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  1. #1
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    Stratos 200 leak

    I've got a leak in my 2003 Stratos 200. While fishing, about every hour or so my auto bilge pump will kick on, pump water out, then shut off. So today, I filled the bottom of the boat up with water. I submerged all the pumps, and fittings through the transom thinking it would be one of them. I left the water in there for a good 20 minutes and not a drop came out.

    So now I'm thinking it would have to be the bottom 2 bolt to jack plate bolts? I don't see anywhere else it could be leaking. Is there something else I should look for? Assuming it is those bolts, can I just pull them out one at a time and put the appropriate sealant in it? I'm assuming that sealant would be 5200, but not positive. Thanks for all the help, never had to try and find a leak before. -Clayton.

  2. Member dlewis10's Avatar
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    #2
    Can't help with the leak. As for sealant, 5200 is permanent stuff and will rip gel coat and fiberglass if you ever try to remove it. 4200 might be a better choice. Or any quality below water line silicon. I've used Star Brite marine silicon with good results.
    1993 Champion 190
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  3. Member OkieLure's Avatar
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    #3
    If you ever want to tighten or pull off the motor, 5200 won't let you. Use 4200 clear.
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  4. Member Bassnailer's Avatar
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    #4
    You might also check the seal between the top cap and the hull at the rear of the boat. The caulk on my Stratos 201 was old and had shrunk, allowing water to get scooped when planing. The water would end up in weird places and work it's way back down into the bilge when I was trolling. I dug out all the old stuff, wire brushed it, then cleaned it with acetone. Used 3m 4200 to re-seal. No leaks now, she stays dry as a bone all day. Good luck.
    1994 Stratos 201 Pro XL 2004 Mercury 200 EFI

  5. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Bassnailer View Post
    You might also check the seal between the top cap and the hull at the rear of the boat. The caulk on my Stratos 201 was old and had shrunk, allowing water to get scooped when planing. The water would end up in weird places and work it's way back down into the bilge when I was trolling. I dug out all the old stuff, wire brushed it, then cleaned it with acetone. Used 3m 4200 to re-seal. No leaks now, she stays dry as a bone all day. Good luck.
    Remove the rub rail and check for loose screws. Tighten and reseal if necessary.

  6. Natalie Gulbis tdt91's Avatar
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Bassnailer View Post
    You might also check the seal between the top cap and the hull at the rear of the boat. The caulk on my Stratos 201 was old and had shrunk, allowing water to get scooped when planing. The water would end up in weird places and work it's way back down into the bilge when I was trolling. I dug out all the old stuff, wire brushed it, then cleaned it with acetone. Used 3m 4200 to re-seal. No leaks now, she stays dry as a bone all day. Good luck.
    Yes, This is common with these hulls. The top cap will separate from the hull and allow water in. Generally it's because screws back out or break. You can temporarily fix it by re-caulking but it will separate and leak again.
    You need to remove the rub rail at least in back and around the corner some to fix it correctly. Use 4200 or 5200 between the hull and top cap and screw it back together. Then put the rubrail back on and re caulk underneath using 4200.
    2000 Javelin Renegade 20 DC.
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  7. Natalie Gulbis tdt91's Avatar
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by JR19 View Post
    Remove the rub rail and check for loose screws. Tighten and reseal if necessary.
    Jean, I think we reversed rolls tonight, LOL
    2000 Javelin Renegade 20 DC.
    Strong men create easy times, Easy times create weak men & weak men create hard times. Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum
    In 1944 18-20 year old's stormed beaches, and parachuted behind enemy lines to almost certain death.
    In 2015 18-20 year old's need safe zones so people don't hurt their feelings. "Author Unknown"
    In 2021 18-40 year old's want to and work to cancel you out if you have a different opinion.

  8. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by tdt91 View Post
    Jean, I think we reversed rolls tonight, LOL
    I was short and sweet and you were long in the tongue...don't make me type up a four paragraph reply because you know I will

  9. Champion Boats Moderator Lea's Avatar
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    #9
    Check your live well fittings! Very common cause of leaks. The intake and overflow are both below your water line....

  10. Member
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    #10
    Thanks guys. I wouldn't have thought about the rub rail. I watched a couple videos on it, doesn't look too hard. I do have a question though. Should I pull the entire rub rail, caulk behind it and reapply both pieces? Or should I just need to pull the middle piece out, recaulk and screw and put it back together? Thanks for all the help, Clayton.

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Lea View Post
    Check your live well fittings! Very common cause of leaks. The intake and overflow are both below your water line....
    Was thinking the same thing.

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by JR19 View Post
    Remove the rub rail and check for loose screws. Tighten and reseal if necessary.
    Stratos owner here. Very common with these Stratos hulls.

  13. Member
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    #13
    I started pulling the rub rail today, this is what I found.




    Most of the screws were loose. Pretty sure most of the water is coming in there. Looks like I need to caulk the seam between the top cap and bottom hull, and the screw holes. Also, the screws that hold the top and bottom half were loose. Should I put red loctite on all the screws going back in? I appreciate all the help.

  14. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #14
    tdt91 pretty much answered this in reply#6...I prefer M4200 because it can be removed if necessary. M4200 will make a watertight seal and not allow the screw to vibrate and back out. Both M4200 and M5200 will give it a water tight seal but M5200 will make a permanent bond to whatever it's applied to once it dries. M5200 is excellent in applications where you will never need to remove what its applied to. In theory you should never have to remove the screws that attach the top cap to the hull but in the rare event you needed to separate the top cap from the hull its going to be a job due to M5200...hence the reason I recommend M4200.

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    #15
    I ordered some 4200 . Just didn't know if I needed some loctite too to keep them from banking out.

  16. Better Lucky Than Good! Casslaw's Avatar
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    #16
    Putting the 4200 on the threads will keep the screws in there tight and stop water from seeping through the screw holes. Loc-tite isn’t needed or preferred for what you’re doing.

    I hope this takes care of your issue!
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    #17
    Ok. Thanks guys.

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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Lea View Post
    Check your live well fittings! Very common cause of leaks. The intake and overflow are both below your water line....
    When your done with the rub well close the livewell and fill them with a garden hose and look in the bottom of the bilge area to see where the water is coming from. Rub tails can leak but they won't dump that much water to make the pumps kick on while your fishing over and over. The leak is below the water line which is a livewell fitting or hose.

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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by jarhead175 View Post
    When your done with the rub well close the livewell and fill them with a garden hose and look in the bottom of the bilge area to see where the water is coming from. Rub tails can leak but they won't dump that much water to make the pumps kick on while your fishing over and over. The leak is below the water line which is a livewell fitting or hose.
    This!!!!! Probably a flow rite valve cracked. Replaced two V5 on my boat from top cracking.

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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Lea View Post
    Check your live well fittings! Very common cause of leaks. The intake and overflow are both below your water line....
    I'm betting he has a bad recirc/pump out valve.

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