Has anybody used 31 series Duracell battery they sell at Sam’s they have a RV and a commercials l always use Decka the Duracell had good cca and reserve just wondering if they was any good
Has anybody used 31 series Duracell battery they sell at Sam’s they have a RV and a commercials l always use Decka the Duracell had good cca and reserve just wondering if they was any good
Mine works good, going on a year and a half.
punch "Duracell" in the search tool in upper right. you'll find plenty of info.
ThanksOriginally Posted by Nightmare
I think it is a Deka battery labeled Duracell. I bought Napa ones. Same as Duracell, different label. Still have them in the Pelican. But when the ARIES sit at the fiberglass shop for almost two years, they replaced them with some other brand. Just serviced them two weeks ago, but don't remember the brand name.
Always had good luck with Deka wet cell batteries.
Last edited by 250bassFL; 11-13-2018 at 05:07 PM.
They're definitely Deka batteries (East Penn Manufacturing). Same as NAPA, though NAPA has an additional commercial one with more oomph. Also same as Super Start at O'Reilly and quite a few others.
I just finished up year 3 running the Duracell Commercial group 31 as my main cranking battery. Tons of cranking amps, $100, and my motor (specifically the stator) supposedly doesn't play nice with AGMs anyhow. I run an HDS 7, 9, and NMEA 2k network with Point 1 antenna, have run 2 800 gph livewell pumps for 8+ hours, nav lights, and a phone charger. That stator barely maintains the battery when I run around and I don't fish in places where I'm commonly making long runs anyway, so it does not offer any appreciable charging throughout the day. Never the first hiccup and anticipate getting at least 1 more year out of it, likely more. If it died tomorrow, I'd have to get 12 years out of the AGMs with comparable cranking capacity to make them worth their extra cost, even forgetting that possible problems that could create with my motor.
I'm also running the group 31 deep cycles on my trolling motor. Extremely happy with those as well!
An under-rated thing about Sam's batteries (assuming this is pretty standard, but may just be my local stores): Core charge is only $5, so it helps a TON if you happen to not have one to trade in. You might also eat the core charge there and try turning it in elsewhere if you can find a place that doesn't require a purchase for a core charge. I've heard they exist...
Last edited by DrewFlu33; 11-13-2018 at 04:46 PM.
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
I run the Group 34 Duracell AGMs for my trolling motor and have zero issues.
2015 Yellowfin 21 with 2014 Yamaha SHO 250
You will a grp 34 does not even come close to minimum specs for a 250.
Thank You Leon Pugh
I'm trying to find where the original poster said he was looking to power a 250 anything...maybe you can help me.
Anyway I use an X2 group 27 for the cranking battery today but cranked my SHO with a Group 34 Brute Force AGM for 4 years just fine. Yamaha CCA specs are EXTREMELY conservative for mild temperature areas of the country.
2015 Yellowfin 21 with 2014 Yamaha SHO 250
Everyone has different luck with different batteries for their own applications, but worth mentioning: Common group sizes seen in marine applications from smallest to largest: 34, 24, 27, 29/31. It should be kept in mind that a group 34 is basically the smallest size you can get.
Marshfly, just judging by the boat listed in your signature, I've got to believe your Yellowfin isn't being used in the same way most bass boats will be used. Specifically I'd have to believe you're running the outboard more consistently (and charging the cranking battery more as a result) and not running other stuff like livewell pumps off of the cranking battery while the motor is off. Maybe that's not a fair assumption?
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
I use my live wells on every single trip. They are huge and it's nothing for me to throw a limit or more of 10 bass or 20 or more speckled trout in one or both. Speckled trout require the pump running 100% of the time or they die. I fish much more like a bass fisherman because way more than half of my trips are bass trips. Sightfishing for redfish is the same thing. Hours on the TM then moving between spots for 5 or ten minutes.
Now, I will say that I have my HDS12 at the console and my stero/amp hooked to one of my TM batts but an HDS9 at the bow is hooked to the cranking battery and it stays on all day long. I hooked the console unit to the TM battery so that I can monitor that it is being charged while running by the voltage on the unit.
I have a Yandina Trollbridge that charges my TM batts on the run so have no issue running "house" loads off of one of the TM batteries. It's kind of an oddball setup that works extremely well and I wonder why more people don't setup that way. I can jump from that house/TM battery if need be and everything stays charged no matter what. I've spent two full days fishing Toledo Bend dry camping without plugging anything in and when I got back to the house everything was charged up in a few hours.
2015 Yellowfin 21 with 2014 Yamaha SHO 250
I think a lot of people are trying to use their Starting battery as a House battery too and run multiple pumps and big GPS units on it as well. That will always lead to issues. Those are loads better served by deep cycle batteries like the ones you have sitting there for the trolling motor. Install a way to recharge on the run and it will minimize or eliminate the issues with the slight load in-balance due to hooking a GPS or two to a trolling motor battery. My experience is that one battery dies before the rest regardless of what you do so that's really a non-issue anyway.
I have my batteries hooked like this with TM battery "A" serving House loads too. I have the engine and house loads hooked to the starting battery and that battery with a Blue Sea M-series 6011 Dual Circuit Plus Switch so it switches all loads with one switch but still allows me to combine them for jumping.
2015 Yellowfin 21 with 2014 Yamaha SHO 250
I like mine, works well.
"It's even, but it ain't settled. Let's settle it." Fast Eddie
I still can't believe they actually won...Cubs Fans Everywhere
Or another option is to get a premium deep cycle that is rated for starting also. Trojan scs225. I had no issues with my Deka battery for years either. 2 graphs, live well, stereo with a large amp and lights at night. Always started the outboard. CjI think a lot of people are trying to use their Starting battery as a House battery too and run multiple pumps and big GPS units on it as well. That will always lead to issues. Those are loads better served by deep cycle batteries like the ones you have sitting there for the trolling motor. Install a way to recharge on the run and it will minimize or eliminate the issues with the slight load in-balance due to hooking a GPS or two to a trolling motor battery. My experience is that one battery dies before the rest regardless of what you do so that's really a non-issue anyway.
I have my batteries hooked like this with TM battery "A" serving House loads too. I have the engine and house loads hooked to the starting battery and that battery with a Blue Sea M-series 6011 Dual Circuit Plus Switch so it switches all loads with one switch but still allows me to combine them for jumping.
2002 X19 200HP OX66 HO Vmax,HPDI lower, it lives, thanks Hydro Tec.
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