Is there any documentation about how long a fully charged deep cycle battery should last if you run your trolling motor on high continuously? I sometimes fish in a way that I have it on high most of the time, and after about 4 hours if the wind is blowing at all, I can't move forward and even go backwards sometimes.
It’s a simple mathematical equation based on the amperage draw your trolling motor has at different speeds matched with the specs of your battery...I however suck at math!
Someone will chime in shortly as we have some very smart people when it comes to batteries and electrical current.
It will be helpful to them to let us know what trolling motor, boat and battery we are dealing with.
2006 Triton SP-185, 2006 Evinrude Etec 90, PowerTech NRS3, Garmin Echomap Plus 73CV & 93SV
Capacity for deep cycle batteries is expressed in Reserve Capacity (RC). For example a battery rated as RC200 will run for 200 minutes at 25 amp continuous draw before the battery voltage drops to 10.5 volts. A battery is considered to be fully discharged at 10.5 volts.
Placing two RC200 batteries in series to get 24 volts will not double the reserve capacity, it will still be RC200.
I don’t know about Motorguide, but I think Minn Kota shows amp draw at 100% for each of their motors on their website.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
This link will shed more light on the subject.
https://www.trollingmotors.net/blogs...motor-run-time
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
The most important thing to realize is that the first few times you use it, the capacity is a little less than the rated capacity, then when it reaches the rated capacity, every time you use it the capacity gets a little less. You’d never even get close to an estimate without extensive monitoring of the battery use.Originally Posted by johnmr12
Even the largest 31 would have a little less than 2 hour run time on a typical TM when new running a motor on high constantly.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
I will say this---- (not long enough)
Blew a motor some years back and tried to make it back to the ramp with a 24 volt 80 lb thrust MinnKota ..
Didn't get there !!
Most modern motors run a DC chopper circuit which it makes in the circuit board. If operated on any speed except high it is economized. On high, the motors use straight battery power and are most inefficient. If used on high they don't actually blow up of course but they tend to melt down the weakest part of the circuit, which is from the plug to the motor. Trolling motor wiring is #10 gauge where the boats it's usually #6, which is much heavier.I will say this---- (not long enough)
Blew a motor some years back and tried to make it back to the ramp with a 24 volt 80 lb thrust MinnKota ..
Didn't get there !!
Anyhow, once you use all the power in your batteries, they can easily be permanently damaged, especially if used on the high setting.
You either need better larger batteries, a bigger thrust motor and better batteries or a change in trolling motor use habit.
Thanks for the tutorial, all good info!!
Just not applicable to the reference of mine that you quoted.
I" blew" the outboard motor and was trying to get back to the dock with the trolling motor on high -- the trolling motor did not blow up nor did it melt the 10 gauge wiring at the foot pedal. It didn't even trip the breaker -- it just ran out of batteries.
I had the better larger batteries and they worked fine under my normal fishing conditions. The event I described will (hopefully) never repeat.
I fish a lot on electric motor only lakes. I run my electric motor on full speed a lot. i have 8 awg from the back of a 16' boat to a plug and then the 10 awg wire from the motor goes to the plug. Nothing over heats or even gets warm after a 30 minute or 60 minute run. you just need to have good connections and proper wire size for the distance and current draw.
What size motor are you running?
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. I was going to say you need excellent connections if you're pumping 55 amps through 10 gauge wire and some spade connections. Many older high wattage/high thrust like 80 pound plus motors will find a weakness if run on high for an extended period of time.
Not sure why this came up as the OP already stated he is running the TM hard for 4 hrs and has no problem with wiring, just lacks battery stamina.
Not doubting any of the above responses but I'll give a real world example.
Had some outboard issues last weekend. Ran a 36v 112lb Motorguide Great White at 100% for around an hour to get back to the ramp.
The armature was warm to the touch but nothing melted, smoked, burst into flames, etc. Averaged 4.2mph with the current, dropped to 2.8mph in the cove (no current) and this was after 5 hours of fishing.
The old battery killer. I'll troll across the river at 100% or jump sections on the TM instead of stowing and firing up the big motor. It's usually my hydration break and is much quieter.
I'll also run 100% when the grass gets thick and chop my way through or when it gets to shallow and I have to drag the boat through mud etc.
Point is, there is no reason to shy away from 100% power on the TM as long as your wiring and install job are up to par.
Sounds like your setup is fine but you may need to switch to bigger batteries. Group 31AGM with 220 reserve capacity may be in order. Sams Club sells duracells (DEKA) for around $180 each. Batteries+ has X2 AGM and if you can swing them, Odessey AGM make some with higher RC.
Another idea.
Instead of fighting against the current trolling up stream, keep the TM on steady (constant on) but reduce power enough you slowly drift backwards. You still cast up current and let your bait work down towards you but without killing your batteries. Think backing down the river.
Small adjustments allow you to stay in one spot or drift faster, etc while maintaining control and still being able to work the spots you want.
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