replacing guides on an older G Loomis GLX

[coreynov902]

Let me start off by saying that I have never replaced guides on a rod before. I have replaced a couple tips, but nothing more. I have an older GLX MBR844C rod that has a few loose guides. Instead of just replacing the loose guides, I'm thinking of replacing them all for continuity. Here are my questions:

1. I will be using braid on this rod. I was thinking of going with the Fuji K-series guides with an alconite insert. Good idea, or should I upgrade to the SiC inserts?
2. Do you guys file the ends of the new guides down to a point like I've seen in articles and videos, or are the points on the Fuji K-series guides good enough not to need filing?
3. I measured the existing size guides that are on the rod. I'm assuming I should have the same number and size of guides that the rod was originally built with, especially since I'm inexperienced with this. Any reason not to use the original number and sizes?
4. The tip is still in fine shape on the rod. Should I just leave it alone?

Any additional tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated.

[willwork4fish]

1. Alconites will be just fine
2. File them down even if the appear to have a bevel already, makes wrapping them a lot easier.
3. You can put the same size guides on but I wouldn't. Most older rods use larger guides than you see now and they weren't always placed where they should have been. A nice recipe is a KWAG8 for the stripper, then a KBAG6 and then KTAG5.5's for your runners. It'll "modern up" the rod and save you a little weight from what was on there.
4. I'd put a new tip on it. I've come to like Kigan tips better than Fuji's myself but for ease of ordering for you I'd just say get an FAT6 with whatever tube size you need (I like going .5mm larger on the tip than I use for the runners but that's me.

If I was redoing a 7' rod with the above guides I'd order 10 total (1 size 8 stripper, 1 size 7 and then 8 of the 5.5 runners) and then the tip (my guess is that the tip is gonna be a 2.2mm tube but I'd get a 2.0 and a 2.4 just to be safe). You might have one left over guide but better safe.

Biggest pain in the ass with the whole deal will be stripping off the old ones and then getting the blank all nice and clean. Be careful when stripping them, basically all I do is heat up the old finish a little with a lighter and then scrape down the foot of the old guide and then pick at it until you get an thread end and then unravel it. Don't apply too much heat and don't nick the blank. A little more heat and your fingernail should get off the rest of the finish.

A lot of times with an older rod you'll have some discoloration where the old guides came off. If you take a Scotch Brite pad and some simple green to it you can usually get rid of it. I'll take it to the whole blank to get it a uniform color if need be. I've also used some 400 or 500 grit sandpaper to do the same thing. It'll change the overall finish of the rod but as long as it looks even it'll look good.

The rest is just having the right equipment and supplies to wrap a rod. It's not difficult just takes some time. Plenty of youtube vids out there.

[SteveDyer]

great info

[coreynov902]

1. Alconites will be just fine
2. File them down even if the appear to have a bevel already, makes wrapping them a lot easier.
3. You can put the same size guides on but I wouldn't. Most older rods use larger guides than you see now and they weren't always placed where they should have been. A nice recipe is a KWAG8 for the stripper, then a KBAG6 and then KTAG5.5's for your runners. It'll "modern up" the rod and save you a little weight from what was on there.
4. I'd put a new tip on it. I've come to like Kigan tips better than Fuji's myself but for ease of ordering for you I'd just say get an FAT6 with whatever tube size you need (I like going .5mm larger on the tip than I use for the runners but that's me.

If I was redoing a 7' rod with the above guides I'd order 10 total (1 size 8 stripper, 1 size 7 and then 8 of the 5.5 runners) and then the tip (my guess is that the tip is gonna be a 2.2mm tube but I'd get a 2.0 and a 2.4 just to be safe). You might have one left over guide but better safe.

Biggest pain in the ass with the whole deal will be stripping off the old ones and then getting the blank all nice and clean. Be careful when stripping them, basically all I do is heat up the old finish a little with a lighter and then scrape down the foot of the old guide and then pick at it until you get an thread end and then unravel it. Don't apply too much heat and don't nick the blank. A little more heat and your fingernail should get off the rest of the finish.

A lot of times with an older rod you'll have some discoloration where the old guides came off. If you take a Scotch Brite pad and some simple green to it you can usually get rid of it. I'll take it to the whole blank to get it a uniform color if need be. I've also used some 400 or 500 grit sandpaper to do the same thing. It'll change the overall finish of the rod but as long as it looks even it'll look good.

The rest is just having the right equipment and supplies to wrap a rod. It's not difficult just takes some time. Plenty of youtube vids out there.

Thanks for the great information! If I were to downsize the guides to what you recommend, would I keep the placement of the guides the same on the blank, or would I want to change the spacing because of the change in guide size? Also, when using a lighter to heat up the epoxy for removing the guides, approximately how far away from the blank do you keep the lighter, and how long do you usually have to heat it? I just don't want to damage the blank by getting the heat too close or holding it there too long. Thanks!

[coreynov902]

Sorry, but three more questions popped into my mind...first, is it a big deal if you don't have a rod dryer? Second, is standard sewing thread ok to use, or do you want a specialty thread for wrapping the guides? Third, what epoxy should I use? Thanks again for the help.

[willwork4fish]

I listed the guides above (KWAG8, KBAG6, KTAG5.5's, tip is FAT6 and then when you order there will be a tube size next to it).

You'll probably want to change the spacing.

There's a couple of ways to do spacing, one way is temporarily putting the guides on (with tape or bands) running line through them and putting a load on the blank (static test). Then you adjust the spacing so that the line doesn't touch the blank while under load.

Another way is to just go off a spacing chart, you can find them online.

Third way is just to kind of wing it and go from there. Load up your rod and see where the bend ends, on a F action rod it'll be like 1/4ish of the blank from the tip. throw a piece of tape there. In my experience on a MHF casting blank if you start from the tip and place the first guide 3" from the tip and then the next one 3.5" from that one, and then 4" from that one and then 4.5" and so on till you get to that piece of tape you'll be close to where you need to be. After you get to the piece of tape you can add an inch to the distance between the guides progressing down the blank. As long as your stripper ends up somewhere between say 17" and 19" from the reel you'll be just fine 95% of the time. Most factory rods, especially older ones wouldn't pass a static test anyway and people have fished just fine with those for years.

Maybe it's just me since I've been doing it a while but if it looks good it probably is.

For heating the finish up I use a grill lighter, just easier. How long depends on the finish they used, you just want to soften it a little so it's easier to scrap at with the hobby knife. Heat it a little then scrape, if it scrapes easy it's enough, if not heat it a little more. You just need it warm not hot. I just kind of wave the blank back and forth through the flame.

You don't need a rod dryer but it helps, you also don't need to use special thread but again it is better. It's cheap, why not just get the right stuff, you've got to order the guides anyway. The right tools and supplies just make it easier. I've rewrapped guides for guys in a hotel room sitting on a chair holding the rod between my legs and a book to keep tension on 10lb braid for the wraps and then finished it with clear nail polish. It works and it'll hold up just fine but it kind of looks like shit.

I'd suggest just spending a few bucks and getting a basic starter kit. With that you can fix as many rods as you like in the future with minimal future cost and even build some nice ones. Here's a kit that'll get you started relatively inexpensively.

https://www.getbitoutdoors.com/rod-b...-gbstk-wd.html

You can build most of that stuff too, it's not hard. Even a rod turner can be made by re-purposing a rotisserie motor, I've found ones that work at Goodwill.

For it to look good, quality finish is a must. My personal preference is Threadmaster but the stuff that comes with that kit should be just fine.

[coreynov902]

Thanks so much for all the help! I'll definitely look at getting the kit since it looks like it would make things easier.

[willwork4fish]