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  1. #1
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    190 Thru hull fittings




    I posted this in the restoration section but thought it might be better to get some advise from Champion owners. I cleaned out my bilge are today to find out that the live well pump thru hull fitting has been loose and the live well re circulation thru hull fitting had a crack in it both failing and leaking. so the small piece of plywood these fittings go thru is pretty wet. I dont think this piece is connected to the transom because from what i can tell the transom is dry and solid stringers are also very dry and solid. ( i have a fan blowing thru the holes hopefully it will dry up nice)With that beings said i have read somewhere not to use stainless or brass thru hull fittings is there a reason for this? Also i have looked and the only thru hull fittings i can find that is recommended for below water line is brass and stainless. What are the best thru hull fittings yall recommend? And is there a special procedure to installing? 3M 4200 im assuming?

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    #2
    I used stainless and I sure do hope nobody gets on here and gives a scientific explanation as to why stainless is bad; because I do NOT want to ever re-do mine!

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    #3
    Ok,Grout-Scout I will keep my mouth shut!

  4. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


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    #5

    I used the same ones 86 inches used, different name on the package; but they were the same.


    There was an mention of the metal shrinking in that thread, plastic shrinks in cold too,almost everything shrinks in the cold.

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    #6
    yea that was a good read. Thanks 86 inches. i will probably use the same myself.

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    #7
    I got my Thru Hull fittings in and im gonna install this weekend. The wood was soaking wet and has dried up pretty good i think. with that being said do i need to do anything to the plywood before installing thru hull fittings with 4200? I have read and watched people (you tube) using epoxy around the hole, let it dry and then use 4200 on fittings? Is this something i should do? or will the 4200 keep it pretty dry? I dont have any epoxy resin handy but i could get some if i needed to.

  8. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #8
    I epoxied mine with the epoxy from west marine. Several thin coats. Seemed to make sense at the time.
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Redman79 View Post
    I got my Thru Hull fittings in and im gonna install this weekend. The wood was soaking wet and has dried up pretty good i think. with that being said do i need to do anything to the plywood before installing thru hull fittings with 4200? I have read and watched people (you tube) using epoxy around the hole, let it dry and then use 4200 on fittings? Is this something i should do? or will the 4200 keep it pretty dry? I dont have any epoxy resin handy but i could get some if i needed to.


    I’m not telling you what to do, but I’m just gonna make a suggestion from experience. Did you heat lamp the holes for a week or so, if not you really might want to make sure it’s really dry first.

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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by grout-scout View Post
    I’m not telling you what to do, but I’m just gonna make a suggestion from experience. Did you heat lamp the holes for a week or so, if not you really might want to make sure it’s really dry first.
    had a fan blowing on it 24/7 and kept my garage about 75-80* for over 2 weeks. I did not have a heat lamp on it. As small as that is(just guessing prolly 4"x8") i didnt think it would need it. I will get one an put it on there if you think i need to.. Just to give me some piece of mind that plywood piece is not connected to the transom correct? from what i can tell inside the hull it is separate.

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    #11
    I’m not positive how they are constructed exactly, I know my 2005 is tied together because I had wet foam that was draining to the transom and out my left transom hole. But maybe you got it dried if it’s not wet anymore.

  12. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #12
    If you do a search in this sub forum you will find that the guys that know about this sorta thing are very adamant about drying the transom with heat lamps. Double check but I think they say two weeks.

    I would do it. If you seal it up with moisture still in it, it will rot. The heat lamp can completely dry it and save the transom. I think you need to pull the top trim piece off to do the heat lamp thing.
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by 86 inches View Post
    If you do a search in this sub forum you will find that the guys that know about this sorta thing are very adamant about drying the transom with heat lamps. Double check but I think they say two weeks.

    I would do it. If you seal it up with moisture still in it, it will rot. The heat lamp can completely dry it and save the transom. I think you need to pull the top trim piece off to do the heat lamp thing.
    I pulled the trim piece on the top of the transom last night. it looks to be fiber-glassed over. i just bought the boat last month and i plan on taking motor off and resealing the jack plate holes. I will put a moisture meter on it at the holes and see what it says. i will hold off on putting the thru hull fittings in until i know for sure if everything is dry.

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    #14
    Stick a piece of wire (or toothpick) down into those screw holes and see if it feels solid or comes out wet. I like your way of thinking and playing it safe and taking the time to make sure it’s fixed right.