Curious for those running this hull. I’m in the process of picking up a used 2014 Ranger Z119C with a 225 ETEC HO and I need to do full electronics package. Looking to add talons so I’m thinking about putting on a jack plate to mount them off. Any recommendations for setback? Perks to hydraulic/fixed? Also, if I only do a 4”-6” will I be able to mount a mega transducer on the bottom and clear everything? Thanks for the help, I have a feeling this is going to be a sweet ride
Wouldn't a 2014 Z119 already have a standard equipment 10" manual Slidemaster ?
2013 Ranger Z519 / 225 Mercury Pro XS
the answer to your question is no. It was a 150 dollar option so most dealers ordered with one but some didn’t.Originally Posted by Michael49
Not sure about standard but this boat never had one.
I run the same hull (Z519) with a 225 G2. On the subject of jack plates, the only advantage I see to hydraulic is if you consistently run very big water...or extremely shallow water. In very big water, you can use a hydraulic plate to go lower than your normal setting and help to keep the bounce down. Also keep the prop in the water if you are trying to run fast in tall waves and don’t have a good 4 blade prop. In extremely shallow water, you can raise the motor vertically without trimming out a lot, which keeps the nose down and helps to keep the back end from digging if you try to idle fast. With an extremely high setting, you also can get on plane in skinnier water than you could with a fixed jack plate (unless of course you had that plate manually set very high).
Now the downside: hydraulic plates cost much more, plus they have more parts to break or come loose, plus they weigh more. On a 119, if you mount dual poles to a hydraulic plate, that’s a lot of weight added to your stern, which can inhibit hole shot and cause backwash problems coming off plane. The “standard” setback for a 119 is 10 inches, but there wouldn’t be much performance difference with an 8-inch plate, and not even a huge difference with a 6-inch plate. Unless of course you are that guy who wants every .2 of a mile per hour from his rig. Even understanding that you might be using a plate simply to mount electronics, imo a 4-inch plate would be a waste. Smaller plates aren’t significantly cheaper than larger, and an 8 or 10 inch plate would mount your electronics and give you a small performance boost.
John Clark — Findlay, Ohio
I'd have to look but I believe the Z519c was standard with a JP, Z119 it was an option I'm thinking. If you're already going to buy a JP then why not just get a hydraulic, more advantages than disadvantages. I have a Bob's hydraulic and love being able to raise it even if I'm just beaching the boat or raising it some to load it.
All very good information, I’ve never had a boat with a JP and I was just thinking if I have to pull the motor either way to add anchors it only makes sense to add a plate and be able to mount the transducer also. I am concerned about the weight when you add two talons, plate, full load, etc. I’m not the guy that needs to be the fastest boat on the water but I stepped up from a 185VS hoping for better performance with a “tournament load” on this platform. Thanks for the input!!
This hull comes standard WITHOUT a jack plate. A 10" plate is recommended and is optional. I have a 2015 Z119C and I added the manual plate. If I had it to do over, I would get the hydraulic plate.
2015/Z119C with Mercury Pro XS 225/Humminbird Solix 10 (Bow)/Humminbird Solix 10 & Lowrance HDS 9Touch (console)/112 Ultrex with iPilot Link (MegaDownscan built in)/2019 Toyota Tundra 5.7 Liter 4 X 4 SR5 TRD
2014 Z119c came standard with a 10" JP, 6" if the motor is a V6 Verado. You could order without if you had limited length in the garage.
Just looked at my 2014 Ranger catolog.
Man this was a rig I wanted. There's a real nice one on Facebook, all black at a really good price.
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
I’ve had my eye out for a good price on one for a while and just made a deal today, very excited! Great balance of size, power, and mobility IMO
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
Love my '16 Z119!
Mine did come with the 10" setback manual. Supposedly they are 'dogs' if you don't get the setback plate. Problem is I get a tsunami everytime I come off place with two power poles, it is a learned skill to step on it right before it settles to beat the wave.
So you guys that have this boat, how’s your performance with or without the jack plate? Do you have talons or poles? Testing it out I thought the hole shot was a little slow but after it tips the motor/boat is insane!! The whole reason I was looking at a plate was really just as a mounting location for talons and SI ducer, will the plate really help with hole shot? Will the extra weight just cancel everything out?
Bear with me, the jack plate concept is new to me, I’m coming from a older 185VS with 150hp and you just pushed the throttle to go fast and let off to slow down
I have the G2 now, and hole shot/acceleration is never an issue with a G2. However, I also had a Z119 from 2011-2014 with a G1 Evinrude, and it was never slow to plane and did not have a jack plate. It did not have poles, however, and the right prop can make a huge difference in planing time. Seems like you are looking at multiple issues that might conflict. The weight of a manual plate is somewhat negligible in terms of affecting planing speed. And yes, with the exact right setup (including prop), a jack plate can help planing speed...to a degree. But there is only so much stern weight any boat can handle without losing performance. Also, with the right prop (definitely thinking quality 4-blade here), planing speed of that rig without a jack plate can be quite good. My 2011 Z119 without a plate planned out in less than 4 seconds, but again, no poles either, and “only” 3 batteries.So you guys that have this boat, how’s your performance with or without the jack plate? Do you have talons or poles? Testing it out I thought the hole shot was a little slow but after it tips the motor/boat is insane!! The whole reason I was looking at a plate was really just as a mounting location for talons and SI ducer, will the plate really help with hole shot? Will the extra weight just cancel everything out?
Bear with me, the jack plate concept is new to me, I’m coming from a older 185VS with 150hp and you just pushed the throttle to go fast and let off to slow down
John Clark — Findlay, Ohio
thanks for the info, I’m thinking I might just run it for a season and just see how everything fishes and drives. I need to get a little water time this fall, this is going to be a long winter already
I can’t answer all of your questions as I have a 16 Z119c with a 225HO G2.
First off, I really do like this boat. The G2 can only have a 4” setback so that’s what I have. I’ve got 1 8 foot talon and enjoy it for the most part. Went with the 8 footer because I also ordered an ultrex so it takes care of deeper stuff. Now... I don’t exactly love having to position the boat so it doesn’t spin but I can’t complain.
The reason I really wanted to post here is, you can absolutely use a transducer sheild and Saver to mount to a jackplate or, you can do like I did and install a thru Hull mega SI transducer. When I decided to go this way, I was hesitant to put a hole in my Hull but decided to go with it because I’ve seen too many transducers get ripped off the back of the boat. This way, it’s mounted up out of the way.
Good information, I was looking at the thru hull option. Do you have it towards the center of the boat in the flat space under where the motor is mounted? That step between the back and the bottom?
Just a question, isn’t there a lot of turbulence here as the water comes up from the bottom of the hull? My dealer orders new boats this way from Ranger, I was just curious.
Thanks
Just easier to send you a pic. Lol
Truth be told, I don’t notice any turbulence issues but you aren’t really using SI at high speeds. I also have the shoot thru 2d transducer that works up to a certain point.
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