Blue Sea Safety Hub 150

[bqtoot]

Anyone ever use one of these? Getting ready to re-wire my boat's electronics, etc, and ran across this. Would solve many of the issues I am running into.

[flatsboy]

Great piece used in alot of Salt Water boats proven tuff.

[Garage Dog]

I haven't used that particular piece but I used Blue Seas equipment exclusively when I rewired my boat...quality stuff.

[WjColdWater]

I haven't used that particular piece but I used Blue Seas equipment exclusively when I rewired my boat...quality stuff.

Same.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Havn't used that one and honestly can't figure where you would use the 100A+ fuses on a bassboat. Would suggest with Blue Seas to go with something more like this:

Plenty of room for sizes of fuses you will need. I would run 6ga from the battery pos and negative to this block

[flatsboy]

If you need anything greater than 30 amp fuses then you would. Power poles are 40 amps stereo amps could be 50 plus amps. The safety hub 150 is designed to handle the load and lots of it. Where the normal 6 or 12 circuit ST Blade Blue Sea like above is limited to total of 100 amps per panel and a max of 30 amp circuit.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/502..._Bus_and_Cover

[D-wayne]

I like the second picture of the fuse panel.
If you are running fuses for any shallow water anchors I would suggest that you have inline breakers. I used relays to turn the power on/off from the dashboard.
Once you install the new fuse panel you will wonder why the manufacturer did not use the panels in the first place...

[Jonestrollingmotor]

If you need anything greater than 30 amp fuses then you would. Power poles are 40 amps stereo amps could be 50 plus amps. The safety hub 150 is designed to handle the load and lots of it. Where the normal 6 or 12 circuit ST Blade Blue Sea like above is limited to total of 100 amps per panel and a max of 30 amp circuit.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/502..._Bus_and_Cover

If you're going to be running 40A and 50A service off the same fuse block as the "other" fuses, you're going to need a ground / positive feed to carry everything as if it was all turned on at once. As stated above, Shallow water anchors should have individual breakers as should a stereo system. I'm not questioning the load carrying capacity of the fuse block, but for it to work properly a person needs to make sure the supply is enough to carry it.
John

[bqtoot]

Thanks for all the feedback. Been researching this for a while now. My problem began with my 4 graphs powering off during engine start. Currently everything (engine start, power poles, Acc. panel, engine trim etc.) are connected directly to the battery! Power to my graphs are currently coming from the accessory panel under the console and it's been causing the problem. With no cutoff switch to anything in the battery compartment, and a lack of some fuses, I've been concerned about a fire. After a whole lot of research I think I may still go with the Safety Hub 150 in the battery compartment. Engine start, power poles, acc. panel, and now graphs feed will come from the midi fuses feeds with appropriate fuses to match. The graphs feed will lead to a Blue Sea 5026 in the starboard rod locker. The rest of the accessories and trim will go to the ATO/ATC feeds. Although it may seem like the graphs feed is still sharing power from essentially another accessory panel and would encounter voltage drop again, speaking with a blue sea rep., he said it should not since the midi fuse feeds are higher rated feeds. Let's hope not!
I'm also installing a cut off switch between the battery and the safety hub 150 with a battery terminal fuse at the + battery connection.

[flatsboy]

If you're going to be running 40A and 50A service off the same fuse block as the "other" fuses, you're going to need a ground / positive feed to carry everything as if it was all turned on at once. As stated above, Shallow water anchors should have individual breakers as should a stereo system. I'm not questioning the load carrying capacity of the fuse block, but for it to work properly a person needs to make sure the supply is enough to carry it.
John

This unit is designed to carry loads of accessories greater than what is commonly found in small bass boats. It also makes for a cleaner installation with less wiring and being able to wire it with 4 gauge directly from a selector switch everything is located nice and neat and in one place not scattered across the boat.


https://www.bluesea.com/products/774...150_Fuse_Block

[Jonestrollingmotor]

This unit is designed to carry loads of accessories greater than what is commonly found in small bass boats. It also makes for a cleaner installation with less wiring and being able to wire it with 4 gauge directly from a selector switch everything is located nice and neat and in one place not scattered across the boat.


https://www.bluesea.com/products/774...150_Fuse_Block

According to your link, to achieve the 200A rating, should be wired with 2/0 cable. To go to the 350A, one 4/0 cable, to go to 600A would need 2, 4/0 cables. A 4 gauge ain't gonna work to get the 200A rating. If you don't need the 200A rating then why would you get this one (rhetorical questions, don't expect an answer)