225 Opti

[Manatee Mauler]

I'm at the fire station so I don't have the serial # but what I have is more of a generic question so serial # wouldn't be needed, or at least I don't think. When I'm idling for a prolonged time ( like 5 min or more) and shut off the motor, if I start it right back up the over heat alarm sounds off. I rev it up, raise psi to 6-7 and it cools back down...buzzer stops. The buzzer doesn't go off if I don't shut it down. Its only if I shut off for say a minute and restart. Does this even with a new water pump. Other buddies say their motors don't do this. I do spend hrs idling looking for shell beds on the ST Johns River in Palatka but this is in open water.

<Edit>Serial # is 1B012519 2005 225L OPTI / might be 18012519 pic isn't clear on my phone .

[Savage]

Remove BOTH thermostats and check for debris.

[EuropeanAM]

Same with the poppet valve and the air compressor strainer.

As soon as you can, provide the Serial Number. There MAY (possibly) be other items to consider.

[Manatee Mauler]

Hi Don I replaced both thermostats last week and the other day it did it again. I was idling around for 10 min or so and everything was fine. Shut it off and fished a spot for a few minutes then cranked it right back up and the over heat buzzer went off. I increased the RPMs until the PSI came between 6-8 and the buzzer went silent. It only does this if I shut it off let it sit for a minute or so after a long idle.

Bed season is here ad Ill be idling for hours. I crank the motor and steer with the trolling motor. When I find a cluster of beds I shut the big off and start push polling myself around. With this much idling I don't want to blow the head or scor a cylinder.

Serial # is 1B012519 2005 225L OPTI / might be 18012519 pic isn't clear on my phone . Thanks and Merry Christmas to you and your family.

[riverrat29]

I would follow Don's advice here. There is not a whole lot to go bad with the poppet valve, but make sure the diaphragm is not compromised and the grommet is not out of position. I have seen trash get in there and make the valve bypass so much water it does not get up to the block and will cause an overheat issue. Very low psi at idle can indicate an issue in that area. There is also a weep hole that if you bump the throttle just enough to get the rpm up a bit, you can see that valve spit water out if it is not working right. But always make sure your water pump impeller is in good shape too. Start at the source and work your way up. The compressor strainer should be cleaned at this time as well while you have the lower cowlings off.

I am not sure if Don approves this method, but if you think you have allot of debris stuck in there somewhere after you check the poppet and re-gasket it, re-install your stat housings and disconnect the hoses at the bottom and run it without the thermostats in it at all for maybe a minute or two at best. See if you get any sediment, mud, or other junk out of it. This may avoid having to pull stats over and over as the trash gets worked out of the system.

[Savage]

I would NOT run the motor without thermostats even at idle speeds......ever!

[riverrat29]

Sanavge do you think damage would occur in 30 seconds to a minute of run time ? The motor hasn’t even had time to start warming up.

[Manatee Mauler]

by chance do you have the part# for the poppet valve?

[EuropeanAM]

by chance do you have the part# for the poppet valve?

Multiple components and part numbers make up the poppet valve (no kit for this engine model). Rhonda can set you up with all the pieces (see her post at the top of the forum).

On this serial number, there is a pretty good possibility that the problem is in the adapter plate gasket and/or exhaust strainer (have even seen a few with no strainer installed at all).