Removing Trolling Motor Mount Stainless Bolts...Help

[FloridaFlyer]

I am helping a friend remove his Maxuum trolling motor. Three of six of the hardest bolts to reach are either cross threaded or the stainless has galled together. I figure they are galled together. They WILL NOT come loose. I guess drilling them is the best way to remove them but I don't know about drilling or cutting stainless bolts.....What is the best way to remove these bolts and nuts. They are the big screws holding the main mount to the boat deck. They are big Phillips head stainless bolts about 1/4 inch and the nuts are stainless also with the nylon rings on the bottom.... You can't get to or see anything under there.

Will it take a special drill bit???? I figure it does. The way the mount is made, it is hard to get anything on the bolt head because the mount frame is so close or I might could twist and break them..... It very awkward. Any help would be appreciated. I have never dealt with much stainless and might could get under the mount to saw the bolt but it might scratch the boat. I am not sure what to do. I also figured the Phillips head screwdriver slots in the head will break the drill bit and not sure what will saw or drill stainless anyway.... Thanks for the advice.

[Bill Reynolds]

Your best bet is drill out the head of the screw. Stainless is hard so if possible you need at a minimum split point cobalt drills (carbide is better but hard to come by). Start with about 3/16 and only drill to about the depth of the head - then graduate up to 5/16 and drill to the same depth - keep increasing in size until the head of the screw breaks off the shaft - your objective is to break off the head, not drill out the screw. Knock the screw through with a punch. Run the drill on slow speed to prevent work hardening the screw head and burning the point of the drill bit.
When you remount, use stainless steel socket head cap screws and brass lock nuts.

[fishnfireman]

^^ what he said^^
If there's room-- a dremel tool with a cut off blade will cut/grind the head off.
Anytime you use stainless on stainless --- Run the nut all the way up and down the threads in a vice. It does not take much of an imperfection to cause major issues.

[MindenSkeeter]

At least try soaking with PB Blaster first. I have broken free some nasty stuff with it. Let it soak overnight. Nothing to lose!

[Casslaw]

As usual, Mr. Reynolds knows all! Are you sure you can’t fit a small person in the front bow compartment to see where the bolts go? I have always found it easier to remove a nut than unscrew it.

[Jeff Hahn]

The nuts on the MK trolling motor on my last Ranger were galled badly. I finally got them all off. When I reinstalled them, I put some Never Seize on the bolts and didn't have a problem getting the nuts off the next time.

[billnorman1]

I'd avoid drilling the heads off until I absolutely had to. Pound a #2 or #3 Philips head bit, the largest that will fit, into the screw head with a hammer, hold it with a 1/4 inch 6 point socket and push down hard. Use a breaker bar not a ratchet if you have one. Get under the front deck and turn the nuts, remember you are turning them in a tightening direction as viewed from above. Tie a string around your wrench so if you drop it you can find it. If somebody tightened them, you can loosen them.
Do not try to turn the screw heads there isn't enough metal to grip, but you may be able to hold them.

[Marshfly]

If somebody tightened them, you can loosen them.

Not remotely always the case. I have snapped galled stainless bolts quite a few times before the nut even thought about loosening.

[fishnfireman]

Get under the front deck and turn the nuts Do not try to turn the screw heads there isn't enough metal to grip,

Did we read the OP ?

.

The way the mount is made, it is hard to get anything on the bolt head because the mount frame is so close or I might could twist and break them..

[billnorman1]

Believe me I read that. If someone got a nut tightened it can be loosened. Maybe he doesn't have good enough tools or skills but they will come off.

[TrackerPro16]

Believe me I read that. If someone got a nut tightened it can be loosened. Maybe he doesn't have good enough tools or skills but they will come off.

No. Not with stainless (and other exotic metals) when it galls and welds to itself. The more you try and move it the worse it gets. Heat can help or make it worse.
If it was a hex bolt head I would say just snap it off and drive it out. Might try that anyway if you can get a good grip on the phillips head. Just a touch of valve lapping compound on it helps to hold it from slipping.
I worked in a pump shop that did sewer and commercial fishing boat pumps and did a LOT of frozen stainless hardware. If we had to drill one out we drilled with regular bits but you have to go slower speed and use cutting lube. Keep it cool. If it spins fast it will instantly burn the edges up. We found the price difference was not worth it as they both go away pretty quickly.

[alanhore]

+1 See it every day where I work. Always use never seize is my advice when putting ss parts together.

Not remotely always the case. I have snapped galled stainless bolts quite a few times before the nut even thought about loosening.

[billnorman1]

There has been an influx of Chinese hardware since the 1980's. These locking nylon inserts was made without accurate dimensioning of the locking device, as well as the nuts and bolts weren't the proper Brinell hardness. Some were infused into my factory on a U.S.Government contract on the sly by a subcontractor. The bolts would snap off from the act of tightening them the first time.
Stainless steel isn't always hard. One should never use soft metals with other soft metals in nuts and bolts. This can also lead to galling and binding up.

Anyhow, they're probably 1/4 inch or 5/16" hardware. If I was drilling out a Philips head countersunk screw I would be wary of using small bits, lest they get caught in the flutes of the screw head and snap off.

Personally I have had my hands cut upand bleeding and stuck with fiberglass shards working under the bow caps and have sworn a lot but persevered. I have good 1/4 inch socket sets and ratcheting box wrenches, but not everyone has.

Best of luck, don't give up you can do it.

[FloridaFlyer]

Well, my friend had to work this weekend and we were very frustrated with this so we pulled off the job for a couple of days. We ordered the cobalt drills to drill the heads off. Another thing that was recommended elsewhere was to get a blade for his oscillating tool and cut them off under the head. If I could get a vise grip on the head and a deep socket on the nut, I think I could snap them off. But this mount just does not offer much room and the bolts are too long for a deep socket.....but I think we have it under control now and thanks for the help.

We used the ratchet box wrenches too....but were so stuck they would not budge them. They might as well be welded. They were either installed at the factory or by a dealer. I have worked with tools and am a fair mechanic, but don't have a lot of experience with stainless and it is so hard of a metal that I wanted some advice. Thank you.

[Bill Reynolds]

I Hope this works out for you. The following link is to a PDF on my cloud drive that principally shows a low budget lift assist for a Minn Kota MAXXUM but the last page contAins tips to tighten up and quieten the mount. Just thought you would find it helpful.
https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...YAt5c9rlVLAZsF