93 Johnson 90 hp Won't start

[smokeeater163]

Ok....here's my issue. It is a 1993 90 HP Johnson outboard that is not starting. Background...it has always been a bit tricky to get started. However, after running it for a bit and then fishing for an hour or two it would start up and idle, but when I put it in gear and start to give it throttle it would bog down and die. Then it would take a while for it to start back up and be good to go and run like a champ. Last trip out it did this 2 times. This morning it would not start at all ( I even tried giving it a shot of starting fluid) to see if it would turn over....nothing.

I pulled the plugs this morning and cleaned and gaped them.
Fuel is not old and is mixed appropriately.
Carbs were rebuilt last year.

Any ideas??????

Thanks in advance!

[smokeeater163]

Could it be the Primer Solenoid?

[omcforever]

NEVER use starting fluid on a 2 stroke motor. If you have to, mix up some 50:1 in a gas proof spray bottle and use that. And when you say "see if it would turn over/nothing".....is it cranking and not starting or not cranking?

[ChampioNman]

Can you describe your cold start process?

[smokeeater163]

So, the engine is cranking over and not starting. (not even trying) Didn't know that about using starting fluid...good to know. My cold start process goes like this...
Step 1... pump priming bulb on inline fuel line till its full
Step 2... turn key while pushing in choke till it starts.

Sometimes I have to put in neutral and give it throttle to get it started.

Thanks again for all the input.

[ChampioNman]

OK so I'm basing this on your description, I'm thinking you have a concealed side mount control. Seeing your motor doesn't have QUICK start, you should advance your throttle slightly by (depending on your shift handle) either push in on the center button and moving the throttle forward a bit or pull out on the handle and advance the throttle slightly. This will advance your timing a bit and keep the motor in neutral. Then push in on the key while cranking after priming the fuel system. You can also remove the cowl, flip the red lever on the primer solenoid and give the bulb a few pumps. This will bypass the primer solenoid and inject the fuel oil mix into the back side of the carbs and then you can flip the lever back to normal and then crank it without pushing in on the key. Once if busts off you can use the key to "feather the motor" until it gets to operating temperature.

[smokeeater163]

Which direction should the red lever be facing? Towards the carbs or away?
Also, yes I push in the center button and push the throttle forward as you mentioned in your reply. I'm at work today, but planned on digging in to it tomorrow. As you are very knowledgeable on these motors, is there anything that I should make sure to check so I don't go digging to deep right off the bat? Should I see fuel being sprayed into the carbs as I push the key in? I hear the solenoid clicking, but didn't see any fuel being sprayed.

[ChampioNman]

Normal position is the point of the lever pointing straight down. If you turn it 90* the auto function goes away and as you pump the bulb the fuel is injected behind the carbs and into the intake. You won't see fuel as the throttle plates will be closed. You may see fuel if you open the plates up, turn the lever to 90* away from the body and prime the bulb.

[smokeeater163]

Alright...here is what I have done today and it started right up and purred like a kitten.

Pic #1 is the red lever on the fuel solenoid facing the carbs (how I think it has always been) and would not start. I flipped the red lever 90* to face away from the carbs (pic #2) and squeezed the primer bulb and it started right up easier than it ever has in the past. After starting and running for a minute or so, I flipped it back towards the carbs and it stayed running.

My question now is simply, what direction should it be facing? And if what I did was bypass the solenoid and manually prime the carbs, does this mean my primer solenoid is faulty?

Pic 1
Pic 2

[smokeeater163]

Also, the plugs are supposed to be gaped at 30, but I gaped them at 35 the other day (I was guessing at the time). Will this cause problems anywhere?

[ChampioNman]

You are a bit past 90* on the second picture. The first picture is the correct position for auto (push key in) operation. Can you possibly remove the solenoid from the clamp so I can see your hose routing? Yes .030" is the correct gap for your plugs.

[smokeeater163]

Thanks for the information and I will pull the solenoid out of the bracket Saturday and post a pic. The 2nd pic of the solenoid is actually under rotated. It will not turn a full 90* in that direction. Will that cause issues? Sorry for the delayed responses I've been working a ton of overtime and haven't had the chance to work on it much. Thanks again and I'll update it Saturday.

[ChampioNman]

The second picture is almost 180* from the normal position.