Just figured I would upload some pictures of the Livescope install I did on my boat. May give someone some ideas as to what to do with theirs.
The transducer cable length wasn't a problem, but the limited length on the network cable and power cable was. After weighing some options, I decided to give up some tackle space up front and install inside the driver's side tackle box compartment. This did a couple of things: 1) Since the cables are short, it allowed me to get to the unit and a power source 2) I didn't have to permanently drill into anything that couldn't be replaced, which was a concern considering the connectors are over an inch in diameter 3) I have easy access to the status lights, etc. The tackle box insert itself can be replaced, so years down the road, if I get tired of having holes there long after the technology gets outdated, I can replace and don't have to worry about big holes in the rod box, etc.
Worked out well and the box insert, although pretty thin, seems to hold the box in place really well. As you can see, all cables are run back out the front of the box.
The install instructions call for dedicated power off the battery for the Sonar Unit. I thought about just tying to the busbar on the front of the boat(same one both head units are powered by), but didn't want to tempt fate and fry something, so I went with the install recommendations. Can't speak on the RT188, but the 178, has a terminal block buried behind the right wall of the cockpit. It's where the wiring off the main breaker is downsized before going to the fuse block. If your boat was built on a Friday like mine probably was, the wiring back there is a bit of a rat's nest. There's always a chance that you can fish it back through the hole where the fuse block is mounted, but I wasn't that lucky so I needed to take half the access panel off to barely get my hand back there and fish the block out. This also included loosening the five mounting screws holding the console in place to get enough room to work. Once I pulled it out, I took the terminals off the block and routed them back through the conduit that runs under the console so I wouldn't ever have to deal with that again. I also ran the sonar unit power cable back into that same area and out the conduit.
I used the terminal block by adding a second terminal to the output side to power the sonar unit.
Because I will be leaving the block under the console, I now have access to it in the future as well as the fuse block that's on the sonar unit power cable. I fed the ground wire for the sonar unit to the grounding bar that is located on the underside of the console where all the console electronics are grounded.
The transducer cable and sonar both run out of my trolling motor pedal well and out to the unit and transducer mounting pole. I borrowed the idea from here of using a piece of angle iron to attack two units to my sonar mount. That things was a bit of overkill for one unit and seems sturdy enough to hold both without an issue.
You will need to drill some pretty large holes in both the tackle box and the pedal tray in order to route the cables. The largest connector was an 1 1/4" in diameter. For me, doing it this way, I can replace both trays through Ranger if I ever remove the unit.
As for the transducer, I have an Ulterra now so options are limited and I'm not a fan of the saver mounts (specially not for a $1000 transducer). I ended up using an old mount that I had for my jon boat from Fishing Specialties. Works well so far although I have not water tested, but no trolling motor interference or anything to worry about. It mounted fine to the pole, although you will have to route the cable externally.
Hopefully this may give some folks a few ideas and options...even if the boat is different than mine. I know there aren't very many install guides out there so just figured I would throw my experience out there.
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by Pipercub
