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  1. #1
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    Ceramic Pro marine Coatings

    Having this applied to my new 2+2 next week. Stay tuned...
    https://ceramic-pro.com/en/shop/prod...roduct/marine/

  2. BBC SPONSOR
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    #2
    Cant wait!
    Fastbass Marine LLC
    We specialize in NEW and USED ALLISON BOATS, Blazer Boats, Platinum Mercury Marine Repower Center, AquaTraction Flooring, and custom marine electronic installations on beautiful Kentucky and Barkley Lakes.

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  3. Member
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    #3
    Interesting
    Allison XB21 Prosport Mercury Racing 250XS with a 1.75 Sporty

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    #4
    Wonder what that would set a guy back

  5. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #5
    I’ve been approached to sell and apply some of these types of products...I’m just not sold on them. I’m sure they work to a point but you still need to wash and care for you boat and I can’t go that long without a marine sealer or wax. Not bashing just not sold.
    BULLET 20 XRD/250 Merc Sport XS
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  6. BBC SPONSOR
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by xb03fs View Post
    Wonder what that would set a guy back
    An old washing machine
    Fastbass Marine LLC
    We specialize in NEW and USED ALLISON BOATS, Blazer Boats, Platinum Mercury Marine Repower Center, AquaTraction Flooring, and custom marine electronic installations on beautiful Kentucky and Barkley Lakes.

    2022 Allison XB-21 BasSport Pro Elite
    2022 Mercury 450R

    2012 Bullet 21ss
    2005 Mercury 300X

    https://youtu.be/FOnAGNWOgZ0

  7. Member
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    #7
    This is just another in the long line of paint coatings out the last few years. Some are silica based, others are quartz, and ALL are pretty darned good stuff as far as protection goes. Many will advertised along the lines of adding 9h hardness to your paint.

    I've been putting coatings on my vehicles as well as clients vehicles since 2013 and they absolutely work. The gloss is better than any other product I can think of, and the hydrophobic properties go a long way towards keeping your vehicles clean. But where they really shine is the longevity. Even the $50 kits like the ones from Duragloss will last a year. The better stuff will last 2~3 years even on vehicles parked outside, and 3~5 on garaged vehicles.

    The down side to a coating is the prep. Being as they are marketed these days semi-permanent, although initially SOME were sold as permanent (those now have 5 year warranties) you MUST - DO - PROPER - PREP. This means chemical decontamination of the paint, as well as a complete and thorough buffing to remove all swirls and scratches. It just doesn't make any sense to 'seal in' swirls when you're not going to do anything else to protect your paint for 1, 2, or 3 years down the road. (Although all have some sort of 'booster' that you can spray on once or twice a year.)
    I did my 2016 Silverado LTZ back in August 2016 and it still beads like crazy, and when it's nothing more than dusty from driving around all I have to do is hit it with the foam cannon, let it dwell, then rinse. Dry it with a leaf blower and never touch it. :-) My wife's car was done in November 2016 and it parked outside 24/7 and it's just now gotten to the point where it needs coating again. Figure if it EVER stops raining here in Ga for a weekend, and we get a weekend where it's in the 70's at night, THEN she'll get her car done. (Hope that happens BEFORE back surgery number FIVE! As right now it's not looking too good.)

    The REAL money on a coating is spent on the prep. I'll spend the first day cleaning, washing, decon, IRON-X the paint, drying, taping off etc. to get ready for days 2~3 (if not longer) buffing, then allow a day to apply the coating, and at LEAST overnight to cure. It's not uncommon to take 3~5 (or more) days to do a coating. I've spent 30~40~50 hours on more than I can remember.

    The products themselves however are plentiful these days. Used to... there were 3~4 GOOD ones to choose from. Now... I can't even remember all of them. One of my favorites is GTechniq as they have a very broad line of dedicated coating products for wheels, glass, plastic, paint, interior, leather, cloth, you name it. Problem with them is they have SO MANY different products, and ways to 'layer' them that it's easy to get over your head. Even when you know what you need however it's not hard to end up with $200 worth of product alone going on a vehicle! The up-side to that is you do away with the waxing every couple months, or AT LEAST applying a sealant twice a year.

    Honestly, "wax" is something of the past. While us old farts throw around the word "wax" as in old school carnauba wax, that simply isn't what is coming out of the bottle these days. Plus... it is FAR from what you really want to use, and it's by far the least durable product. SURE it's great for that extra 'glow' for a weekend car show, but it'll be gone after a wash or two. Most all 'waxes' these days are some sort of polymer product, IE "sealant" (that's a good thing). Many "marine" polishes (as they are labeled) are nothing more than a "sealant", BUT they tend to add a PTFE base (IE Teflon). Star Brite is one name that you've seen mentioned a lot in boat forums, and many companies have a very similar product, from Meguires, to Bass Pro, and a LOT of products from Palm Beach Motoring Group (AKA Autogeek).

    Short of a ceramic coating (again either silica or quartz based product), a PTFE sealant is about a good as you're going to get on a boat.
    Later,

    Dixie Chicken

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    #8
    I have several friends that have this same product applied on their vehicles and / or boats. It is simply amazing. Spray it with a foam cannon, let sit a few minutes, and rinse. no scrubbing unless it is caked on dirt. The application I elected is good for 3 years with a top to bottom, front to back guarantee.

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    #9
    I recently had my boat and truck ceramic coated with opti coat pro. So far I am very pleased with the results. Yes, you still have to wash them but cleanup is so much easier and the long term protection should keep our rigs looking great for years to come. I have a 5 year warranty on the coatings. I figure if they actually last anything over 3 years I'll be happy. It is costly to do a boat. Most 20' boats done at a professional shop will cost you $2000 or more to get done right. Vehicles are about half that. It's tough to swallow but I just bought my "forever" boat so I went for it.
    Chris Coupel
    Paulina, La.

  10. Blazer Boats Moderator Rebel1's Avatar
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    #10
    A buddy of mine who had a fiberglass shop says to do not put this on a boat. Something about it getting in the pores and in 3-5 years it will have be sanded off and the whole boat will have to be re-shot. He could explain it better.
    Last edited by Rebel1; 01-18-2019 at 01:51 PM.

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    #11
    Rebel, I hope that is not the case! I can't look back now because it's done. I just don't see why in 5 years it couldn't be compounded, buffed, and ceramic reapplied?
    Chris Coupel
    Paulina, La.

  12. Blazer Boats Moderator Rebel1's Avatar
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    #12
    Chris, ask Doug McGee on the LA Fishing board. He said it works great on painted metal surfaces but not fiberglass.

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    #13
    Chris, I wouldn't be worried about any harm or damage to your gel coat from a coating.
    All paint is porous, so I'm not really seeing the problem there.

    What perhaps MIGHT be a concern with a coating, on a BOAT is the hull is in the water MOST of the time. Where a vehicle only sees water when it rains. This absolutely will have an impact on the longevity of ANY COATING, or anything else for that matter.
    That may be what some guys are thinking in their head, when they say that a coating isn't any good for a boat.
    I can tell you though that the best thing you can possibly do is coat the vinyl, plastic, rubber, seats, and any paint that is above the waterline. Because a coating provides UV protection, period! They even make products for carpet, although honestly..... I can't see it for a bass boat. File that under cost vs reward.

    As for multi-year warranties. YES, a coating is *somewhat* permanent. And they all provide a sacrificial barrier, on top of your existing paint (be that single stage or base coat clear coat). In the early days, Optimum provided a "lifetime" warranty on their "pro" coatings, and suggested the rest would last (without a written warranty) 3~5 years. NOW they've realized that NO COATING IS ABSOLUTE, nor are any "PERMANENT" (even PAINT isn't permanent), and with that... their warranty now is 5 years. BUYER BEWARE - - - - As with the "lifetime" warranty, the new 5 year one requires that the vehicle be detailed annually, and inspected by your qualified installer. Failure to do so can (and most likely WILL) void the warranty.

    WHY you ask??? Because all of them (or at least every single one I've ever seen) has at least SOME sort of "topper" or "booster" that can be applied at any time, and with some, they even have specific products that are designed to be layered with the initial application. This doesn't mean that the underlying product is somehow inferior, just that to maintain optimal performance, a little spritz of booster goes a long way.

    Some of the thicker coatings DO have to be buffed when reapplying 3~5 years 'down the road'. That isn't to say that you'll see layers of cracking and hazing like a failing clear coat, or that there is some sort of inherent *problem* with the coating however. The fact is that you ALWAYS want to do paint correction before applying a coating, ALWAYS! BECAUSE it's (at least compared to a sealant or wax) considered a 'permanent' top layer. Doesn't make ANY sense to apply a top layer, that will last from 2~3~5 years and NOT do a total correction of the surface prior to application.

    As for sanding..... Some coatings in fact, if applied improperly (IE too thick) will look strange and have to be sanded or buffed immediately when they are NEW to remove the improperly applied product and correct it. (Don't ask me how I know!) I've yet to see a situation however where a properly applied coating could even be considered to cause damage (to whatever surface it is applied to).

    There are also different performance goals with various coatings. Some are very slick and very shiny. Others not as shiny. Some sheet water better, where *most* bead water like crazy and have a minimum 110° "slip angle" for the water droplets. Which basically means that any water droplet sitting on the surface goes beyond a 90° right angle all the way to 110° (or greater) which makes the water literally slide right off the surface. This is also why some manufacturers have several coatings, yet they can be layered to provide the best of both worlds (when it comes to protection). GTechnic Crystal Serum as a base, with EXO on top is one. Either is a GREAT coating by itself. But both really take it to the next level.
    Later,

    Dixie Chicken

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    #14
    I thought gel coat was non porus? That's why you can clean it with acid and it not permeate into the glass.



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    #15
    I've been on the fence as far as coating my boat for almost a year now. A product that has been formulated specifically for marine use is what I have been waiting on. The data just backs up the benefits to me. What I have not seen is data for boats. Soon I expect a report back telling us how it worked out. I'm as lazy as the next guy I guess. I'd rather spend the time and or money now and not have to scrub so hard, and wax so often on my boat. I'll do it to keep it looking great but I'd rather not. That takes away from fishing and going out to just run and have fun.

  16. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by chad202 View Post
    I thought gel coat was non porus? That's why you can clean it with acid and it not permeate into the glass.


    Gel is porous...
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    #17
    I can say so far that I'm very impressed with the coating on the boat. It makes cleanup very easy and the boat looks even better than new shine wise. I'm pretty particular about how my equipment looks and the "booster" that was provided as part of the package is great. It really works great as a drying agent and is superior to any type of spray detailer like lucas slick mist or eagle one wax as you dry as far as a dirt repellant or shine booster. It is more expensive of course at $30 per bottle but requires much less product to do the entire rig. I use it after each wash. Only time will tell of course and I'll be glad to give an honest opinion on longevity as time goes by.
    Chris Coupel
    Paulina, La.

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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by shapfromla View Post
    I recently had my boat and truck ceramic coated with opti coat pro. So far I am very pleased with the results. Yes, you still have to wash them but cleanup is so much easier and the long term protection should keep our rigs looking great for years to come. I have a 5 year warranty on the coatings. I figure if they actually last anything over 3 years I'll be happy. It is costly to do a boat. Most 20' boats done at a professional shop will cost you $2000 or more to get done right. Vehicles are about half that. It's tough to swallow but I just bought my "forever" boat so I went for it.
    See, that's me when it comes to washing.

    Most of the time it's not even touch the truck. Grab the little electric pressure washer and knock the dust off. Then grab the foam cannon and give it a good coat with Meguiar's Hyper Wash, top to bottom, front to back, the go back over it and hit it again. The foam will dwell on the surface and pull the dust/dirt away. At that point I generally disconnect the pressure washer and rinse with a hose. Good solid rinse, then use an easy rinse and sheeting action to pull most of the water off the surface.

    Finally, grab the dedicated leaf blower (IE it's never blown leaves, only vehicles) and blow it off.

    I did my truck when it was new in 2016 and it still gets clean most of the time with nothing more than the above steps. Some areas

    When it's dirtier than a foam and dwell will remove it's time to get out the buckets.

    FIRST.... you have to use 3 buckets, and grit guards for all of them. (I double stack them in all my buckets.)
    1: clean soap ONLY
    2: clean rinse water ONLY
    3: wheels ONLY

    Wheels are to be done first. Use Meguiar's Non-Acid wheel cleaner, along with Hyper Wash in the bucket. Grab a Daytona brush, a Wheel Woolie, and a 1" boars hair brush for the wheels, with a stiff bristle tire brush for the tires. Always to wheels first, so that you're not sitting in the wet when doing your wheels. Takes me a GOOD 10 minutes per wheel (and wheel well) to get them done. Typically 45~60 minutes for the wheels, running boards, rocker panels, wheel arches, springs (that can be reached) shocks, control arms/suspension pieces, mud flaps, and of course both bumpers.

    Paint is done with a CLEAN microfiber mitt on the lower areas, with a Merino Wool mitt for the upper areas. Only moving in straight lines, and never flipping over the wash mitt without pulling it off the surface and rinsing in the #2 clean water bucket, THEN putting it back into #1 soapy water bucket.

    Of course this is how I do ALL vehicles, which includes mine as well as clients. As I mentioned above, my truck has had a coating since August 2016 and I'm thinking in the spring I'm going to do a light buff and put another one on. I *can tell you* that it still isn't scratched and swirled all over like I see in BRAND NEW vehicles. I told them NOT to wash it when it came in, which quite honestly, helped ENORMOUSLY back then, as well as now. Only took me 2 days buffing to get it 100% corrected that first time, INSTEAD OF 4 DAYS after they are swirled top to bottom. LOL

    My wife's car was new 11/16 and hers is parked outside 24/7. Even with 4 car garage, and the new 'she shed' for the boat we don't have room for hers. While her car still has a great shine, and the swirls are at a minimum all things considered, it HAS lost most of it's hydrophobic properties. Both vehicles are getting the full GTechniq CSL & EXO dual-layer coating this time. Along with G1 on the glass, C4 on the trim, C5 on the wheels, C6 matte on the dash, as well as leather and fabric protection. Have 2 kits ready and waiting for my back to get better long enough to get both vehicles done this spring.
    Later,

    Dixie Chicken

  19. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #19
    Friend of mine that I used to show/build cars with bought a new black Vette last year .... brought it straight to me to get the finish correct. Funny how people think new paint is right because it’s new.
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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by crank68 View Post
    Friend of mine that I used to show/build cars with bought a new black Vette last year .... brought it straight to me to get the finish correct. Funny how people think new paint is right because it’s new.
    Isn't THAT the truth!


    Had a fellow order one of the new Stingrays, 3LT, waited forever for it back a couple years ago. When he got it he knew he wanted coating on it, but he had to leave the country for 8 weeks.

    His sons bring it to me, brand new (Laguna blue) and I started on it. Once everything was decontaminated, wheels pulled, and everything taped off I got down to inspecting the paint. On the rear spoiler there were THREE smudges like a baby hand had gone down it in a near vertical manner, in the BASE COAT! Not the clear, but the base coat itself. Three lines the height of the spoiler all the way through the base coat. THEN it was cleared. THEN it was mounted to the bumper cover. And LAST BUT NOT LEAST.... IT WAS ALL mounted to the car. How in the WORLD that made it past ANY sort of inspection is beyond me.

    After sitting on the car for 2 weeks I was pushing for them to come get it. Owner was still out of the country. Son's came and got it, and when I showed them the flaws in the paint that I'd photographed and fixed they were blown away. THEN I showed them the part I CANNOT fix. The part that never should have left the factory. They actually THOUGHT they might try and say I did it. Oh heaaaaaaaallll naawwww. That's not on me, that's the white glove treatment in Bowling Green!
    Later,

    Dixie Chicken