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  1. #1
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    Question 15 Amp and 40 Amp fuses

    In below pic you see a black fuse holder that contains a 15 amp blade fuse. You also see a blue holder which contains a 40 amp fuse.
    Is this normal to see on crank batteries?
    Can you speculate what they may be for without tracing wires?
    Their wires lead into a large set of zip tied wires that make me nervous.
    http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2e3tziw&s=9

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    #2
    The 15 is probably the auto bilge and the 40 probably goes to the console for the power to everything. Not sure what the 25 amp breaker is for or the other little one with connections on it. Just me, but I couldn't handle all that. Spray some dawn soap mixed with water and wash it all off and trace the wires and try to eliminate the mess. Get you a couple of terminal blocks, one for the power and one for the ground and wire stuff to those.

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    #3
    Just take the fuses out one at a time and see what doesn’t work

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    #4
    Thank you both.

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    #5
    You can't tell from fuse size, and know how you got the boat who knows what fuse was replaced with the 15A and the 40A. You're going have to cut the zip tie and trace.
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    #6
    That is approaching a "rats nest". Per above, a couple of terminal blocks would simplify the mess at the battery. Those cheap automotive battery post clamps are oxidizing away. There are some pretty nifty terminal blocks with fuses that will help.

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    #7
    Thank John and Billnorman. What type terminal blocks with fuses are good?

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    #8
    Did you buy the boat from someone?
    The grey breaker with the reset button looks corroded and being tilted like that I bet that the interior is corroded as well.
    My experience tells me that it would be a good idea to remove clean and coat each connector and terminals.
    You may want to replace the connection strip that BCB uses which is located on the transom plate. Switching it out with a positive and negative stainless steel bus bar cleans up a lot as well as eliminates a number of potential problem connectors.
    https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/mobi...oduct=47996833

    I also installed a fuse block similar to this under the driver's console for all the accessories.
    https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/mobi...oduct=47996897
    And something similar to this for the battery breakers to guard against any shorts.
    https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/mobi...oduct=47997043
    One last thing is that the on board battery charger should have a fuse for each positive line to each battery.

    Good luck with a great opportunity to set everything up properly.
    Dwayne
    Last edited by D-wayne; 01-10-2019 at 06:38 AM.

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    #9
    I can’t see his photos. When I click on his link,it goes to Tiny Pics, and says there are mature women in Spring Hope looking for me. Turns out,they aren’t.

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    #10
    Oh my. Don't know how that happened. I can only get pics up with that TinyPic website but no clue about why that. Sorry

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by D-wayne View Post
    Did you buy the boat from someone?
    The grey breaker with the reset button looks corroded and being tilted like that I bet that the interior is corroded as well.
    My experience tells me that it would be a good idea to remove clean and coat each connector and terminals.
    You may want to replace the connection strip that BCB uses which is located on the transom plate. Switching it out with a positive and negative stainless steel bus bar cleans up a lot as well as eliminates a number of potential problem connectors.
    https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/mobi...oduct=47996833

    I also installed a fuse block similar to this under the driver's console for all the accessories.
    https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/mobi...oduct=47996897
    And something similar to this for the battery breakers to guard against any shorts.
    https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/mobi...oduct=47997043
    One last thing is that the on board battery charger should have a fuse for each positive line to each battery.

    Good luck with a great opportunity to set everything up properly.
    Dwayne
    Yes I bought the boat from a pro over a year ago. Yes that grey shortstop is corroded as hell and exposed wire coming out of it. It's a 50 amp rigged to a freaking Power Pole that I've learned everybody knows only requires a 30. So I have safety issues all over this thing. None of which I rigged. I've been dealing with serious engine issues and everything else. I haven't even gotten my electronics interference issues resolved that I post about in Humminbird forum. This wiring quest all started when my trolling motor shut down a few weeks ago. That issue ended up being something simple (a loose nut on one of the positives). I thought it was a circuit breaker issue. I posted a picture and someone commented about a breaker being rigged wrong and wires incorrectly fused etc. So now I'm obsessed with cleaning it up.
    Are you telling me BASSCAT BOATS didn't install a good quality connections strip on their premium line boat? I've seen it mounted on the transom wall.
    There is a strip mounted with a whole bunch or black wires and another with a whole bunch of red wires. They're separate strips I believe. Are you saying to combine the two with a block such as one of your links?

    There are fuses on each wire to each battery on the charger. I assume that came that way on the MinnKota charger. Otherwise I'm sure it wouldn't be rigged correctly.

    And yes that's an excellent way to state it. A great opportunity. I'm proud to have all this stuff and folks on here are very helpful. But when it comes to getting in there and doing it I freeze up. I have no background in this and will likely take it to someone as many have suggested. But the more information I get the better I understand and the better I'll understand where things are at on my rig and where to check when something goes wrong.
    Last edited by BassCatKev; 01-10-2019 at 09:18 AM.

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    #12
    That boat didn't come from Basscat with that wiring mess.

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    #13
    I owned two Bass Cats. They weren't immune to electrical gremlins one of the two had been butchered, one with lamp cord and one connector going to the control panel had so much corrosion that I had to jumper around it.
    I doubt it left the factory like that especially those battery post connectors.

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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Danbleume View Post
    That boat didn't come from Basscat with that wiring mess.
    It certainly did not. The dealer does the rigging, but, judging from that mess, the previous owner likely did a lot on his own or had an incompetent dealer. I have had three Cats, and none of them looked remotely like that.

    As far as the two terminal blocks inside the transom, from the factory, their purpose it to daisy chain the wiring from the boat's harness so that all you are left with is one positive going through a 25 amp switchable breaker and then to the battery, and one negative going directly to the battery. If they have not been tampered with, I would leave them alone. Only suggestion is to keep them from corroding by using a dielectric compound. If they have been tampered with and possibly re-arranged, then, that is a different issue.
    Last edited by catdude28; 01-10-2019 at 01:47 PM.
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    #15
    Kevin, a lot of wiring is in the correct harness when the boat shows up at the dealer. Dealer does the prep. Yours looks like it was done at the ramp before a tournament, or on the water when something didn't work. I've seen boats of all makes looking like that. Stay with us and keep asking questions and we'll help the best we can. A typical wiring (for someone that knows how to properly wire for aux units) for a boat with the depth finders and powerpoles is at this link.
    depth finder wiring.jpg
    John
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by catdude28 View Post
    It certainly did not. The dealer does the rigging, but, judging from that mess, the previous owner likely did a lot on his own or had an incompetent dealer. I have had three Cats, and none of them looked remotely like that.

    As far as the two terminal blocks inside the transom, from the factory, their purpose it to daisy chain the wiring from the boat's harness so that all you are left with is one positive going through a 25 amp switchable breaker and then to the battery, and one negative going directly to the battery. If they have not been tampered with, I would leave them alone. Only suggestion is to keep them from corroding by using a dielectric compound. If they have been tampered with and possibly re-arranged, then, that is a different issue.
    I get it. I just assumed the transom terminal block was BassCat's. Which I guess it is. I have CRC Dialectric grease. It's clear colored. I put it on my graph plugs, charger plug etc. I wire brush my terminals and they look fine. But do people just glob it on the battery terminal and wire leads? If it helps I'll do that. I kind of agree with Billnormal that those Automotive add ons on the battery look terrible. And I actually replaced them in the last year. I just want it to be clean, safe, and understand what the heck everything is.

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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonestrollingmotor View Post
    Kevin, a lot of wiring is in the correct harness when the boat shows up at the dealer. Dealer does the prep. Yours looks like it was done at the ramp before a tournament, or on the water when something didn't work. I've seen boats of all makes looking like that. Stay with us and keep asking questions and we'll help the best we can. A typical wiring (for someone that knows how to properly wire for aux units) for a boat with the depth finders and powerpoles is at this link.
    depth finder wiring.jpg
    John
    Thanks

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    #18
    Yes, the terminal block is done at the BCB factory. In my rigging area, I put dielectric grease on any of the connections that have exposed metal to help prevent corrosion.

    It sounds like you are starting to get a handle on tracing sources back and re-doing things as they should be .

    I admire your patience and perseverance, knowing the huge, drawn out issue you had with your Suzuki, and now, trying to sort out the wiring.
    2019 BCB Classic
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    #19
    I'm a fellow Suzuki powered bass boat owner. I am a cheapskate so anything I do is first motivated by safety, secondly by reliability, and thirdly by money. In the case of expensive, I might just compromise 1 & 2 for 3.
    Anyhow I forgot who the author of this post was , I just actually didn't look. He had a ton of problems and Suzuki finally tore his motor down and reassembled it, I don't think they found a problem or if they did they didn't say.
    Any time you have a lot of small wiring coming off either battery terminal it invites confusion and problems. Loose laying wires add to that confusion. I would think a bad connection to any vital motor system could induce gremlins. Anyhow, if he carefully installs new terminal strips, fuse blocks or buss bars, it would streamline that area and make charging, inspecting or changing batteries a lot easier. He has the best bass boat for the price IMHO and a really good motor and should spend many trouble free hours on the water.
    I got a HUGE laugh at Johns comments. Way to go Jones!
    A good addition to anybody's repair kit is Liquid Electric Tape and a really good pair of crimpers, not those ones in a cheap car repair kit.

    If anybody is interested in a true tragic saga of frustration, Kev's journey can be found at Engine shuts down followed by 3 beep alarm.

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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by catdude28 View Post
    Yes, the terminal block is done at the BCB factory. In my rigging area, I put dielectric grease on any of the connections that have exposed metal to help prevent corrosion.

    It sounds like you are starting to get a handle on tracing sources back and re-doing things as they should be .

    I admire your patience and perseverance, knowing the huge, drawn out issue you had with your Suzuki, and now, trying to sort out the wiring.
    So you would literally place dialectric grease right on the metal where all those screws are into that terminal block on the transom wall? What about those yellow crimps that go to the terminal ring? Can I put liquid electrical tape in and around those to keep moisture out?

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