Finally used my charge on the go technique Monday.

[250bassFL]

While I was off digging up pipe and replacing it at my house. And in between having to fix my roof from a big tree limb falling on it. And after my Tundra got repaired after blowing a seal. I ran wiring under my truck to the back through a switch. So now because of my Steath1 DC charger. I can charge all my batteries while I am driving to, and coming home from fishing.
Been putting it off long enough. Figured if I am going to get back into fishing I needed to get it done. Used it for the first time Monday after getting my boat out of the shop, and going fishing. It works.

[crawdadking]

Good deal! The more you fish the more they'll charge.

[Hickory Legend]

Good deal! The more you fish the more they'll charge.

He has it also running to his truck so, he is charging while towing also!!
Very cool setup!!

[WVBullet]

Pretty cool!

[250bassFL]

Pretty cool!

I got pictures that show some of what I do. But can't post them. But if someone wants to post them, I will send them to them to do so.

But us with the DC chargers know while the motor is running the trolling motor batteries charge. In the Tundra the starting battery is getting the voltage from the alternator. I ran a wire with a switch on it to my round 7pin reciever. And in the past I bought a round plug for a 5 flat and cigarette lighter plug on it. I come off of that plug with a thick wire with gator clamps, and connect them to my starting battery in the boat. Start the truck, flip the switch, and voltage from the truck runs to the boat starting battery as well, light brightens up on the Stealth DC charger, and that charger starts charging my trolling motor batteries.

I just parked it when I got done from fishing. Didn't plug anything up. And covered the boat.
I will check battery readings when I get done fishing Friday if I have time. But I used to use it trip after trip without plugging into AC at home after only running the big motor.
But the day my big motor died after not running long at all, the trolling motor batteries were low, and I didn't think I was going to get to the ramp. But I did.
So I figured I needed to get this done so I had more charging time while driving. And charging this away is supposed to be better on the batteries and give me longer use from them.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

What you are doing will work, however you may want to rethink some of the wiring. If your truck battery is connected to the outboard battery (as I read in the above post) it also provides a path for the starter on the truck to pull from the outboard battery (you're putting the two - truck battery/outboard battery in parallel) to help start the truck. This is where heavier cable instead of "big wire" would be needed. The option/fix to this would be to place a heavy diode in a series line on the positive wire going to the outboard battery. In that is done, the truck battery/alternator doesn't "see" the outboard to possibly over regulate, will charge at the rate of running the truck and will not pull voltage from the outboard when needed for things such as starting.
John
I've made this setup before for customers with charge on the run systems.

[250bassFL]

What you are doing will work, however you may want to rethink some of the wiring. If your truck battery is connected to the outboard battery (as I read in the above post) it also provides a path for the starter on the truck to pull from the outboard battery (you're putting the two - truck battery/outboard battery in parallel) to help start the truck. This is where heavier cable instead of "big wire" would be needed. The option/fix to this would be to place a heavy diode in a series line on the positive wire going to the outboard battery. In that is done, the truck battery/alternator doesn't "see" the outboard to possibly over regulate, will charge at the rate of running the truck and will not pull voltage from the outboard when needed for things such as starting.
John
I've made this setup before for customers with charge on the run systems.

Thanks for the info John. Will have to check into that heavy diode.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Something like this would be the safest way:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-B...-206793205-_-N

[250bassFL]

Something like this would be the safest way:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-B...-206793205-_-N

Thank you!
I am hooked up and ready to go tomorrow. I won't plug the connection up till truck is running, and unplug when not. I have a new starter on the Tundra now, along with lots of other new parts. Ain't cheap through Toyota, so don't want anything to go bad. Appreciate the advice.

[CJ1]

Most trucks that have a trailer tow package also have a 12v charge circuit in the 7 pin plug. That is not hot unless the engine is running. It is relay controlled and usually 30 amp fused. That would be the place to hook a charge circuit for the boat. That is its purpose to charge house batteries in a camper. That would eliminate the issue John is talking about. Cj

[250bassFL]

Most trucks that have a trailer tow package also have a 12v charge circuit in the 7 pin plug. That is not hot unless the engine is running. It is relay controlled and usually 30 amp fused. That would be the place to hook a charge circuit for the boat. That is its purpose to charge house batteries in a camper. That would eliminate the issue John is talking about. Cj

My Tundra only had a 4 flat. U-Haul put my 7 pin receiver on, but only plugged into the 4 flat, and tied into my reverse light. I had to tie the 12 volt in on mine.

I checked the batteries late yesterday evening after not having it plugged into electric for awhile, and used for two fishing trips. I had 12.7, 12.6 on my trolling motor batteries. My starting battery was 12.9 though. The batteries are some off brand the fiberglass shop put in after having the boat 3 days shy of 2 years. Think I had NAPA ones in it when it went in the fiberglass shop. And I added a little to much distilled water one time to the trolling motor batteries.

[WVBullet]

Posting for 250bassFL

[250bassFL]

Posting for 250bassFL

Thank you sir!

[201pro]

Seems like a lot of work to not have to plug in an extension cord when I get home.
Would be nice for staying at places that I can’t get power to my boat like casino hotel parking lots.

[DrewFlu33]

Something like this would be the safest way:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-B...-206793205-_-N

John is the expert on these types of things and I suspect it’s not a huge concern, but it may be worth mentioning that newer Tundras with a tow package have 170 amp alternators (for 2010 through 2016 I know for sure...assuming newer ones are the same or have even more output). I believe the linked isolator is only rated for up to 130 amp alternators.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

John is the expert on these types of things and I suspect it’s not a huge concern, but it may be worth mentioning that newer Tundras with a tow package have 170 amp alternators (for 2010 through 2016 I know for sure...assuming newer ones are the same or have even more output). I believe the linked isolator is only rated for up to 130 amp alternators.

Me not knowing the output of his alternator is why I said "something like this" instead of saying this is what you need. Yes, he does need to match the isolator to the output of the alternator. That being said, IMHO, a 170A alternator is a waste. Since an alternator charges on demand, I cannot see any reason why the demand on any vehicle would reach 170A.
John

[Jonestrollingmotor]

John is the expert on these types of things and I suspect it’s not a huge concern, but it may be worth mentioning that newer Tundras with a tow package have 170 amp alternators (for 2010 through 2016 I know for sure...assuming newer ones are the same or have even more output). I believe the linked isolator is only rated for up to 130 amp alternators.

Me not knowing the output of his alternator is why I said "something like this" instead of saying this is what you need. Yes, he does need to match the isolator to the output of the alternator. That being said, IMHO, a 170A alternator is a waste. Since an alternator charges on demand, I cannot see any reason why the demand on any vehicle would reach 170A.
John

[TopWaterGuy]

Hopefully I'm missing something here but i would be scared to death that that Pos. alligator clip would fall off after a big pot hole or bump and short out everything. Dang.

[250bassFL]

Hopefully I'm missing something here but i would be scared to death that that Pos. alligator clip would fall off after a big pot hole or bump and short out everything. Dang.

No, they are good ones. No issues. Another trip today, and no electricity needed.
Maybe one day I will get the digital Stealth gauge hooked back up. Instead I go out and check it with a digital handheld one for now. Haven't went through and got everything working that was before the wreck. Guess it was in the way for fiberglass work that needed done. I did have to rerun my transducer and GPS wires after getting it back as well back then. Ain't took the time. If I ever do, will permanently connect wiring and add a plug up front that I can plug into.

[DrewFlu33]

Me not knowing the output of his alternator is why I said "something like this" instead of saying this is what you need. Yes, he does need to match the isolator to the output of the alternator. That being said, IMHO, a 170A alternator is a waste. Since an alternator charges on demand, I cannot see any reason why the demand on any vehicle would reach 170A.
John

This is kind of why I said I suspect it's not a huge concern. I can't imagine ever seeing 170 amps out of an alternator unless you were trying to power some crazy audio equipment or use the truck as a generator for something that pulls a ton of current.