Boat seems slow! Just figured out my prop shaft is sitting 5.25 inches below pad, running a 225 etec with lightning 2 gearcase, it was just replaced. Was running 63-65 before replacement, pretty sure it was a L1 before, running 60 now, have 24 tempest, should I move the motor up to around 3 inches below?
Go to 3.5 and start there raising in quarter inch increments
Ranger R81VS, Mercury 175EFI w/ 25 Tempest
You’ll need a jack plate to get the bow up enough to see much speed. For some reason those boats run bow down. Most guys around here are running 8-10” plates. I don’t know why the new lower is slower, might be a different gear or larger diameter.
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Thank You Leon Pugh
Boat model & year.- 2006 Ranger Z20
Motor model, HP, year.- 2006 225hp Etec
Exact prop information. Stock 24p tempest
Exact current results at wide open throttle, full trim, fishing load.- 60 with 2 adult men 190 each half rank each tank
All characteristics, lift, roostertail height, how stiff is steering, any chine walk, time for holeshot.- don't have holeshot time, steering was stiff, I believe there wasn't much of roostertail.
Have 10 inch manual jp, propshaft 5.25" below pad
I would start at 4” p2p and see how much different the boat feels.
What max RPM are you wot right now? Compare that with your change.
Do you have a water pressure gauge? Ranger’s don’t usually like high p2ps so I don’t think you will get above 3.5” before you find where your boat likes to run
Change only one thing at a time so you’re sure what made the change! Move in 1/4” increments until you see no difference in performance or a drop in wot water pressure.
Id call whoever changed your lower unit and find out if the gear ratio was changed because that makes no sense!
2006 Triton SP-185, 2006 Evinrude Etec 90, PowerTech NRS3, Garmin Echomap Plus 73CV & 93SV
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If that motor has never had the original lower unit replaced that's what is causing the speed loss. It's a different lower unit and everyone who changed them had a speed loss after the change. It's a larger case with stronger gears and that slows you down. A Z20 runs pretty flat normally but having you prop worked should gain some of your speed back and raising the motor up to 3.5" under will help too.
this^ the new lower has slowed everybody someOriginally Posted by mdtritn21
So, if I were to get a Fury proo, should I go with a 25p pr 26p? Being they are smaller diameter than the tempest
Need a lot more accurate info to be of any useful help, but I can say I really like Fury props on lighter boats, In your case the tempest is far better than a Fury. You will probably need a 23 if using a Fury and then spend another 300 on it to get it prepped for you boat. In stock form Fury props just suck
Thank You Leon Pugh
Fury 3 blade props are smaller in diameter than a tempest and usually need to run 1/4 to 1/2" deeper.
I Fury that is properly reworked will run at the same depth as a tempest, on most boats. They also will no longer be any more weight sensitive than a tempest either
Thank You Leon Pugh
My 08 Z20 with Etec is dog slow(relative to 20 footers with a 250). Raker 2 26 pitch with 10" manual plate set below pad 3 1/2". Would run 63 rung out and over trimmed, great mid range power, gets on pad good, two guys, half tank fuel, and temps up to mid 70's. Above 80 degrees hole shot suffers, mid is still good, maybe 2 to 3 mph slower. Did some research to discover Z20 hulls are typical considered slow. Don't misunderstand I love my Z20 and I like they run a little flatter, it's very nimble , and drivable in big water. In my opinion just under HP rated.
Step one, installed a 10" bob's hydraulic action, now adjusting the plate will run 66/67 and in hot weather will raise plate to allow more slip on take off.(didn't measure pad height, just know at 1.5 on gage it's right)
Step two, Talked to Croxton his opinion was need to add a little cupping for a little more bow lift.Make sense to me since I feel I'm running way too much trim and can spin 6100 rpm .$195.00 to recondition and add cup it's worth a try. Prop to be sent off next month.
Step three, 250 ETEC with 225 decals.
All the Z models made then were slow. They changed the hull when they made the Z-500 series and gained a lot of speed.
If it were my boat, I'd do this..
1) Set your PTP at 3.5". Good setpoint on a Ranger.
2) Verify water pressure is adequate at this height.
3) See what your RPMs are at with WOT with current 24P Tempest. If within 50-100 RPM of rated motor max in cooler months with gear and gas then you're good.
4) Potential swap to Fury as others have mentioned will gain 1 +/- MPH compared to tempest. Furys run strong on pitch, so a 23P Fury will be approx. same RPMs on 24P Tempest. You're a good potential candidate for a Fury4.
5) Get the prop cupped for more bow lift by a reputable prop guy. This will bring your boat to life.Ranger Z20 hulls suffer from low bow lift..
Done
Raised motor to 3.25, ran 60 at 6000 rpm, I forgot to mention I do have a 10 inch slidemaster manual JP, water pressure was fine, i do believe my gear ratio is the problem, i read that the L2 gearcases were lower ratio. My rooster tail was pretty high, gonna lower an inch and see what happens.. and looking for 23p prop
I would call Mark and talk to him before changing out the prop, let him decide what needs changing, never tell your prop guy what to do to the prop, give the baseline info and they will tell you what needs to be done, pitch, rake, progression or cup, maybe all
Thank You Leon Pugh
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