Ordered this. But if you have any issues with this type or brand please let me know and I'll cancel order.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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BEP701 came out of package just like this. I thought it would have a back piece as some similar ones did I saw on You Tube.
It will function the same just a different part number so mounting may be tricky...
What your going through is why I package a complete kit intended to do what your looking to do.
https://hydrillagear.com/collections...ery-switch-kit
Sounds like your having a heck of a time with this... Hate to see it as its relatively straight forward.
If you find its too hard to mount that 701 you have and end up returning it let me know and I will include 2 inline fuse holders with the price of my switch kit which includes all the wire and connectors your going to need. I will also include butt terminals to wire the fuse holders in place if you want to cancel that order as well I know its only 8 bucks. I will send fuses with it as well if you need them..
All the dealers here are pretty much leading you down the same road. Jones has spelled it out for you when it comes to the wiring and he is right on so follow his direction.
Regards
Rich
Last edited by Hydrilla Gear; 01-16-2019 at 07:37 PM.
This is my battery situation. No containers like how I've seen some mounted.
What do you mean by containers?
The battery trays or hold down brackets in this picture is typical OEM BassCat Battery Hold downs.
Yes I know. I'm saying I've seen those switches installed right into battery trays on some boats. I was saying I don't have that mounting option.
Gotcha. Can't say I have ever seen that but I guess its an idea..
Last BC I rigged I built an L bracket, mounted the L bracket to the bottom side of the compartment opening lip then mounted the switch to it. You could basically open the rear compartment from outside the boat reach over and turn on/off the switch. Just a thought
Oh you may be looking at that piece of wood. I didn't put that there. That was installed for previous owner and had an extra gas pump mounted on it. I couldn't find anyone who thought it was a good idea or thought it was necessary for the Suzuki 250ss (it was not a Suzuki product). Pump was taken out but wood mount piece was left because it's not hurting anything. Just another unnecessary and confusing rigged accessory that was recommended to be removed. I sent the pic to show no battery trays. I like the angle idea. As you know I have a 20A rocker switch installed under front lip of bilge that's accessible while standing outside boat. I'd like to continue using those two holes since they're there now.
I would get as many of those ring terminals off the batteries as possible, remove that non-waterproof rocker, and find a spot (if possible) to wall mount terminal studs, and your battery cutoff.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Groun...a-570576879033
ABYC recommends a maximum of four terminals on any one battery stud. There could in fact be more than four wires connected, as each terminal could have several small-gauge wires inserted into it. I prefer to get ALL of them off I can and on the separate studs then brush them with dialectical grease to prevent corrosion. This makes battery removal easy and safe and identifying a problem easier.
Last edited by mikesxpress; 01-17-2019 at 06:19 AM.
That switch looks like a "flush" mount and doesn't have the sides or holes. It is intended to be flush mounted on a surface, with a hole drilled in the surface for the studs to go through, then wires connecting from behind the panel. There is a difference somewhere in the part number, or it's in the wrong package. I know you're deep into it now and hindsight is better than foresight, but asking someone like me or Hydrilla Gear to get you a Kit (As you know, I build custom harnesses so you get all you need) then you wouldn't have had to piece it together. But as of know, you have some things you can work with. That switch will work, and you still can attach it to the tray as you were intending, however, you're going to have to get some insulator caps to go over the wire connections.
John
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Friday 8am-12pm
Garmin Certified Dealer and Installers: Call us for all your Garmin Electronics needs!
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Well, it's done. I ended up not using the 4 gauge wire from battery to switch. We mounted the new Blue Seas switch onto the plate that once held the 20A rocker switch that BassCat apparently installed. It is very solid when turning switch. No slop. We installed 10 gauge fuse holders (containing a 40A blade fuse) into wires of both pumps (no fuses previously existed). All wiring was able to be exited out bottom side of switch. I had removed the "top" plastic strip before realizing I didn't need to. I taped that back on and wrapped with electrical tape to keep most water from falling through. I said WE in this post because Nitro88 did most of the work. Earlier in this thread he offered his help. I MAJOR SHOUT OUT to him. I just can't maneuver and work with wiring down low in a bilge area very well. I most certainly would have ended up taking this project to a boat shop if not for Nitro88 (Lee). Although we live in the same general area, I had never met him. He stopped by and spent several hours helping me get this done. And refused to allow me to compensate him in any way. I only had to round up a few bolts and nuts afterwards to finish up. There really are some helpful people out there and this forum brings them together. I can't thank everyone enough.
I'll try to post some pictures this weekend of my setup.
I used the 40 amp blade fuse from advance and (2) BWD waterproof fuse harnesses from Advance and a battery cutoff switch.
Last edited by javelin90; 02-08-2019 at 07:54 AM.