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  1. #1
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    Throttle Idle Adjustment

    2B115186

    I'm hoping someone can help tell me how to adjust the idle stop on my motor. It's not going back the whole way like it used to. In the attached picture you can barely see that it used to go back firmly against the stop since the paint is worn away, but now when I let off my hotfoot, it doesn't go back the whole way and my hotfoot is back the entire way and the spring is very tight. I tried to read the FAQ hotfoot topic (link below) but was a little confused on what I need to adjust to make sure the idle stop is pressing firmly. This may be why I don't hit the WOT rpms and speed that I used to when the motor was new. Please help me out on which screw I need to loosen/tighten, etc.

    I also checked my WOT shutters and they're about an 1/8" apart but want to tackle the idle stop first. It reaches the WOT stop but the shutters aren't quite close enough. I may adjust that but couldn't figure out how to do that as well but I think the idle stop is more important since the TPS resets itself on every startup. So really two seperate issues here and want to concentrate on the 1st above if you can help.



    Thanks in advance.


    Hotfoot adjustment link (http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=237541)
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    2015 Nitro Z-7 175 Pro XS

  2. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #2
    Need to follow the link above exactly as written. Each step in the order written.

    If you have difficulty at a particular point, it would be wise to enlist the hands-on assistance of a well-qualified technician.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
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  3. Member
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    #3
    It seems pretty simple.... just trying to figure out what... "Adjust throttle cable so that it holds ENGINE throttle arm FIMRLY against the IDLE STOP (usually the BOTTOM screw on the black throttle arm, port side of engine)" means.... Is that the bottom screw shown in the picture above? The post could probably use a few more pictures... maybe I can help?
    2015 Nitro Z-7 175 Pro XS

  4. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #4
    I cannot tell you which stop screw you have pictured, as the angle is deceiving.

    As stated in the post, the large-black throttle arm, on the side of the engine (same one the throttle cable attaches to) has a stop screw down low. THAT is the throttle stop. Cable/hotfoot need to consistently bring throttle to this stop-screw point every time the throttle is returned to idle.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
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  5. Member
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    #5
    I hope these pictures are better. The stop screw pictured is the idle stop screw. Right now, even after increasing tension on my hotfoot spring, the throttle arm won't return this screw to the stop.It's almost like there is some 'play' in the throttle cable. I tried loosening the nut circled in green and then pushing the screw back to the stop, then retightened the nut, but it still won't return to the stop after cycling the hotfoot.

    In the instructions it says "3. Adjust throttle cable so that it holds ENGINE throttle arm FIMRLY against the IDLE STOP." How do I adjust the throttle cable? Do I need to adjust the bronze colored thing circled in blue in order to push the throttle back to the idle stop at the same hot foot position?

    Please help me out and I should be able to do the rest.

    Thank you

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    2015 Nitro Z-7 175 Pro XS

  6. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #6
    The nut shown in Picture #1 should be snugged and then (IMPORTANT): Backed off 3/4 turn (the plastic washer should be able to rotate freely).

    You have circled the Cable Adjusters in Picture #2. They are locked in the retainer.

    If the above information does not make what needs to be done clear, I would strongly suggest enlisting the hands-on expertise of a well-qualified tech.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
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  7. Member
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    #7
    OK. I figured it out. If anyone else comes here looking for more specifics I took a picture to show what you need to adjust to move the throttle back to the screw stop. As discussed previously, you need to remove the nut circled in the previous post that connects the throttle cable to the throttle arm. Be sure not to drop the nut and washer... it's tough to get your fingers in there. Disconnect the cable from the throttle arm. (**Tip for 175 ProXS owners - It may help to remove the water detector in the fuel filter for easier access).

    In the picture below you'll see two cables. The top one is the throttle and the bottom one is the shift cable.

    Next there is a retaining clip circled in yellow below. The picture shows it disconnected. A little pressure will unclip it from the silver retaining clip. After this you need to pull out the top black cylinder thing (circled in green) which the throttle cable is threaded through. In order to move the throttle further back to the idle stop, you need to spin this black cylinder around the throttle cable towards the front of the motor. It took mine 3 full turns in order for the throttle to return to the stop EVERYTIME. I don't know if my cable stretched out or if it was never setup correctly.

    Once the throttle goes goes back to idle stop everytime, put it back together. Put cylinder back (circled in green) in its 'capsule', carefully put washer and nut back on. As Don mentioned snug it up then loosen 3/4 it so washer spins freely. Don't forget to reattached the retaining clip circled in yellow and fuel filter water detector if applicable.

    Then as the instructions in the other thread mention, test that you're reaching WOT stop in the cowling and adjust hotfoot accordingly. Mine was actually already reaching the WOT inside the engine but my hotfoot WOT stop wasn't setup correctly so I needed to pull the stop closer to the pedal. Hope this helps.

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    2015 Nitro Z-7 175 Pro XS

  8. Member
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    #8
    Would recommend adding one or more of these pictures to the FAQ section to show what the cable adjustment is.
    2015 Nitro Z-7 175 Pro XS

  9. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #9
    Email me a copy of that image (if you can).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
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  10. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #10
    Thank you for the pictures- they've been added to the FAQ Thread.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor