I need to change the seals and o-rings on my power trim. The rod ends are mushroomed out a little. Should I carefully grind/file these smooth once I remove them, or will I be able to slip the new seal over the end of these? Here are pics of the ends from both sides. Thanks!
Grind them down.
I tried to do mine didn't turn out to well ended up buying new rods. Expensive but no issues.
I went through this earlier this year. You won't be able to slide the caps off with the ends mushroomed like that. Either grind them down super smooth without knicking anything else, or just buy new rams altogether.
Spray a little paint on the ends of the rams. trim the engine all the way down, you will be able to see how much of the ram does not go into the gland when you trim it back up to remove them. Grind the mushroom part off without touching the part that goes into the gland. A bench grinder works good for this as does a belt grinder. [I prefer this] When you have them off check the glands that is where the wear usually shows up. Replace the glands if they are worn oblong. CJ
2002 X19 200HP OX66 HO Vmax,HPDI lower, it lives, thanks Hydro Tec.
Thanks. I have a belt grinder and will use that. I plan on replacing the seals and o-rings.
I would check the price of the gland from SIM. At least measure when they are off for wear. The seals can only make up for so much wear, if they have any measurable wear I would replace them. Looks like about $60 each. This is the only other issue I have seen. CJOriginally Posted by Amistad Tackle
2002 X19 200HP OX66 HO Vmax,HPDI lower, it lives, thanks Hydro Tec.
New pistons and caps are the easiest/most reliable way I’ve found to fix them. Just remove and reinstall new ones. Can buy them as a ready to install Ysub assy. Easy peezy.
I saw the assembly after I bought the seals and O-rings. If the gland is bad I will likely send those back and purchase the entire assembly. I will check it with a digital caliper. Ridiculous what they charge for the assembly, $168 for each side, but its only money. I have about $80 in seals, o-rings and trim fluid.
I was able to use a bench grinder with a fine grit wheel, and remove the outer end of the mushroom. Then used some wet 1000 grit sandpaper on that area to smooth it down. There is about 3/4 of an inch of the rod that doesn't go down into the cylinder past the wiper. I just took off the minimum amount needed. The caps (gland) were in excellent shape. Everything is back together and working fine. Easy job with the right tool (Marine Tech) to remove the caps. My tourney partner loaned that to me, as he did his entire trim/tilt assembly this past spring. I also sprayed a little PB Blaster on the cap thread before removal and with a breaker bar and the Marine Tech tool the cap came off pretty easy. I bought two quarts of trim fluid. I never touched the second quart.
Thanks to all that replied.
The above post is correct. The Marine Tech tool works well. My caps were not really seized on and broke loose fairly easily. A helpful tip that I read on a other post said to cut a piece of 11/4" or 1 1/2" schedule 40 PVC about a foot long. After you place the spanner tool in the cap, slide the PVC over the extended trim pin and place it on top of the spanner. Next, trim the motor down enough to put some weight onto the PVC so that it presses down on the spanner. This will keep the spanner from trying to walk out of the top of the cap when applying pressure to the spanner with a long ratchet or breaker bar.
Excellent tip wcs69rat
Lake&Bay Boca
SHO
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