Yesterday I drained the lower unit fluid due to a hard freeze in forecast. Only water came out. NO OIL! Can someone direct me to step by step instructions to replace affected seals. Any special tools required? I feel lucky I did not have a break down on the water with expensive damage. Anyone in the north country that has not drained and replaced lower unit fluid might wanna do so. You never Know. I didn't.
This not a DIY job for most folks. No offense intended, but, the fact that you are posting the question(s) here indicates the job may not be for you. Best thing for you at this point, IMO, would be to refill the gear case with fresh lube ASAP and seek out a competent Merc shop to properly diagnose and repair the issue. Include your engine serial number for a response from the mod(s). Stay warm!
+1
Defitnely get some oil in it now to stop any rusting from progressing. The tools needed are probably $150+ and you will need to buy a Mercury OEM service manual as it’s not something someone can tell you how to do it. And from what I have read it’s not super easy. Hopefully your gears are ok but not sure what you should do to check for rust now.
Mercury 2002 200hp Carbed Saltwater
OT566776
2002 Cape Horn 22' Bay
Thanks guys. Yes it did occur to me to refill with merc lube for protection. I figured with all winter for a project, this could be one. Most boat marinas have off season labor rates after winterizing is mostly done. Lots of down time before before the boat shows. As far as winter projects, wife's can sure fill in the blank.
You might take the prop off and see if it was line that cut your prop seals. What is the reason a homebody could not easily change prop seals?
Some special tools are required to remove parts to replace seals..im a mechanic by trade and i have a repair shop do mine reseal jobs....300-400 bucks with water pump replacement since they have to take all that apart anyway....also if they screw up a seal installing it they eat it where you have to eat it or the consequences of it failing.
Bruce Phillips
1995 190 DC champion ......1995 200 xri merc
You can quite easily perform a vacuum and pressure test yourself. And you likely have a big leak if only water came out.,is this the original small shaft TM , that came on your motor ? 99% of the time it is the shift shaft seals that go out on the early 3l units. But at that age and level of a leak. I would seek a competent shop, as your unit really requires a complete internal component inspection. Gears,clutch etc.
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Moving your thread to the 3 Liter Forum (which matches this engine's displacement).
Pressure test is wise, if seals on the propshaft or carrier require replacement, MULTIPLE special tools will be required.
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If as you say nothing but water came out it seems you would want the gear case to be completely disassembled for inspection.
I was just asking. I can't afford to take mine to a shop as well as the time lost. I've had to replace the prop shaft seals and the driveshaft seal on my 2006 Suzuki 4 stroke 175 on occasions when I sucked up some braid and when the driveshaft seal went from old age I guess.Originally Posted by cajunrgfm
I can see where a L/U that was full of water needs to be torn down and inspected by a competent shop. I didn't know they had a clutch.
It's original as far as I know. The 250XB was on the Champ 223 when I bought it. It's a 2001 and I purchased it from DandR Sports in 2004. How can a guy do a pressure check at home. The reason I asked for a guide or instructions is I am a tool and die maker by trade and always refer to a print. Also how many seals can allow water to invade? I see no leak at the prop shaft. I changed the impeller a few years back and feel able to re seal. But buying tools I may never need again or every ten years influences my decision. Bruce2 says 300 to 400 $ parts and labor? I can live with that. Anyone with an XB knows that's hardly the fuel cost in a short time. Would like to repower with something more efficient but retired now so the overtime is gone. Overall the 250 EFI is a excellent trouble free outboard.
As mentioned above the shift seal is the weakest link in those LU.
There are three seals or sets of seals....Prop shaft seals which will require a (special tool) shift shaft seal and drive shaft seals.
A pressure check can be done numerous ways. Some have used a hand pump with soapy water. I had an old pressure/vacuum gauge I rigged up. The trick is not to over pressure. IF I remember correctly 12 lbs should be enough.
For someone with a few mechanical skills it's not that tough. The biggest concern is if the water has been there long enough for rust to start pitting.
I'm one of those who isn't afraid to fix just about anything.. Sometimes it saves me money -- sometimes not..
I had a shift shaft seal go out during a week long championship.. I noticed it was leaking after the 3rd day so I drained and refilled every night. By the last day it was all water. I replaced the seal as soon as I got home ran the boat refilled again with fresh lube and never had an issue.
(special tool) first carrier I ever removed was done with 3 long screwdrivers.. I then found a short piece of heavy walled PVC that was the right diameter and cut notches to match the groves.. drilled two holes so I could run a cheater pipe thru it and twisted it out.
Good Info. I have the vision of your PVC tool. It seems the fluid is leaking out the bottom of the part the prop exits thru that has groves. I don't think the water sat long enough to rust as I fished 3 to 4 days a week and just noticed oil dripping on bottom of skeg at end of season. I'll make a decision after deer camp in the U.P. of Michigan.
If you pull the carrier, the you will need the correct socket in order to torque the carrier nut to the proper torque, which is a very important requirement.
Good info also. Would not want to crack anything. Wondering if the carrier has a seal behind it. But again we are talking proper tools. As a tool and die maker, a tape measure will not sub for mic's.
The carrier has a huge o-ring between it and the gear case (looking from prop side (back of motor) toward front, the o-ring sits between the bearing carrier and the gear case. The big cover nut has to be torqued properly to compress that o-ring and prevent a leak on that side. The two prop shaft seals are on the other end of the carrier (toward the rear or prop side).
Tools I bought years ago were the mandrel sized for the prop shaft seals and the big cover-nut tool that sits over the prop shaft and engages those ears you see on the inside of the cover nut... On the old 2.5 I had I made a shift shaft seal removal tool by taking an old deep well socket of the right diameter and using my dremel to grind it down leaving two ears that engaged the shift shaft seal. Looks like the designed changed at some point so that tool is no longer needed.
2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
The shift seal and the seal under the water pump is a breeze to change out. I would do these at the very least and then pressure test it. It is obvious you have a leak. No need to test it now - you already know you have a leak somewhere. Change the two easy seals and see if you have a fix. If not then well you will need to change out the prop shaft seal which does require a special tool and some knowledge. But definitely for all the seals, get a manual before you start. It will tell you how to do it and what grease to use and where to you use it.
Last edited by tomloans; 11-13-2018 at 10:31 AM.
I'm in the process.of doing this now with my merc 200 efi. While the L/U is off, and as it's a new to me motor, I'm going g to go ahead and change all the seals AMD after pump. The lower unit can be removed with basic tools, wrenches, socket sets. The bearing carrier unit is torqued down to 200-210 psi. I'm taking it into a shop to remove that. A lower unit seal kit is around $80 cdn. I had to change out my shift shaft seal on my previous 150hp optimax. I mcgyvered a socket to remove it.
There are a ton of videos out there (some I'm recording myself) watch them. You'll learn a lot.
How I pressure test my L/U is with a bike pump and needle inflator. I out some duct seal (play dough will work, in a oi ch I used chewing gum) to make a seal around the needle Inflator. Spray some soapy water after pumping the bike pump a bit and watch for bubbles.
It looks intimidating but take your time, be patient and you'll be fine.
1995 Champion 190 dcx Elite
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