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  1. #1
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    Question Rigging minnows fro crappie

    Jigs or bare hooks (long shank or short shank?) and why one over the other? Different rigging for a vertical presentation (12ft crappie rod) versus having to cast out and reel in.

    Going back to my last outing of the year, which ended up being quite successful, I struggled with getting solid hook ups for quite some time. I normally use jigs when I fish artificial and hooks when I use minnows. I was casting to my target with a long shank eagle claw hook, a single split shot about 8" up and a small rocket bobber between 2-3ft up from the hook. Rod was a 5ft ultralight. The further I was away from my target the more missed hooksets and/or fish coming unbuttoned I had. I tried changing to a short shank, and even a jig, without much difference. The only thing that seemed to improve my landing ratio was to be closer to the target. I don't have this issue with bluegills.

    Was my struggle due to the equipment? The rigging?

    I purchased a couple 12ft rods since then and that should help with a vertical presentation near the boat. But what about when I am forced to cast? What do I need to change to increase my hookup percentage? Should I invest in some circle hooks?

  2. Member
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    #2
    Get you a 7ft rod for casting and you will not have such an issue. I changed over from shorter rods to nothing but 7 footers for casting jigs and such many years ago and it makes a difference all the way around. You will be able to cast a light jig further, take up more line on a hookset, and it will also give you more leverage to fight bigger fish. I see no downside to them at all in comparison to a 5.5 or 6 footer.

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    #3
    Ultra light is the problem, Go with a 7' as mentioned above. Light action with a fast tip.

  4. Member
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    #4
    Longer rod and maybe try some no or low stretch line.

  5. Member
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    #5
    I've been using St.Croix 7' SCIII 1 piece rods. Build my own and really like them for pitching jigs. A longer rod really helps with a hook set.
    Great rod for crappie !

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by D.O.C. 989 View Post
    Longer rod and maybe try some no or low stretch line.
    I'm using 6lb cammo Mr. Crappie, and 6lb Suffix cammo. Both are mono. I don't like the fluoro on a small shallow spool. I've got 8lb fluoro on my bass spinning setups. Think that is too heavy for 40-50* stained water? I'd rather not buy another dedicated rig if I don't have to. I really don't have much room to spare in my rod locker.

  7. Member
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    #7
    My advice is to get you a spool of fireline crystal in 6 lb test and give it a try, it is what i use for my casting purposes. I also run 5 lb test 1 lb diameter power pro for casting. I like both but the fireline seems to handle better in most conditions. If you try the crystal make sure to wet your knots before cinching down. It is not needed to do that for the power pro. I would almost bet you get better hookups without changing anything but using the fireline or power pro.

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by slonezp View Post
    I'm using 6lb cammo Mr. Crappie, and 6lb Suffix cammo. Both are mono. I don't like the fluoro on a small shallow spool. I've got 8lb fluoro on my bass spinning setups. Think that is too heavy for 40-50* stained water? I'd rather not buy another dedicated rig if I don't have to. I really don't have much room to spare in my rod locker.
    I don't use fluorocarbon either. I use P Line or Suffix. That's what my local bait shop stocks and I just buy it from them. I use 4lb for casting jigs and 6lbs for other stuff. I will use 8lb on occasion for specific reasons but not much. I only use 7ft rods or even longer jigging poles. You can take up a lot of line with a 7ft rod but you can really take up a bunch of line with a 10-12' jig pole. They are great for vertical fishing but the 7 footers are the way to go for casting anything, minnow rigs included.

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    #9
    edit
    Last edited by SPOONMINNOW; 09-13-2020 at 07:45 AM.

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    #10
    I am a believer in the tru-turn aberdeen type hooks.

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by SPOONMINNOW View Post
    Advice from someone who catches 700-1000 fish per year (5 months):

    5-6' light action spinning rod
    The action allows setting the hook after the fish has begun the hookset even at a long distance and without pulling the hook out.
    A medium action rod will not do! Shorter rods also allow better long distance hook sets and feel.

    8# test Kastking braid is soft, thin, no stretch and easy to cast 1/16 oz lures long distances, plus you can feel the change in line pressure when fish strike. If fish are striking fast & furious, no leader is necessary. If the strikes are light, I use 1 1/2' of 6# test P-line fluorocarbon as a leader for a better light lure action than braid can give the deeper I fish. (Kastking is cheap along with free shipping on Ebay and holds up great vs other brands I've used.)

    Unpainted ball head jigs and one of a thousand soft plastic lures pretty much catch all freshwater species. I also get my jigs from Ebay and with no collar (because of something I invented to keep lures up on the jig). Jig weights I use are from 1/32 - 1/16 oz. No sickle hooks! Bronze hooks in sizes #8 (smallest) to #2, are matched to lure length used as well as jig weight. Many jigs in different weights come in different hook sizes. Note: the hook should come out at less than half the lure's length. Always check for hook sharpness and proper gap!

    One suggestion to start out is to try a 2" Crappie Magnet (troutmagnet.com) with a 1/24 or 1/16 oz jig and #6 hook. Color optional or whatever suits your fancy. (Though I don't care for black or white.) The action of the lure is subtle when retrieved slowly and with slight changes in retrieve speed at the right depth. In warmer water, fish can be shallow or deep in the same lake. In cold water, deeper is usually the norm as well as vertical jigging in position.
    Crappie Magnet:


    As I said, the sky's the limit when it comes to soft plastic lure choices. Here are examples of lures that will work on catching 5 fish species on
    any given day:
    1.5" of the tail of a plastic worm


    Soft plastic cone tail grub with float:


    Try a Beetle Spin in warmer water over 50 degrees

    (Used with a shortened Charlie Brewer Slider Worm (rig on the right)


    And with plain jig.



    IMO straight tail plastic work better than curl tails because I can work them as any speed and especially slow.
    I appreciate the time you put into the response but was really looking for advice with minnows. That being said, I don't have hookset issues with bluegills or sunfish. It's only with crappies. I don't know if it's because they are becoming lethargic because of the water temp as I usually only target them with water temps in the 40's. Maybe it's the way they grab the bait. Maybe it has something to do with their jaw structure. Or as I earlier posted, my equipment.

  12. Member
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    #12
    I have been hooking my minnows through the eyes for years. Usually use a small jig 1/16th or 1/32 and small Mr. Crappie rattle bobber. Setting the hook was the one thing I had to overcome. Finally learned that if I just started to reel, I landed more fish rather than trying to cross their eyes with a hook set. With their mouth so paper thin, I was ripping a hole and the fish would get off.
    Just my method that works for me.
    John

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    #13
    Hook just in front of the front fin on top of minnow or up through mouth and out between eyes. Keep hooks sharp. Second to ‘born to fish’ with not setting hook due to tearing holes in mouth area.