How to fix crankshaft carrier assembly 05 merc xr6 150hp?

[Dave Ervin]

2005 Mercury xr6 150hp serial number 1B029436. While trying to get my lower unit back in with no luck, I discovered the lower crankshaft carrier assembly was loose and not allowing my driveshaft splines to go into gear case. Any ideas how to get the carrier assy back in place? Is it ok to remove and put lower unit back in without it?
any help suggestions appreciated!
Thanks Dave

[EuropeanAM]

See response in your other thread- Scd-40 PVC, with a union (you'll have to grind/machine the union down so it fits through adapter plate).

Short piece of pipe on top side of union to help center everything up.

Engine at LEVEL trim, lay on creeper under motor with safety glasses, a bright light, and a prayer.

One-shot deal... if you don't get it in, the powerhead is coming off.

[Dave Ervin]

Thank you for posts! Will the carrier assembly come out through bottom hole of mid section? I am not sure current carrier assy is in good shape to put back in, I would like to fish it out. Would a new part, 54196A6 fit in bottom hole and then pushed up into place into gear box? I really appreciate everyone's help. $700 to get fixed I cannot afford right now.
thanks Dave

[EuropeanAM]

You cannot remove and replace without first removing the powerhead. Parts will not fit through the driveshaft opening as their diameter is considerably larger than the hole.

[paulrodbender]

Don, I just centered mine (seal) with a long dowel and put the lower unit back on when I did my water pump. Is this ok or should I remove the lower unit and tap this seal back into place? Can I do damage the way I have it?

[Dave Ervin]

Paul, so you didn't tap it back in place on crankshaft? You just put driveshaft thru hole and in place with crank gears with splines?

[EuropeanAM]

Don, I just centered mine (seal) with a long dowel and put the lower unit back on when I did my water pump. Is this ok or should I remove the lower unit and tap this seal back into place? Can I do damage the way I have it?

I don't recommend this- as that ring is quite hard, and would be loose, spinning and/or vibrating on the driveshaft (not to mention it's not performing it's intended task- keeping WATER out of the splines).

[paulrodbender]

Paul, so you didn't tap it back in place on crankshaft? You just put driveshaft thru hole and in place with crank gears with splines?

Mine is an 1988 XR4 and no I didn't tap it back in place. I used a tube to center it and put the lower unit back on. I don't know if this is ok or not, that's why I asked Don. From my research, this is to help keep splines clean and some guys have removed this seal with a hook but I trust Don more than any internet mechanic.

[paulrodbender]

I don't recommend this- as that ring is quite hard, and would be loose, spinning and/or vibrating on the driveshaft (not to mention it's not performing it's intended task- keeping WATER out of the splines).

Thanks Don. I thought about that this morning, that it must be up there spinning. I have also read, to order a new seal in order to make a custom tool to fit the one on the motor, seems like a good idea. Winters are long here so I'll be dropping the lower unit and doing it right. Thanks again Don and Dave for posting.

[EuropeanAM]

New seal/carrier = REMOVE POWERHEAD.

You CANNOT install a new one otherwise.

[paulrodbender]

New seal/carrier = REMOVE POWERHEAD.

You CANNOT install a new one otherwise.

Yes, I know you need to remove powerhead to replace with new carrier. I was talking about using a new seal/carrier (for size purposes only) to make the tool to re-install the old one.

[EuropeanAM]

Hole in adapter plate is smaller than the seal/carrier, so it's the adapter plate opening you need to size for.

1/2" Schedule 40 Pipe - 1st piece approximately 25" long.

1/2" Schedule 40 Coupler

1/2" Schedule 40 Pipe- Second piece 1.5" Long.

Assemble above.

Grind/turn Coupler down to .950" OD.

Tool ready for use as pictured below:

[paulrodbender]

Thanks again Don. This will help me as I hope it helps Dave as well.

[Dave Ervin]

I hope so! Thanks Don and Paul

[Dave Ervin]

Paul, the 1/2" pvc is that outer diameter? The only Union coonector I found at Home Depot is a coupler which will make coonector too big in diameter to go thru bottom plate hole. Do you glue these together or just assemble? Not sure why the union and then another 1.5" pvc pipe at the end. Then how would you use this? How would one punch this back on to crankshaft. Sorry just can't seem to grasp what Don is saying in his reply.

[EuropeanAM]

1/2" Schedule 40 Pipe - 1st piece approximately 25" long.

1/2" Schedule 40 Union

1/2" Schedule 40 Pipe- Second piece 1.5" Long.

Assemble above.

Grind/turn coupler down to .950" OD.

Tool ready for use.

Dave- PVC is rated based on its INSIDE diameter.

Read the above quote carefully- it tells you exactly what to buy, assemble, and the size you must grind or turn the coupler down to after you assemble.

[gehol]

Don, just to clarify you are stating union. Is it possible you mean coupling?
https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?c..._Do_I_Need.htm

[EuropeanAM]

Thanks- so I guess we should call it a "coupler". I'll update above to avoid any confusion.

[Dave Ervin]

Paulrodbender I sent you a PM. Tuesday.Dave

[paulrodbender]

Paulrodbender I sent you a PM. Tuesday.Dave

Sorry. I never look up there. Will look now.