Winterizing Question

[mattfish11]

Merc Serial # 2B223384

Getting to be cold in the North East and I’m going through my boat/motor to get any water out that can sit (livewells, bilge, hoses, etc). One of the things I’m not clear about it is if I need to run some of that RV anti-freeze through my outboard. If so – how do I go about doing that? If I can rig up a pump to fit into the external flush connector on the bottom cowl – can I just pump the RV Anti freeze through and be done? Will this circulate through the cooling system?

[Fishysam]

If it's still liquid water in your outboard trimming all the way down and up letting it sit for say 10 seconds longer than it drips in the down and same with it up say 2-3 times is plenty

[mattfish11]

If it's still liquid water in your outboard trimming all the way down and up letting it sit for say 10 seconds longer than it drips in the down and same with it up say 2-3 times is plenty

Thank you sir... I do this after every trip out... Just wanted to take extra precaution in case there's some water trapped in there somewhere!

[EuropeanAM]

Refer to your engine owner's manual. Engine needs to be parked and STAY in the DOWN position during freezing weather.

[lpugh]

Refer to your engine owner's manual. Engine needs to be parked and STAY in the DOWN position during freezing weather.

FMI (For My Information bank) If the speed pressure port is plugged with debris would there still be a risk of freeze damage since it may not be able to drain the water out, seem like the risk would still be there. Not a problem for me as it rarely gets under 30 deg. and my boat is kept in my garage. As most no longer fret over this port being plugged up, I think very few would even think about that being a problem these days. Makes me wonder if clearing it and permanently sealing both sides might be something to consider

Thanks

[Hunna]

I always store the engine in down position so what ever is left in it will drain.

[mattfish11]

My fear stems from the last time I was out - near freezing air temps... Tilted the motor down when pulled out but on the ride home it rained/sleet and when I parked it - I wanted to make sure there wasn't anything frozen. I tilted the motor down and some drips came out - but I wouldn't be surprised if some ice-up could have occurred on the way home?

[EuropeanAM]

FMI (For My Information bank) If the speed pressure port is plugged with debris would there still be a risk of freeze damage since it may not be able to drain the water out, seem like the risk would still be there. Not a problem for me as it rarely gets under 30 deg. and my boat is kept in my garage. As most no longer fret over this port being plugged up, I think very few would even think about that being a problem these days. Makes me wonder if clearing it and permanently sealing both sides might be something to consider

Thanks

You are correct, Leon- we do see this from time to time. IF the pitot port is plugged in the nose of the gearcase, and water is trapped in the passage, it can freeze and burst the passage into the gear lube chamber.

Very difficult to find- and not really a repairable item (replace case is the correct repair method).

This can occur even with the engine trimmed all the way down.

[mattfish11]

You are correct, Leon- we do see this from time to time. IF the pitot port is plugged in the nose of the gearcase, and water is trapped in the passage, it can freeze and burst the passage into the gear lube chamber.

Very difficult to find- and not really a repairable item (replace case is the correct repair method).

This can occur even with the engine trimmed all the way down.

Where is this pitot port? I might as well check to make sure it's not plugged...

[EuropeanAM]

Leading edge of gearcase, a couple inches above the propshaft centerline (bullet/nose of gearcase).

[MichaelJ3]

Don, whats the recommended procedure to "unplug" it if it is plugged...

[EuropeanAM]

HAND drill with a 1/16" bit. That's by hand- no power or rotating tools. Takes patience... and it's a deep passage. DON'T attempt to blow compressed air through the passage (backwards) as it may damage the seal/gasket on the shift shaft plate.

[MichaelJ3]

So, how long of a BIT? How deep do we go?

[dkibat]

I blow air thru the speedo and water pressure tubing, it alway's has some water in it not much but worth the effort. I have push loc fittings installed on the lines just before the gauges.

[EuropeanAM]

So, how long of a BIT? How deep do we go?

Varies- not all cases are the same (even within the same series).

You should normally have reached the end of the blockage by 1.765" deep.

[MichaelJ3]

Varies- not all cases are the same (even within the same series).

You should normally have reached the end of the blockage by 1.765" deep.

Thanks Don, Will add this to my list of winterizing procedures/checks in future years...Hope its not plugged this year, my rig has been in storage for 2 months already.

[mikesxpress]

The pitot tubes on these engines need to be removed as they are worthless just as the ones on the Opti were. Anything/everything plugs them up and most are using GPS for speed in addition to replacing the "lie O meter" on the dash with something you can use/trust like a Merc monitor or other.... Similar reasoning for me disconnecting/removing the water pressure tubing off the engine that would feed the water pressure gage. I went to all Smartcraft gages and resolved a bunch of common issues.

Don how about a permanent fix for this as most of us never use it. Fill the tube with???

[EuropeanAM]

Don how about a permanent fix for this as most of us never use it. Fill the tube with???

I have (successfully on a couple of occasions) filled the entire passage with thin, slow-setting epoxy and left it sit over the weekend.

Passage clear- shift shaft cover completely off, verified for certain the correct passage, small amount of epoxy from top side until it came through the pitot tube, close off tube by taping over it (or plugging it).

Fill to within 1/4" of the top of the passage and let it set.

Finish off passage to capacity with short-set epoxy before reassembly.

Note: Both of the units I did this with had already frozen and fractured. Afterwards: No further leakage.

So I guess if you wanted to permanently do away with the passage, this would be an option.