mounting the breaker atop a flooded lead acid battery and running wires across its cell caps is not best practice. Corrosive gasses released during charging can damage nearby exposed metals especially copper or a copper alloy such as brass.

    This well may be why you are informing us above that your exposed metal bridge to the breaker is corroded and now needs replaced.

    Better location for the breaker is not on the battery surface but off to the side of the battery opposite of the cell caps avoiding where the released gasses are most concentrated.

    To electrically connect the breaker to the battery consider avoiding the failed metal bar strip method. Use an insulated short battery cable with its connection at the battery terminal protected by an added insulating cover offering it both some added protection from the electrolyte effects and possible accidental shorting.
    Last edited by Lou r Pitcher; 01-18-2019 at 07:45 PM.

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    #8

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    #9
    Question on Rocket mans setup. Is there a circuit breaker similar to the one in your post, that can also pull double duty as a shutoff switch ?

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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Champ 2001 View Post
    Question on Rocket mans setup. Is there a circuit breaker similar to the one in your post, that can also pull double duty as a shutoff switch ?
    Blue Seas makes lots of them that combine both circuit breaking and switching. 187 series

    https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...ers/187-Series
    2019 BCB Classic
    Merc V8 200 4S

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    #11
    Sorry for all the questions, but have another one. If I install this Blue Seas 187 series switch/breaker, am I not going to need a another battery shutoff switch like a lot of boats have installed such as a Perko, etc? I know that power could be shutoff by pulling the breaker that I have now, but I'm thinking that would most likely lead for the breaker to weaken and fail. So I guess what I'm asking, is the Blue Seas 187 series switch/ breaker two units in one that are independent of each other? This seems the way to go instead of a stand alone circuit breaker and another switch to shutoff the power. Thanks for your patience!

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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Champ 2001 View Post
    Question on Rocket mans setup. Is there a circuit breaker similar to the one in your post, that can also pull double duty as a shutoff switch ?
    That is a switchable breaker.

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    #13
    Stainless is nice for environmental and mechanical reasons but it is not a good electrical conductor. Stainless has 30 to 40 times more resistance than copper so keep the cross-section of metal that much larger for equivalent. Brass is a better choice for electrical work.

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    #14
    Thank you all for the feedback. I ordered a flat piece of brass bar stock that I will cut & drill to fit the application.

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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Nwifishnut View Post
    Thank you all for the feedback. I ordered a flat piece of brass bar stock that I will cut & drill to fit the application.
    If the brass is new it should easily accept solder as a corrosion preventive. After machining it might be a good idea to heat it with a small torch, flux coat it, cover it with solder and then clean it with alcohol.

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    #16
    I was thinking about using this for a similar project.

    https://www.amazon.com/SEACHOICE-CIR.../dp/B00YMZIVY6

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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by hookbender View Post
    I was thinking about using this for a similar project.

    https://www.amazon.com/SEACHOICE-CIR.../dp/B00YMZIVY6
    This appears to be the best, and easiest way to solve the problem and for less than $10.00. I'd order a couple.