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  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    20

    Adding a switch for electronics?

    First of all I just want to say that I do not have a great understanding of wiring electronics so I may ask some very simple questions or some questions that do not even make sense.

    So I have two new Garmin Echomap plus 93SV graphs that need to be installed. I also have a Lowrance HDS 9 and a structurescan 3d box currently installed. The HDS/SS3D are both run directly to the cranking battery with the appropriate fuses and such. With these two new graphs (and the livescope box in the future) I do not want to run the wiring in the same way. It would be a mess to have a power cable from the HDS9, the Structurescan 3D box, the console Echomap, the bow Echomap, and the Livescope box all individually routed to the same battery.

    Am I on the right path thinking that I can install new switch board on my console that has a single positive and a single negative running to the battery, and from there wire each graph/box to the switch board?

    If that's possible I know ill have a lot more questions, like if I can use one switch for the entire electronic system or if I need one switch for each piece of the system, what gauge wire to run from the battery to the switch, if I should just put a new battery on the boat dedicated to electronics or continue using the cranking battery, etc...

    I appreciate any input! I plan on taking my time on this and doing it right. I dont mind missing out on some winter walleye fishing if i can be rigged right for prespawn bass.
    2019 Z18

  2. Member vapredhunter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Rocky Mount, VA
    Posts
    262
    Angler's Choice Martinsville VA

    2015 Ranger Z518c


  3. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Wayzata, MN
    Posts
    197
    #3
    predhunter has you down the right track. Fuse block is the way to go.

    I'm not intimately familiar with the 93SV, or Garmin in general, but I'm guessing once all set up, you may want to install a NMEA network, so there is 1 more power run, bringing you to 6.

    I and many others use Blue Sea fuse blocks: https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...locks/ST_Blade

    For your setup, the 5025 (6 circuits) would be about perfect. That said, I would suggest a bit of "future proofing" and look to the 5026 (12 circuits) if space allows.

    The fuse block is typically installed under the console or in a storage locker. Run - and fused & switched + from cranking battery to block, then individual - and fused + from block to each load: http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...-5026_5031.pdf
    Last edited by Dave in Mpls; 12-05-2018 at 10:06 PM.

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    20
    #4
    Thank you guys for the information. After seeing the Blue Sea example I was able to find plenty of threads on the forum with further information. I appreciate it
    Last edited by PNW John; 12-06-2018 at 03:51 AM.
    2019 Z18