Possible power switch bad

[Fishin Life]

I know my cranking and accessories battery is bad but I'm just wondering if it is so bad it won't even allow the switch to send power out getting new battery Monday but wanted to know if anyone had experienced this and if I might also have a bad switch

[adrenalnjunky]

You mean the ignition switch? It is possible that it is bad or not wired properly to send the "cranking" signal back to your starter/solenoid, but that switch also does things like sending power to your ignition, and the "kill" signal as well that keeps the ignition from firing.

But, before testing all of that - if you have a reason to not trust your battery or its connections - pull the battery and have it tested. If it is dead as a doornail, there's no juice for the switch to send anywhere anyway.

[Fishin Life]

Thanks for reply it's not the ignition switch I'm talking about the panel that has like 9 or 10 rocket switch it's the red one that sends power to everything it's not getting past it

[tdt91]

Yes it's possible that switch is bad. East enough to test with a multi meter but put the new battery in and see how that works.

[Fishin Life]

So put new battery in I get 12 volts to wires going to switch and there is light on when power is supplied but when I flip switch on no power it drops volts down to 3 or so.....this is a Carling rocker switch its red and has power stamped on it has 5 pins on back 2 hot 2 going out and 1 negative I really need to find one of these have a high school tournament this weekend with my son on Lake Keowee

[adrenalnjunky]

So put new battery in I get 12 volts to wires going to switch and there is light on when power is supplied but when I flip switch on no power it drops volts down to 3 or so.....this is a Carling rocker switch its red and has power stamped on it has 5 pins on back 2 hot 2 going out and 1 negative I really need to find one of these have a high school tournament this weekend with my son on Lake Keowee

Are there 5 leads plugged into it or just 5 prongs on it? The Negative is for the lightbulb in the switch only so it can light up - it will be pulling the 12v+ side from inside the switch itself if it only comes on when the switch is toggled "on". You should be able to jumper those leads and bypass the switch to see if the switch is truly your problem. Pull the switch out itself and test it with your multi-meter set up to test for continuity. you can use any on/off toggle switch as long as it is rated for 12V and whatever amperage the original switch was rated for. A cheapo from the auto parts store would suffice in a pinch for the weekend.

[Fishin Life]

Yes there is 5 wires hooked up......I believe I finally diagnosed it as the switch when I check continuity from negative to one side of switch I have it on 1 pole switch off and both when switch in on position but on other side I have no continuity on either pole on or off.....I found a switch on Great Lakes Skipper having it 2nd day shipped so it will get here and hopefully will solve the issue.....thanks everyone for all input

[Fishin Life]

Could not find the issue on my own so had to take it to local boat shop ending up being a bad main breaker in battery compartment of boat thanks for all that replied hope maybe this will help someone else