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  1. #1
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    Tips to stop water comming into liveweell

    No matter what I do I get 3-4 gallons of water in my livewell. I keep it on recirc. I’m concerned about taking the boat on the water and having it freeze. What do I need to do to stop any water from comming in?

    also once the water is in I just put it to empty to drain as we go. But there will always be a cup or 2 of water in the well that won’t drain .


    what should I do guys?

  2. Member
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    #2
    Sounds like the flappers in the valve are leaking, someone will be along to give you replacement advice which I think is in order. BTW what year is your boat?

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    #3
    2004 521vx. Will the flappers keep it bone dry?

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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by NY29T View Post
    2004 521vx. Will the flappers keep it bone dry?
    Yes.

  5. Member
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    #5
    NY29T, Zpilot is correct. Mine was doing the same thing. on any setting water would fill up in livewells to water level of boat floating. Then it got to the point that when I was in the parking lot waiting to weigh in, if i was on recirc, the water was draining into the parking lot. You can purchase the re-build kit from Flo Rite. I did it all myself. It's fairly easy. Just order the kit based off of the switch you have. Mine has recirc, auto, empty. Which is system 3. Just look at the options on their site and match up to what system you have. Now its dry as a bone in there until I want water in.

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    #6
    Mine is an 03 521vx. So i'm assuming yours will be the same. Hardest part is removing the plumbing, and the tight workspace

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    #7
    I changed the ones on my Z21 and she's all dry now. Easy and cheap fix.

  8. Member
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    #8
    I’m looking at the flo rite system 3-

    do I want the qwik lok or barbed version?
    do I want the PEF version (idk what that is )
    and do I want the cable on the front or rear version?

    thanks guys

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    #9
    i took a leaker apart and it had some fishing line in it, no parts needed to fix
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  10. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
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    #10
    Sometimes the flappers get crud built up on them and a good cleaning will stop the leak. But, if the flappers are dry rotted, they should be replaced.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments

  11. Member
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    #11
    NY. You only need the repair kit $11.95. You should not need a new valve

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    #12
    I want to replace the whole thing as it’s 14 years old. Id hate to replace just the valves and then it doesn’t work. For 20$ bucks I could replace the whole thing. I just don’t know what version besides the system 3 to get.

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    #13
    can't help you there. I'm not sure which valve it is other then system 3. By the looks of it, unless it is physically cracked or broken, then everything that comes in the rebuild kit is all you would need. It comes with the gasket and any moving hardware. I understand where you are coming from though, if you are already in there why not put a whole new one in.

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    #14
    i ended up buying a new v3 valve just because it cost me the same in shipping to get the rebuild or whole valve... figure I may as well get a whole valve and keep one as a spare in the case of anything happening. Probably should of also ordered a couple extra rebuild kits but didnt think of that....



    Not sure about you but I also noticed my livewell hoses starting to dry rot as well as most of my well fittings were caked with crap.

    Its a good time to get some fresh lines in there and clean out all the connections from the livewell. Its what im in the progress of doing....
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  15. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by NY29T View Post
    I want to replace the whole thing as it’s 14 years old. Id hate to replace just the valves and then it doesn’t work. For 20$ bucks I could replace the whole thing. I just don’t know what version besides the system 3 to get.
    Before you spend the $ on the whole valve, make sure that you can get the livewell hoses loose from the old valve or you may end up replacing all of the hoses, too. I know that the hoses were on the valve so tight that I could barely get them to move and getting them off undamaged was next to impossible.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments

  16. Member
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    #16
    Ya well see what happens . Just ordered a new valve system. Hope the hoses are ok but will see what they look like after I get to them. Do I have to take the battery’s out and charger?

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    #17
    My access water was flowing from the overflow valve. I simply place a plug in it when I want dry wells.

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    #18
    Possibly when in reverse water will come in the overflow......like when coming off the trailer at the ramp. Plug the overflow if your not going to be using the livewell.

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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by NY29T View Post
    Ya well see what happens . Just ordered a new valve system. Hope the hoses are ok but will see what they look like after I get to them. Do I have to take the battery’s out and charger?
    Anxious to see your outcome. Have a '06 model with a similar issue, except the water flows OUT instead of in.

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    #20
    I had to remove middle battery and powerpole pump. then remove the square plate, and that will give you access to the bilge area with all pumps and valve.