Did you get get BRP parts? Did you test for spark with the new coils and wires? On air leaks, If you still have those worm clamps on any hose fittings, replace them now, they were to big and not the proper clamps. A fuel fitting will suck air and not leak fuel. Timing returning to the stop, carbs closed at idle? I would start with the idle orifices at 3 turns out, and any idle adjustments must be made in the water, follow the service manual instructions. How does it run with the air box on?
Last edited by 316jughead; 12-14-2018 at 05:53 AM.
Thanks Jerry, yes the new BRP parts arrived, sparks now jump the 7/16 gap and sound as strong as ever, all clamps I replaced it with the marine type wire ties, carbs butterflies are closed, timing I have not touched that since the last time you helped me setting it up and even placing a small sleeve on the roller so it is just like before, the idle adjustment I have not touched them neither since when you guys helped me starting the engine like a year ago....funny thing is when I got it working months ago, it would idle around 1100 RPM....then once the boat was painted and all electrical work done, I just ran it maybe twice a month for about 5-10 minutes, fuel tank after cleaning it was always almost empty and refueled with rec90 every two months or so....never kept more than 3 gallons onboard and always used stabil....then a couple of months ago, while starting I noticed the RPM increased around 1500-1600....then came the water test...then the start of this new thread....started today and it starts normally.....one crank....starts....wants to starve...prime one or two times it revs up and instead of coming down in rpm after warming up it just goes up now as you can see in the video above...stays around 1900....today I took cowling and covers off, check for any fuel leak and cannot see much...must admit it was getting dark....also I sprayed propane gas around so if it was inhaling air it'd be air/fuel and perhaps could indicate any vacuum leak...I just saw that on youtube from a marinengine mech...no luck either, nothing happened still high on rpm....tomorrow will go back to carbs as you said....will turn idle in all the way closed and then open to 3 turns and will continue checking for any other thing........do you think timing have to be done again?
thanks a lot for your inputs!....
Take the boat to a ramp near by that isn't busy. Submerge the lower and see how it sounds if it seems Sea worthy then make a short run in ramp range and see how it performs.
Originally Posted by ChampioNman
I think you could leave the propane at home, check You Tube for that.
Thanks Jerry and Fred, my concern is that what if when at the water the RPM does not go low enough say below 1000 RPM and it'd be too harsh to engage at that range....I am going to check the idle screw since I do not remember where I set them last time, I will set them at 3 turns out like Jerry says and take it from there, what would be a safe RPM to engage and continue adjusting?.....my manual states that the boat must be engaged in forward and unrestrained in order to set the idle...too fast and I will look like a lure being trolled around a reef if we hit a wave.........I was thinking tying the boat with the dock until I get a low RPM........
also, do you guys know any other trick that could share to check for any vacuum leak?.....still concerned on why this engine started acting up like this....I would like to check everything before going to the water....ramps over here are not quiet most of the time........to make things worse for me...I have water on my own backyard....yes I have a ramp to a man made cut open to navigable lakes and so, the canal is too deep and my ramp too steep for my boat/trailer....only small skiffs can be launched...what an irony...anyways gents, I appreciate your inputs and attention.
Thank you!
A plastic 55 gallon drum cut in half would work well as a test tank. WD 40 would work fine for a leak detector. I would disconnect the throttle cable and start the motor in the tank.
Thanks Fred, I have tried the test tank build before, my lower gear unit is too long and I have not been able to find any barrel wide enough, I even tried gluing plastic bins together and it was a fail.....let's see what I can do.....I have the engine without covers and without throttle cables and today I will soak it in wd40....I will showered it.....if nothing comes up I guess another trip to the ramp is in order....thanks a lot
You could get a water tank from a farm supply, they have different sizes and they are not expensive. I think mine is 5' by 2'.
Thanks Jerry, I will shop around my area deeper this time.....thanks
soaked today in wd40 all around...like a shower.....no difference....then followed Jerry's advice got the carbs set at 3 turns out...starts and dies...only priming keeps it alive...went to 3.5 same...4..idles if priming with key but coughs...4:5 idles and coughs...5 a idles but sometimes cough...RPM is not stable...revs up and goes down a bit revs up down a bit.... but still RPM are are not like before around 1100.....it always idles around 1500+....too dark now ....tomorrow I will open idle screw a bit more and see if I can get it working like it was yesterday at least.....and wait for the tank or ramp trip...
thank you guys
I’m NO marine engine expert but I know my way around a car engine and it sounds like a vacuum leak doesn’t it? I see that you’re looking for a vacuum leak but haven’t found one. Either that or you may have a needle/seat that has trash in it and is overflowing a bowl?
Yes I’m completely guessing! I hope you get her figured out!
2006 Triton SP-185, 2006 Evinrude Etec 90, PowerTech NRS3, Garmin Echomap Plus 73CV & 93SV
After doing some research, Initial idle orifice adjustment, set at 5 3/4 turns out. You just cannot adjust the orifices on the muffs. Have you rebuilt the Vapor Separator Tank, needle and seat and new diaphragm in the VST little air pump? QuikStart turning off? No carb oring gaskets pinched or out of place? All of the recirculation hoses good and routed properly? Have you tested this system? What do you know about the reeds? You could have a reed problem. If you can get it running at idle, put a timing light on it and see what the idle timing actually is with the timing arm on the stop, motor warm, QuikStart off. Why don't you read the service manual from the start, including the problem causing charts. You might come across something that you have been missing or is not correct. On another note, follow the manual on shift and throttle cable installation, this could be in two different sections. With your control box you should end up with a gap at the timing roller and arm, and at the carb roller, this will make sure that the motor shifts into gear before any throttle is given, saves the lower unit gears. If you do everything in the correct order the timing and carbs will still open at the same time.
Thank you sr!...crazy as it sounds but I rebuilt all carbs, twice, new bowls, new everything on them....after I got the engine running with the help of this guys here...and going thorough a lot and I mean a lot of learning, I never touched anything after that and ran the engine twice o month on muffs fro about 5-10mts to keep carbs flushed...then one day I noticed RPM going up from around 1100 to 1500....still got finally to the ramp and that's when I got this trouble...a coil was acting up....replaced them with new wires...engine still RPM at around 1800...yesterday I was just following one the advice of the masters mechs here ant set the carbs to 3 turns out but did not work....I am now in the task to bring it back to at least to where it was a couple of days ago with the new coils and wires and I guess I will definitely will need to wait for another trip to ramp or build a big tank and take it from there....
...yeahh man...I know these guys here only by listening they cam tell....but for this unlucky dude with who likes fishing and have no knowledge whatsoever on this field I guess the suffering continues.....I will keep posting...after all it might help someone else with same problem if we can figure it out...
Thanks
Thanks Jerry, I read the service manual but sometimes it gives so many possibilities including steps that we already went through, the primer solenoid, the vapor separator have been rebuilt/replaced....it/they could have gone bad again but I just do not know how to determine...I would hate to buy and replace things again without knowing, all carbs were totally rebuilt months ago...the timing : was adjusted by the help of master Jerry and its wonderful little tool....but I will stop by an autopart and get a cheap timing light learn how to use it and compare....reading about the quickstart from the manual now but kind of difficult to understand as in steps 1) it says to connect timing light to no1 cyl spark plug, start engine and set idle speed at no more than 900 RPM in FORWARD and that is my problem my RPM are too high to engage...and I need a test tank or trip to ramp....I found someone in offerup around me selling one of those square tanks used for pet control trucks....I will look at it and see if I can build one by cutting it....definitely the idle screws I ended around 5 3/4 yesterday, I will see if today I can get it back to idle the way it was a couple of days ago after I replaced the coils/wires.....and then wait for the water test thing.....will keep posted....I appreciate your input. Thanks a lot
The in forward thing must be so the idle will be slowed down in the tank to about normal idle when in the water boat unrestrained. My reason for the timing light is to test the power pack to see if it's not turning off QuikStart and advancing the timing at all RPM's, making for a high idle.. Static timing with the Easy Timer can be spot on, but if the pack is bad the running timing can be off. Reading the manual takes longer than cooking a rib eye but both are worth it.
that was a good one Jerry...
you know Jerry, since we got this engine running months ago, even before this new issue started my RPM never was stable, engine revs up and down a bit, I though that could be electrical problem but never studied how it works....reading it now.....before the engine would rev up for a bit and then come down...now it revs up and stays....you got me thinking now.....
I will get the timing light....trying to get one that gives RPM results also.....on top of everything in my life......tomorrow is the end of my time off......my sprinkler pump having issues today....and of course wife complaining........I am calling it a day now....will grab a couple of yuengling and here's to you guys!!....thnks
If the idle timing is advanced the motor should run rough, but maybe not at 1900 RPM. I hope I'm not causing you to get a timing light for nothing, I was just looking for possible causes. Why couldn't it be that the carbs are not closing or the timing is not returning to the stop? My wife has been down to Texas for a few days, just before she left she got on me for leaving a coffee cup on my end table, I told her I was practicing for when she left.
Get him fixed up Jerry,,
Fred, you know how much I wish I could be there to help him, I know you do too. Your thoughts and help is really appreciated, and he is so willing.
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