2019 Lynx 250 pro xs 4s trouble getting on pad

[Wicked31]

I’m new to basscat coming from a ranger z520. Looking for advice on jack plate and trim height. I recently picked up a ‘19 Lynx with a 250 4s pro xs, 24p fury. I absolutely love the boat so glad I switched from ranger. It seems to take a lot of trim to get it on pad the gauge is about 1/2 way. Once it gets there it absolutely rips. This past weekend with a lot of boat wakes it really struggled to get on pad. Full tournament load, livewells full, fuel about 1/2.
Any advice is appreciated thanks in advance.

[billius]

If you haven't done so already, I'd post this on the BassCat Owner's Board on their website. You may get a faster answer, although BCB does check in here almost daily as well.

[mike464]

Trim it all the way down, if you're running a hydraulic plate, move the plate up at least 1/2 to 2/3 of the way and see if that's better, drop the plate as it breaks over. I've got a Lynx and it jumps out of the water, I'm running a SHO.

[brinson]

[QUOTE=mike464;9948445]Trim it all the way down, if you're running a hydraulic plate, move the plate up at least 1/2 to 2/3 of the way and see if that's better, drop the plate as it breaks over. I've got a Lynx and it jumps out of the water, I'm running a SHO.[/QUOTE
Good advice here, get the hydraulic jackplate and raise it on the launch to vent the prop. As far as running on the pad, the my Lynx is weight sensitive and with the huge storage up front, it's easy to load it too heavy up front which affects how soon it gets on pad. My boat does not really pop up on pad till nearly 50 mph.

[Bass Cat Boats]

We monitor this board, though usually get to it late.

Be sure that all of the PVS holes are open. That can be improved with extra holes added to the propeller. Different than a Ranger is to trim all the way in and don't touch the trim till the nose falls over, then move it in steps, not stand on the trim. If you have a hydraulic jackplate, then that can be assisting if you raise it for hole shot, helps venting, and then lower it for performance. The Lynx is one that can get some help from the hydraulic plate, though it is not necessary. The other options are different propellers and those we would wait till more is known on your situation.

In California you have an excellent resource in Boatmaster's and they will go out of their way to help.

[KH59]

Wicked31 you say hard to get on pad but not clear if that means on plane (hole shot) or on pad after break over to maximize speed? Trim at 1/2 seems a lot for a BCB hull so it might be as BCB suggested and that you are on the trim too hard to fast. Also not sure if you are using a hydraulic JP or fixed plate and what the heights might be.

[mike464]

Wicked: that hull doesn't climb all the way out till it hits about 50mph, is that what you're experiencing? Or are you just asking about holeshot? You're welcome to PM me.

[Wicked31]

Wicked: that hull doesn't climb all the way out till it hits about 50mph, is that what you're experiencing? Or are you just asking about holeshot? You're welcome to PM me.

That’s probably what I’m feeling. It feels like it has a lot of drag then all of a sudden just takes off. But it was very difficult to get it to that point in rough water.

[proptwister]

Wicked: that hull doesn't climb all the way out till it hits about 50mph, is that what you're experiencing? Or are you just asking about holeshot? You're welcome to PM me.

This is how mine runs as well. Many good points on here. Mine does best with the plate down at lower speeds. If I keep the plate high at lower speeds the nose of the boat tends to want to hunt direction-wise.

BCB made a comment about adding throttle then trimming to gain speed. Spot on. When you start adding trim, at about 50 MPH you will feel the hull start to lift out of the water and speed increases quickly.

It certainly takes seat time. But I absolutely love my Lynx!

[Rick McFaul]

Thanks.... the hunting nose was concerning. When you say plate down at lower speeds are we talking all the way down? It's kind of interesting how everything is almost exactly 180 degrees opposite from previous boats in terms of motor settings. I'll get her dialed in!!!

[proptwister]

Thanks.... the hunting nose was concerning. When you say plate down at lower speeds are we talking all the way down? It's kind of interesting how everything is almost exactly 180 degrees opposite from previous boats in terms of motor settings. I'll get her dialed in!!!

Yes, all the way down. I have memorized where my plate needs to be to get the best holeshot. With the 300, holeshot is NOT an issue at all. But with the plate in this raised position, if I pull the throttle back and keep the speed low (under 50 or so) the nose will tend to hunt back and forth. I can either throttle up and bring the boat up on pad or lower the plate deeper to stop the hunt. Personally, I'm usually throttling on up so my hair is on fire! Once up on pad (approximately 50+) I then start trimming up and the speed really begins to climb quickly.

Mine seems happiest running about 45-50% on my trim gauge. By myself but with a full load (way too much crap in the boat!) and 3/4 fuel, 75-76 all day. Last weekend with myself and two 210+ college kids, 72-73. Like all performance boats, it can start to chine walk a bit. But if you stay on top of the slight steering corrections you can easily control it and drive it with one hand. I'll get slammed here, but I never use my hot foot. Hand throttle only!

I've had mine a little over a year now and still learning. Indeed, at first it was intimidating, especially as I was coming from a Tracker 195 with a 150!

You have a top notch rig there Rick! More seat time is all you need!

[Rick McFaul]

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to start with the plate down all the way. As the boat accelerates I'll trim up and raise the plate up in small increments until she feels right.

[Wicked31]

What I’m referring to when I say on pad means already planned out but trying to get on the running pad to maximize speed. Hole shot seems fine and I usually start trimming it up once the bow comes down. On semi calm water I’ll trim it till I feel the boat start to pull while watching the water pressure them stop when the pressure drops slightly. I just ordered the hydraulic jack plate through my dealer and I’m sure that will fix the problem since I can play with it to find the sweet spot.

[OldTimer57]

What I’m referring to when I say on pad means already planned out but trying to get on the running pad to maximize speed. Hole shot seems fine and I usually start trimming it up once the bow comes down. On semi calm water I’ll trim it till I feel the boat start to pull while watching the water pressure them stop when the pressure drops slightly. I just ordered the hydraulic jack plate through my dealer and I’m sure that will fix the problem since I can play with it to find the sweet spot.

This is really not the right way to adjust the trim. Take off, hands off trim until nose falls over. Then start to trim in steps. You do NOT use water pressure to determine proper trim, you are probably going way too far if you do that. Watch the speed on your GPS, and tweak trim until that peaks. That is the optimal setting. You can do this a few times and learn where to set it on the trim gauge, or after driving a while you will be able to set the trim based on boat performance/handling/feel without the trim gauge. You can always look back at the motor. On the trailer, level the motor with the trim, then find something on the cowl that is also level (IE on the optis you can use the mercury logo on the side of the cowl). Once you have found a reference that is parallel to the prop shaft, when you are running down the river, that reference line you found should be horizontal (parallel to the surface of the water). I've run a few rangers and tritons that like the trim WAY up there. Not so on a bass cat. They don't run with the bow pointing at the sky, they run pretty flat due to the shape/design of the hull...

A little steering torque is necessary, usually. But I would not use that to adjust the trim. You have a much more accurate instrument (GPS speed) to help you zero in on the right trim setting.

[mike464]

I'll send you a pm. It will show up in Notifications at the top of the page, on the right side

[ZeroSix]

Wicked31 - I came out of a 520C 250 ProXs and into a Lynx - 250G2 and LOVE IT! It's a different boat all together - ride, performance, hull, design, people who build and stand behind them. It took me several hours on the water and in different conditions to get a feel for things. I am sure you will get plenty of great advice here but if you'd like, feel free to PM me and I give you the Cliff's Notes.

[Wheelman]

My opinion based on what you posted I'd try a 4-blade prop that'll have more blade surface area and therefore more natural lift, as you may have been loosing some bite in the choppy water.

[brinson]

My opinion based on what you posted I'd try a 4-blade prop that'll have more blade surface area and therefore more natural lift, as you may have been loosing some bite in the choppy water.

I thought the same way and tried a 4 blade. The boat ran too flat and it lifted the stern up too high.

[Wheelman]

I thought the same way and tried a 4 blade. The boat ran too flat and it lifted the stern up too high.

What 4-blade exactly? Diameter makes a difference as well, did the boat run better as there was less hydrodynamic drag?

[brinson]

Fury 4 25p. I was about 1-2 mph slower.