Talon Install - Wiring the Warning Switch with Additional Green Wire - Question

[kailor]

I'll be wiring my Talons tomorrow and will need (I'm fairly certain), additional wire to reach the ignition switch when wiring the Talon warning-switch. Directions say to use 12 AWG minimum wire. I bought a roll of 10 stranded at Lowe's and it seems very, very stiff. The green factory wire for the warning switch (I believe this is 12 AWG wire) seems rather supple. Did I purchase the wrong wire? Also, what is the best style of connector for bringing each Talon's warning-switch wire into one wire that runs up to the ignition switch?

Thanks in advance.
Keith

[JR19]

In my opinion as long as its 12 AWG it should not matter how stiff/limp it is. I picked up power for my Talons at the ignition key switch so I had to extend my wire a few feet. Only extended the wire what you need because if you add in a ton of slack you can have voltage drop if you have a ton of wire just rolled up so only use what you need. I ran one wire from my key switch to my Talon(s) then I tied both my Talon wires to the one wire I ran from my key switch.

As for getting 12V at the ignition switch, technically you can get your 12V anywhere as long as it's only hot when the ignition key is in the on position. I picked up my power at my key switch but if I had it to do over I would have gotten power from the back of my fuel gauge. The reason I say that is because my ignition switch had a bunch of wires going to it and the post with different wires were close to each other making it a tight fit to add another wire. I recently wired in a Evinrude ICOMMAND gauge and like the Talon alarm it only needs power when the key is on. Through my research I found my gauges has a wire that is only hot when the key is on. The post on my gauges were spread apart and a lot easier to add a wire to than the ignition switch. I just crimped my 12 awg wire to a wire terminal and attached the terminal to the post on the back of my gauge with a nut and star lock washer. I did not remove what wire that was already in place I just stacked the terminal on the nut that was already in place and added another nut and washer.

If you're familiar with using a multimeter, then set it to 12VDC. On the back of your gauges there should be a purple and black wire. It is pretty much standard in the boating industry to wire (+purple) and (-black) to a gauge. Verify the purple is hot + and black is ground - when the key is turned to the on position. You do not have to start your motor all you have to do is have the key turned to the on position. Then verify the purple wire is dead when the key is off. All you need is the purple wire back to the talon alarm wire. You will be getting ground from the circuit where you wired hot and ground on the Talon itself. The alarm wire is just an auxiliary wire that is optional. You don't have to wire the alarm but obviously if you don't then you want have an alarm if you start the big motor and the talon is down.

I wired both my alarms but I can say in the future if I ever do it again I might opt to not wire my alarm. Reason...I have a small amount of hearing loss. The alarm is not really that loud so its hard for me to hear. On a calm day I hear them okay but if its cold and I have on a hoodie or its windy I barely hear them. With that being said I have only started my big motor maybe 2-3 times in 4 years with my talons down so it not like I do it all the time. Plus if you put your boat in gear and the Talons are down you instantly know it because there will be a big grinding noise along with a terrible vibration. Per: owners manual cleaning instructions get your boat in open deep water and deploy your talons and idle a few yards to clean them. When you do this the back of the boat has a terrible vibration and I can assure you that you do not need an alarm to let you know they are down. If you want to hear your alarm before you run a wire to the console just touch the alarm wire + on your battery with the talon deployed and your alarm will sound. Then you can judge if you want to hook it up or not.

You did not mention but...are you wiring your Talons to a disconnect. They do not get wired direct to a power source. You want them on a disconnect so they can have power cut off when not is use. This does two things. 1. it eliminates accidental deployment when not in use 2. it eliminates a parasitic amp draw on you cranking battery.

[kailor]

Wow! Thanks JR19! I'm wiring to a power control switch (red knob...On, Off/Charge, Jumper, etc.). I would think that I can wire my white and black from the Talon to their respective spots on the control switch and not go to the battery at all, and of course green talon wire to ignition switch? Thanks for the help!!!!!

[JR19]

Wow! Thanks JR19! I'm wiring to a power control switch (red knob...On, Off/Charge, Jumper, etc.). I would think that I can wire my white and black from the Talon to their respective spots on the control switch and not go to the battery at all, and of course green talon wire to ignition switch? Thanks for the help!!!!!

It sounds like you're using an appropriate rated disconnect switch. Sometime people use a rocker accessory switch at the dash but they do not have sufficient amp rating to handle two talons. When you say your going to wire the green talon wire to the ignition switch remember what I said in my above reply. Technically it can be on any wire that it is 12V hot only when the key is on. This is "typically" the purple wire.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

It's possible you may have a purple wire under the outboard cowl that is hot with key on.

[kailor]

JR19, understood!

Thanks J. Jones.

[Bassman25]

I like the fact you are using a true disconnect switch. Smart move.

[kailor]

Here is the only purple wire I found...in this wire harness, under the cowling. I'm not cutting into that!

[kailor]

Here is my switch:



Here are the Talons:

[POPPAB]

I did what mr Jones said. Ran a wire from under to cowling

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Here is the only purple wire I found...in this wire harness, under the cowling. I'm not cutting into that!

NO, do NOT cut in or splice there. I don't know about the 4 strokes, but most of the later two strokes have a purple wire located on the starboard side down low. It is used for plugging in diagnostics, but just hangs there when not in use with a bullet connection. It provides 12V with key on so it's and "output" wire. I've used that wire with a bullet connection so it can be unplugged for diagnostics on several installs.
John

[kailor]

Thanks John. What does a bullet connection look like?

[JR19]

Thanks John. What does a bullet connection look like?

Not John but this connector with a cap is probably what he is talking about....https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-So...ag=googhydr-20