Thoughts on changing setup Charging, Powering Accesories, etc.

[adurbin]

I'm in a bit of a dilemma in changing my current set up pertaining to batteries and charging.

Current setup:

2008 Triton TR-196
Mercury 200 Optimax


36v Trolling motor - 3 bank charger ran to all 3 of those batteries
Cranking battery that also powers accessories (HDS 9 Gen 3 at console, HDS 7 at bow) - no charger hooked to this battery.

I really don't like the idea of the accessories running off the cranking battery. I want to know that my outboard is going to fire right up after a long day of fishing/graphing.

Do I:

Get a 4 bank charger and not worry about the accessories running off of the cranking battery?

Add an additional battery for accessories only and add an additional 2 bank charger to charge cranking battery and accessory battery?

Anybody running a 5 battery set up?

[dnjr]

I run 4 batteries with a four bank charger. I have also installed a jump switch in case I wear down the crank battery. Have not had to use the switch. Cost of switch and cabling less than a hundo. Available from Ranger Parts or a Perko switch and cables from any auto parts store. See maintanance thread in the ranger forum, Carlos H has a post on this exact setup with pictures and everything on how to complete this task.

[adurbin]

I run 4 batteries with a four bank charger. I have also installed a jump switch in case I wear down the crank battery. Have not had to use the switch. Cost of switch and cabling less than a hundo. Available from Ranger Parts or a Perko switch and cables from any auto parts store. See maintanance thread in the ranger forum, Carlos H has a post on this exact setup with pictures and everything on how to complete this task.

Thanks! I'll check that out!

[squib]

Just get a jump starter and carry it in the boat. You can then use it on your tow vehicle if you need. Mine is not much bigger than the Ultrex remote. Paid about $90 for it and it can serve multiple purposes. I would not run 5 batteries, but I would get a 4-bank charger.

[catdude28]

I'm in a bit of a dilemma in changing my current set up pertaining to batteries and charging.


Do I:

Get a 4 bank charger and not worry about the accessories running off of the cranking battery?

That is what I would do. A high quality 31 series AGM (Northstar/X2 or Odyssey), and a high quality 4 bank charger (Dual Pro Sportsmen or Pro Series), and you should be worry free. This is a common set up with an Opti and accessories.

[adurbin]

Thanks!

[DrewFlu33]

4 bank charger in mine, but that's at least partly because my outboard has a stator that barely maintains the cranking battery while it's running - no charging of it happening. In any case, I'd still want to stick my cranking battery on a charger as most every boat has a parasitic draw somewhere. I suppose a master power switch helps with that a bit. Even still, I want my battery fully charged, and that's likely not always going to happen if you're relying on the outboard alternator unless you always run it for a while before trailering. A high quality battery goes without saying.

Keeping in mind that my motor, for all intents and purposes, does not charge my cranking battery when I run around, I'm going on my third year with my cranking battery without an issue. I run exactly the same graphs as you, and have run two 800 gph livewell pumps for what amounts to the entirety of an 8 hour tournament on many occasions without the first issue. Add to this a point 1 antenna, NMEA 2000 network, occasionally nav lights (old, non LED) and other incidentals like a phone charger. My battery is a commercial one intended for use in trucks and buses and, though it has a lot of cranking amps, the reserve capacity is low compared to the high end AGMs available out there (Mercury recommends no AGMs with stators).

What I'm getting at is that despite not having an alternator and not having the best battery for the job, I've had zero problems.

I do carry a lithium jump starter I grabbed for cheap off of Amazon. It's saved me the one time I needed it (when my previous cranking battery bit it), and past that it's an awesome thing to take along as a power supply for charging phones or whatever while on trips off the grid. I've used it on long ice fishing trips and on canoe trips in the Boundary Waters while using my phone as a GPS and for lake maps on the lakes that have been mapped.

I know some guys who run 5 battery setups, but I honestly believe it's just overkill unless you were running 4 12 inch graphs or something. Charging the cranking battery and maybe grabbing a jump starter should help to ease your mind, though!

[JR19]

Everything except the trolling motor needs to be on the cranking battery. All batteries should have a charger bank hooked to it. A good cranking battery for your motor needs to have at least 1000 cranking amps BUT DO NOT FORGET you need 200 minutes of reserve run time so you still have sufficient power after running a lot of accessories when the big motor is off. Most people rarely look at battery specifications, they just look at group size. For a lack of a better word cranking amps is "how hot" your battery is and reserve is how much "storage" you have.

[adurbin]

Thank you all. I just ordered the Minn Kota Precision 4 bank charger. I'd love to have the dual pro, but I can't justify spending the 500 bucks on the charger (wife's call, lol).

[JR19]

Thank you all. I just ordered the Minn Kota Precision 4 bank charger. I'd love to have the dual pro, but I can't justify spending the 500 bucks on the charger (wife's call, lol).

good move...now how many reserve minute does your cranking battery have?

[adurbin]

good move...now how many reserve minute does your cranking battery have?

I'm not sure. The battery was on the boat when I purchased it, and I wasn't able to find a label stating the specs. A new battery will be in the works soon. One that I know what the specs are.

[JR19]

I have a couple battery suggestions and you might think they seem like overkill but when it comes to a boat cranking battery the last thing you want is to be stranded on the water.

http://www.tristatebattery.com/8a31d...ry-p-1356.html

https://www.remybattery.com/northsta...m-battery.html

The links I posted are just something that came up doing a quick google search. If you shop around you might find a better price.


I am on my 4th season running the Deka 8A 31 DTM Intimidator and the battery is still strong. If I am fishing a tournament I will often have on two livewell pumps and one GPS sonar combo running, plus I occasionally cycle my Talons. I sometimes do this for 2-3 hours without starting my big motor and it always turns right over when the time comes to fire it up.

As for the Northstar battery I call it a beast. It's pretty much at the top of the food chain when it comes to cranking amps and reserve run time. With high power and high reserve comes a high price tag. This is pretty much the case with any AGM battery but the Northstar is the one with the highest specs so it also has the highest price tag. However it's been my experience that all AGM cranking batteries typically last 5-6 years whereas I only get 3-4 out of of a lead acid battery. The extra 2-3 years you get kind of makes the price in the long run close to a lead acid battery. It's just that up front cost that hurts.

I keep a set of jumper cables in my boat. Thankfully I have never had to use them but they are there in case I do need them. Someone previously mentioned a jump start switch. If your not familiar with them it's basically jumper cables that are hardwired from one trolling motor battery to your cranking battery. It has a selector switch you flip to "jump" the cranking battery. The switch is always off and only gets flipped on when/if you need a jump. They do work but a set of jumper cables does the same thing. Really a jump switch is just a convenience thing verses dragging out jumper cables.

[adurbin]

I have a couple battery suggestions and you might think they seem like overkill but when it comes to a boat cranking battery the last thing you want is to be stranded on the water.

http://www.tristatebattery.com/8a31d...ry-p-1356.html

https://www.remybattery.com/northsta...m-battery.html

The links I posted are just something that came up doing a quick google search. If you shop around you might find a better price.


I am on my 4th season running the Deka 8A 31 DTM Intimidator and the battery is still strong. If I am fishing a tournament I will often have on two livewell pumps and one GPS sonar combo running, plus I occasionally cycle my Talons. I sometimes do this for 2-3 hours without starting my big motor and it always turns right over when the time comes to fire it up.

As for the Northstar battery I call it a beast. It's pretty much at the top of the food chain when it comes to cranking amps and reserve run time. With high power and high reserve comes a high price tag. This is pretty much the case with any AGM battery but the Northstar is the one with the highest specs so it also has the highest price tag. However it's been my experience that all AGM cranking batteries typically last 5-6 years whereas I only get 3-4 out of of a lead acid battery. The extra 2-3 years you get kind of makes the price in the long run close to a lead acid battery. It's just that up front cost that hurts.

I keep a set of jumper cables in my boat. Thankfully I have never had to use them but they are there in case I do need them. Someone previously mentioned a jump start switch. If your not familiar with them it's basically jumper cables that are hardwired from one trolling motor battery to your cranking battery. It has a selector switch you flip to "jump" the cranking battery. The switch is always off and only gets flipped on when/if you need a jump. They do work but a set of jumper cables does the same thing. Really a jump switch is just a convenience thing verses dragging out jumper cables.

I really appreciate the extra help. I'm going to order a "jump box" in the next couple of weeks to keep on hand.

[DrewFlu33]

That Deka can be had cheaper at Sam's or Batteries Plus under the Duracell brand name. https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durace...lp_product_1_1

The group 31 Northstar, X2 Power from Batteries Plus, or Odyssey are just about the baddest batteries out there for this purpose though.

[adurbin]

That Deka can be had cheaper at Sam's or Batteries Plus under the Duracell brand name. https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durace...lp_product_1_1

The group 31 Northstar, X2 Power from Batteries Plus, or Odyssey are just about the baddest batteries out there for this purpose though.

This is good to know. Thanks!

[wmitch2]

[QUOTE=DrewFlu33;9736656]That Deka can be had cheaper at Sam's or Batteries Plus under the Duracell brand name. https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durace...lp_product_1_1

^^^ This for the batteries, good on the 4-bank charger. You might also look into this......Troll Bridge from Yandina. It will charge your TM batteries as you run the big motor and "borrow" power from the TM batteries if your start battery is weak. I've gone 3 days of hard fishing on Clear Lake in Ca and not once plugged in the charger !!

http://www.yandina.com/troll24info.htm

[catdude28]

With an Opti and accessories, it is somewhat of a gamble with the Deka/Duracell 8A31 AGM. That battery has only 800 cca, and minimum recommended cca just to crank an Opti are 800, leaving no leeway for accessories. Ideally, at least 950 cca are required. Some have done fine with it for cranking their Opti and running all of their accessories and, others have not.

I would go for the Northstar/X2 or the Odyssey. Your new charger will do well with either one. Both pricey, but with specs far exceeding minimum, and should provide peace of mind.