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  1. #1
    Member rammerjammer's Avatar
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    You got it, another trailer thread!

    Alright folks dummy this down for me. I just found that I've got a rear seal leaking, oil all over the inside of the front starboard wheel. I am going to attempt to make this repair and have looked through several post on here about parts which has helped a bunch.

    So you walk the cap off with a mallet and a 2×4. Take the cotter key out, nut retainer & nut, and outer bearing out.

    What holds the hub on the spindale!? (Keep in mind this is my first attempt)

    Then inner bearing, rear seal, and o-ring comes out.

    Thanks!

  2. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #2
    This isn’t rocket science, but it’s not a trivial thing to do. Tighten the bearings wrong and you’ll end up losing a wheel.

    The nut is what holds the whole works together. When you take the nut off, the whole thing will just pull off. If you have brakes on that axle, things get much more complicated.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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  3. Member rammerjammer's Avatar
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    #3
    No brakes. And I believe the nut is 18 to 20 in/lbs or hand tight based on the literature i just read.

    But thank you, that assured me how it works!

  4. BBC SPONSOR / PHOENIX MOD DREWTICK's Avatar
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    #4
    Drewcraft Specializes in Lithium Batteries and Chargers, We carry all Brands of Trolling Motors and Graphs, Minnkota, Lowrance, Garmin, Motorguide
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  5. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by rammerjammer View Post
    No brakes. And I believe the nut is 18 to 20 in/lbs or hand tight based on the literature i just read.

    But thank you, that assured me how it works!
    You have to tighten by feel to get minimal play.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    You have to tighten by feel to get minimal play.
    I was always told to tighten it down pretty good, then back the nut back off a little and just snug it back up

  7. Member rammerjammer's Avatar
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    #7
    Thanks again guys. This has helped get my mind wrapped around how this works.

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    #8
    I just did this last week. Not as bad as I thought. Make sure you have a drain pan under the hub when you get the cap off. The rear seal was a pain to get out. Don't forget to use red RTV sealant around the new rear seal just before installing it into the hub. When you are ready to install the hub make sure you snug the nut while turning the hub (20 ft lbs) This helps seat the bearings. Then loosen the but and then hand tighten it. Also wait about an hour before putting the grease in (cure time for the sealant).


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  9. Member TX721's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by GBhoss View Post
    ...Don't forget to use red RTV sealant around the new rear seal just before installing it into the hub... Also wait about an hour before putting the grease in (cure time for the sealant).
    I replaced rear seals on two of mine a couple of months ago. Forgot the RTV. We’ll see how long before I’m doing them again.

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  10. BBC SPONSOR / PHOENIX MOD DREWTICK's Avatar
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    #10
    just for reference, for you guys who have serviced theirs did they all or any have the hole for the Zerk Fitting?
    Drewcraft Specializes in Lithium Batteries and Chargers, We carry all Brands of Trolling Motors and Graphs, Minnkota, Lowrance, Garmin, Motorguide
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  11. Member rammerjammer's Avatar
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    #11
    Yes, I'm looking at mine now.

  12. Lowrance/Garmin/GPS Moderator fishin couillon's Avatar
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    #12
    Why do you need RTV sealant if the seal is suppose to keep water out grease in?
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  13. Scraps
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    #13
    Tightening my nuts down correctly had always scared the crap outta me. Can't use a torque spec. All by feel......nuts.
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  14. Scraps
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by TX721 View Post
    I replaced rear seals on two of mine a couple of months ago. Forgot the RTV. We’ll see how long before I’m doing them again.
    I think you kin put a bead around the outside? I'm thinking tit's a lot like the old Ranger COOL hubs.
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  15. Member rammerjammer's Avatar
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    #15
    Is it safe to say the o-ring Marine Master sent with the race, x2 bearings, and cap is for the ring that seals the cap to the hub?

    When I took my hub off the spindle, the race was a pain to get out. I put a screwdriver under the seal to try and pry the race out and there was a o-ring between the bearing and race. I finally got the inner bearing and race removed and grease cleaned up but noticed the o-ring for the cap was still in the groove.

  16. Scraps
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    #16
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  17. Member TX721's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by TX721 View Post
    I replaced rear seals on two of mine a couple of months ago. Forgot the RTV. We’ll see how long before I’m doing them again.
    One 70 mile round trip to the lake and one is leaking. I must have seated it wrong. I was surprised it leaked. I’ll need to redo it and won’t forget the RTV this time.

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  18. Member TX721's Avatar
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by fishin couillon View Post
    Why do you need RTV sealant if the seal is suppose to keep water out grease in?
    Not sure but there was one on there when I removed the original. I agree with your question. I have replaced many rear seals and never used RTV.

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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by TX721 View Post
    Not sure but there was one on there when I removed the original. I agree with your question. I have replaced many rear seals and never used RTV.
    I think it is because the grease turns to oil when hot and RTV will make sure the oil does not leak out.


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  20. Member TX721's Avatar
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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by DREWTICK View Post
    just for reference, for you guys who have serviced theirs did they all or any have the hole for the Zerk Fitting?
    Yes. They did.

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